I have read that the parameters on GM's Oil Life Monitor is 1 year or 7500 miles for oil changes...that doesn't seem to be the case if your numbers are correct...
Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 (Gonna Take a Chance)
- Thread starter mco30mco
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I wonder if your PCV was sludged up in the valve cover like mine was. I had chunks of sludge in there when I replaced the valve cover a little over 200k miles, but it appeared to have much less varnish than yours. Do you ever get blue smoke on startup? Mine was sucking oil into the intake until I installed a catch can which I had to empty daily. Only used 1-2 qts per 3k miles but after replacing the valve cover it uses almost zero and catch can needs emptied once per oil change. At 254k miles now, some time this summer I'll pull both valve covers to inspect.
Hopefully it will be a while before I have to do that pickup tube o ring but I just replaced the oil pressure sender that died a few months ago so I can keep on eye on it. Once I get home from vacation (father in law brought my truck home from the shop) I will hopefully see that it still has 34 psi oil pressure.
If it still needs some cleaning I may switch to HPL for a bit if I can order some with a nearby member. Currently I'm using m1 0w40 fs.
I just checked, you’re right it is finally on Wally’s website for me as well. Like you 39.99, but it says “Sold and shipped by Valvoline”. That explains the high price it’s the same as Valvoline’s site.
If R&P is only going to be sold at auto parts stores and Valvoline direct it is going to be another sales flop no matter how good it is. Put some money away for a clearance stash load up.
*Could very well be the case … My 2017 Sonata 2.4L Theta II (now with 58K miles) has received synthetic 5W30 oil since new . In mixed driving it will burn 1 qrt every 4K mile / 6 month OCI . I check the oil level frequently and top off well before the level hits the low mark . By 1,500 miles the oil is dirty (soot) and by 3,000 miles the dipstick can have a bit of fuel smell . Oil level only decreases through the OCI and not increases (to increase would be a sign of fuil dilution) . It will be interesting to see how this engine holds up with my oil maintainence and oil change procedure plus constantly keeping the oil level on the “new and improved” Orange color dipstick holds up ? If weak tension rings , piston skirt coating flaking off or defective bearings / bearing coatings are the culprit of failed Theta II 2.4L GFI engines - then my oil level maintenance and OCI probably won’t make much of a difference .
I wouldn’t say sludged. Gm did release a statement and updated valve covers with a bigger drain hole in the them with this being a huge easy. I have a little smoke at start up every once in a while. It’s definitely coming from that. I need to get the updated valve covers from gm and do it. Just hasn’t been a top priority as of right now. Hpl is definitely great oil. When it comes up to 100k miles on the rebuilt trans I’ll switch it over from amsoil ss to hpl green and change the filter. For off the shelf you can’t go wrong with Mobil 1 esp or fs for off the shelf looking to save a little bit of money. Especially if you don’t do long drains anyway.
After I get everything straight and my daughter gets a little older and things calm down I’ll more than likely switch the truck back over to driven again. It’ll do 10k with ease but I don’t get to that point anyway. The week I did the pick up tube o ring it dropped to 10 at idle and then the lifter ticked off an on. I parked the truck and drove her car the last couple days and tore her apart that weekend. Going down the road oil pressure was low around 35. Now with the pick tube o ring replace oil pressure is back to being perfect again.
although at that low of mileage they probably wouldn't need the engine cleaner ever if using the @High Performance Lubricants oil. Maybe a bottle of Redline Si-1 in the tank occasionally, but that's it.
Absolutely. I’ve seen an engine that used hpl from 20k miles till 200k and it looked like it came right out the machine shop it was so clean.
My PCV was literally plugged with the sludge, causing it to build even more sludge I think.
What was your oil pressure without the failed o ring? Mine is 34 at hot idle in gear and around 50 or high 40s when driving. At least last time I saw it a few months ago. I think the o ring will fail with time more than miles?
Will be interesting to see. My wife has the itch for a new vehicle...her sister got a brand new Sorento and her parents just got a 2018 with the v6. The itch went away after we drove through a couple dealerships and looked at prices. Lol. No rust underneath the Sonata. Just wish I knew if Canadians got the same unlimited mileage warranty on the rod bearings.
The miles is slightly off by about 5k when I had the cluster shipped for warranty repaired and put about 5k on it before getting it back but this is also with using hpl euro 5w40 that’s still currently in it. This after I fixed it. Before that oil pressure was a little low but that from o ring not being that bad. Then it got to the point it couldn’t wait anymore and had to be addressed. To my knowledge this was the original o ring before I changed it.
I didn't notice that part.
Well, if it shows up in-store at that price it is a hard no. The Ep is great and I see no reason to spend the extra dough on R&P, especially since my vehicle is barely a year old and has the build changed every 5,000.GM issued this TSB 10+ yrs ago about oil consumption, poorly designed driverside pvc valve cover, installing afm relief valve deflector, etc:
https://f01.justanswer.com/ebrock63...il+Consumption,+MIL+ON,+Engine+Runs+Rough.pdf
I did it too my 2007 6.2L 5+ yrs ago and no oil consumption since.
There's a new video ( 2/2/24 ) on YouTube by F.B.M. showing V.O.A.s' for the RESTORE + PROTECT 0w-20 + 5w-20 . Installs the R&S 5w-30 in his FORD pickup with over 100,000 miles . He plans to post V.O.A. and U.O.A. for the 5w-30 in following video(s) .
Yeah I need to do it to mine soon
I tried telling him a year ago about there’s more to oil than just addictives and to use a lab that shows oxidation value to help indicate base oils. I was ignored. Now a year later with lake he finally jumps on it after I said something a year ago
I was sure to remind him of that. It’s kinda irritating it was put off as bs and now he wants to jump on it and how arrogant he can be sometimes.
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He does that often, I appreciate the VOA's he has shared before but the dude has too much of an ego and thinks only he is right and everyone else is wrong and if you attempt to call him out on anything he blocks you like on Tiktok.I tried telling him a year ago about there’s more to oil than just addictives and to use a lab that shows oxidation value to help indicate base oils. I was ignored. Now a year later with lake he finally jumps on it after I said something a year ago
I was sure to remind him of that. It’s kinda irritating it was put off as bs and now he wants to jump on it and how arrogant he can be sometimes.
Lake on the other hand knows what he is talking about and has the experience in the oil industry to back it up.
Also videos of U.O.A.s' ( P.U. , MOBIL , AMSOIL , etc. ) and opening new oil filters ( FRAM , etc. ).
I never really watched his UOA videos because while it does give an idea of how an additive pack holds up among a few other things it is also completely vehicle dependent.
His oil filter videos are ok, but he clearly has bias again Mobil 1 oil filters for no genuine reason so I personally prefer WCW for oil filters. But I guess you could say the same thing about me hating Protec and Bosch filters but those are genuine reasons.
I just sent mine away at xmas holidays when we were off work for 2 weeks so I only lost about 500kms luckily. I remember when I first drove this truck years ago for work it had a hair over 40 on the gauge at idle. So at 34 it has lost some. Using torque pro for all my gauges as they were almost all dead by the time I got it rebuilt.
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