Not necessarily. I’ve been running boutique oils for the past 60k miles and when it was on Mobil, Schaeffers, and Valvoline I changed it about every 5-6k miles. Even with the boutique hpl, redline, driven I still changed it before 7500k miles. This motor has 400k miles on her. I took her apart to do an oil pick up tube o ring as well as other gaskets.
Yeah. I wanted to prove a point to the other 2 people that 1 you can be on top of everything and still have varnish as well as the valve covers, etc look like that. Doesn’t mean you didn’t take care of it. I bought the truck with a little under 200k. In 60k miles I’ve been trying to run the best possibly with boutique oils. I just had a newborn daughter tho so I heavily leaning switching back to Mobil 1 fs for the time being. To save money for her and especially since I don’t run it over 7500 miles anyway. The other comment on page 35 is to show the other guy idk where he got his info from but hpl euro has around 775 ppm of moly. I have no clue where he got hpl euro has no moly in it from because every single oil from hpl has a large concentration of high quality additives and a lot of moly.
There it is.
And yet those pics was taken at 400k so what’s your point?
The crud was already there before you got the vehicle. Once it's built up well enough, there isn't an oil on this planet that will clean it up.
Thank you
We both don’t know what it looked it before and I haven’t ran hpl but for about 18k miles so not knowing what it looked like before you can’t say whether it’s cleaning it or not. And I’ve seen proven results from someone else that did take before and after pics running hpl of it in fact cleaning with an engine about as bad as this one.
I'd like to see those, please post a link, pictures, or both. Thank you.
I'm running HPL NO VII 5W-30 in a Hyundai Lambda II 3.3L GDI engine myself. I know what it is. I also have HPL "Overkill" 0W-20, and previously ran PCMO PP 5W-30 and PCMO 5W-40. All good oils.
I simply wanted to run a better quality oil and clean up as much as what I didn’t know about as well to try to keep it clean after it got done doing its job. I also wanted to run it because I’ve seen it doesn’t shear as well as having great uoa results in wear metals so I reached out to David to see what was the best choice for my use. The only reason why I took what I did apart which I already said was to replace some gaskets and replace the oil pick up tube o ring from it being ripped which is a common issue to get my oil pressure back under control. I also said I’ve only been running hpl in it for about 18k miles. After this next oil change it’ll be around 25-26000 total on hpl oils. I currently have their euro 5W40 in it.
Looking at the pictures, it looks like you have some polymerization going on. That's from the previous owner using who-knows-what lubricants and for who-knows-how-long between oil changes. Usually you need either solvents or a decent parts cleaner that uses glass or ceramic beads to get that off. HPL if made of Group III or PAO base oil, Alkylated Naphthalene and Esters co-bases, and of course, their proprietary and improved additive package. See the high Moly ppm count? That's there to create a robust tribo-film while keeping the detergents from washing off the ZDDP. I mean, it's as good as motor oil gets. I doubt there is anything better.
I got my own little two rug rats running around here, so I know the feeling, and the worries that come with a newborn.
I greatly appreciate that information. Yeah I have 1 more oil leak to fix by replacing the oil cooler lines. It’s a very small leak. 1 quart per 3500 miles as of right now. Just hasn’t been a top priority as of right now.Looking at the pictures, it looks like you have some polymerization going on. That's from the previous owner using who-knows-what lubricants and for who-knows-how-long between oil changes. Usually you need either solvents or a decent parts cleaner that uses glass or ceramic beads to get that off. HPL if made of Group III or PAO base oil, Alkylated Naphthalene and Esters co-bases, and of course, their proprietary and improved additive package. See the high Moly ppm count? That's there to create a robust tribo-film while keeping the detergents from washing off the ZDDP. I mean, it's as good as motor oil gets. I doubt there is anything better.
HPL also has excellent solvency, and that's mainly where its cleaning power comes from. The beefed up detergent and dispersant package will carry contaminants to the oil filter and leave them there, for the most part, depending on how good the filter is. What's not left there, is kept in suspension. That's why it is recommended you change your filter every 5000 miles, or even more often than that, depending how dirty your engine is. 5000 is for a clean engine.
All the above being said, you'll have to run HPL for a long time for it to start dissolving what you have there. HPL doesn't contain dangerous solvents. It's very good at what it does, and very safe, but that safety comes at the cost of cleaning slower crud like that. So switching to Mobil 1 might not be the best option if you want to clean that engine up.
Congratulations on your newest addition to your family!
Did they recently make any changes? The voa I showed is from their euro line as well.
Nvm. I read further. They did. I didn’t know about those changes then and I stand corrected. With this info as well I’ll be taking it out and doin an oil change tomorrow.
