Valvoline Synpower 20w50 for Harley TC

[recoil]

I hate to add another oil thread but Im not sure if Im understanding this right.
I came across a great deal at local discount auto parts. 31 bucks for 5 qts of oil (valvoline synpower 20w50) and a k&n oil filter for street glide.

My understanding was that any 20w50 type car oil would be good whether syn or dino. The only difference between the regular oil and cycle specific oil was if your using on a bike in which engine shares oil with wet clutch.

I found lots of posts supporting mobil 1 vtwin 20w50 and even valvoline vr1 racing 20w50 dino or synthetic. But pretty much no posts for synpower. So now Im a bit nervous.

I contacted valvoline and they responded with the following:
"Valvoline Synpower 20W-50 will work fine in the motor, chain case, and transmission. The 4 Stroke Motorcycle Oil is good for Japanese bikes with a wet clutch that is lubed by engine oil. The Motorcycle oil will work fine in a Harley Davidson but the Synpower Full Synthetic will provide better engine protection and will run cooler."

and in comparing mobil 1 vtwin to synpower it seems synpower is a better oil on paper. Am I reading this correctly? Would like some feedback on this if this horse has not been beaten to death already. Thanks in advance.


Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils V-Twin Valvoline Synpower
Engine/Application Type 4-Cycle CAR - LIGHT TRUCK
SAE Grade 20W-50 20w50
Service Classification API SJ,CF API SN/SM/CF
Density, 0.87 7.2
Flash Point, °C 214 230
Pour Point,°C -42 -33
Kinematic Viscosity@ 40°C 172.3 139
Kinematic Viscosity@ 100°C 20.8 19
Viscosity Index 142 155
Cold Cranking, cP 7,500 @ -15°C 4700 @-15
Pumping, cP 14,000 @ -20°C 10,100 @-20

 

[Ramblejam]

Originally Posted By: recoil
The only difference between the regular oil and cycle specific oil was if your using on a bike in which engine shares oil with wet clutch.


That's a common misconception. Take a look:

https://valvoline.com/pdf/synpower.pdf
https://valvoline.com/pdf/4_stroke_synthetic.pdf

SynPower 20w-50:
Zinc/Phosphorus, wt.% 0.084/0.077

4-Stroke Synthetic:
Zinc/Phosphorus, wt.% 0.112/0.100

Same story with Mobil 1:

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.ashx

Mobil 1 15w-50: 1200P/1300Zn
V-Twin 20w-50: 1600P/1750Zn

In other word, different additive package for different applications (auto vs. motorcycle). Not the same thing.

 

[recoil]

On the Synpower that looks like a very miniscule percentage...will that small fraction really make that much difference?

I can see the Mobile looks like a big difference with 400 and 450, but the Valvoline is .023 difference. ???

 

[ARCOgraphite]

ZDP gets used up over time and stress.
Better to add as you go along and it gets used up.

The big deal is with FM and shared sump wet clutch chatter/grab slip issues. Many FM you cant see in the analysis as modern oils are invisible to std VOA. On a near stock AC engine anything of the correct weight HD SN oil will do. Now what you like is another thing. Its hard to beat the initial buttery feel of big moly and zinc - until the rings get all jammed up

 

[recoil]

SO is it safe to say that the only difference between auto oil and cycle specific oil is the additive package?

and if thats the case can an additive package be added to oil periodically? and if so how would you know what would be enough and what would be too much?

I guess adding additive packages to oil periodically kind of defeats the purpose of getting a deal on auto syn oil.

 

[Robenstein]

If you want to use an Automotive Valvoline 20w50 in your Twin Cam, then use the VR1 line. It is made for high performance vintage engines that need the extra protection due to having things like flat tappet cams.

The VR1 along with the Kendall GT1 in 20w50 has shown WONDERFUL numbers in used oil analysis results in Harley Twin Cam engines.

 

[MoreCowbellAz]

You'll likely get as many answers as there are users on here, so in advance enjoy the debate that will surely follow. Anyhoo, I tend to be a bit of a naysayer when it comes to magic fluids you need to make a Harley happy, but for sure lots of people run plain ole SynPower and love it, especially in the engine. Personally I'd say your Harley wouldn't care, I wouldn't worry.

In the primary you'll hear all the clutch slippage warnings. In theory, could be. In reality, I bet not. I know I've never experienced it ever. On anything. But who knows, if you do then you'll know. No big deal if you pay attention and swap it as soon as you feel it(which I bet you won't).

Tranny, I bet you could do it there too. There again I think it's a low tech demand and your Harley doesn't care all that much.

All that said, it's also easy enough to wait for the sales of more purpose specific lubes if you feel there's something to be gained. I got in on the $3/qt Valvoline 4T 20w50 Syn deal because it was a better deal than the general PCMO stuff, but not because of all the additive hoo-hah.

Before I get flamed, I admittedly am an outlier when it comes to special treatment needed to be nice to your Harley innards. It's not the space shuttle.

 

[alarmguy]

Your fine with the synpower, don't over think it. It carries the same ratings as the other oils mentioned and Valvoline is the most under rated oil in these forums.
You don't say what year your bike is but if you have a late model HD, they only recommend diesel oil ch4 or higher if not using their oil. So it's up to you, if you follow the manual for late model touring bikes or not, if you have one, if not, use the syn power and no reason to give it any more thought over the other oils.

It is true also by what Robenstein said above ... But again, you won't damage your engine using what you have.

 

[DoubleWasp]

VR1 is one of the most shear resistant oils out there, from testing. That's why I went back to it recently, especially for my bikes. VR1 just doesn't care that it's in a shear monster engine. Never heard of such a thing.

I cant prove it yet, but I think it's also extremely resistant to fuel washout. I've emptied half a can of carb and brake cleaner into my funnels trying to clean the VR1 out, and it doesn't go away without that combined with aggressive wiping.

 

[Robenstein]

Of course in a Twin Cam harley, you really don't have to worry about shear. You just need an oil that seems to handle the heat well. Especially if you have a lean running stock twin cam.