Valvoline Restore & Protect 5w-30 (Gonna Take a Chance)

[SubieRubyRoo]

The more we wonder about VRP and the more we debate the "secret sauce" that might be in it, the bigger the disappointment will be when we finally find out that it's just another run of the mill Valvoline motor oil.

Always start with extremely low expectations of mass-marketed products. It will reduce the sting when reality makes itself known.

 

[buster]

Their claim is based on Sequence IIIH testing, which is a high-temperature piston deposit test that runs an engine at high load and rpm with 151°C oil temperature for 100 hours. I'm not sure if this test is very representative of how the oil would perform in normal, less extreme use after 4 oil changes.

One additive that seems to be very effective at preventing high temperature piston deposits is a borated glycelol mono oleyl (BGMO), at an ideal concentration of ~180 ppm boron. A VOA shows that this Valvoline contains 188 ppm boron. Could be a coincidence, but I'm guessing it's the magic sauce in this oil. I suspect that other oils that have ~180 ppm boron like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum use the same stuff.

This table is from a study showed that it kept pistons quite clean in high temperature deposit tests in a diesel engine, but didn't test whether it would actually clean existing deposits.

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The boron would be helpful for preventing but the cleaning could be something else. Really not much to go off of to know one way or the other. Mobil claims they found something unique in the cosmetic industry for their Triple Action. Marketing is marketing but I'd like to know more just out of curiosity. They Premium Blue Restore Gen2 is PAO/V. In that patent they clearly state using high solvency base oils can clean existing deposits in one oil change.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

The boron would be helpful for preventing but the cleaning could be something else. Really not much to go off of to know one way or the other. Mobil claims they found something unique in the cosmetic industry for their Triple Action. Marketing is marketing but I'd like to know more just out of curiosity. The Premium Blue Restore Gen2 is PAO/V. In that patent they clearly state using high solvency base oils can clean existing deposits in one oil change.

I’d say making a “better” PBR could be the next request on the bespoke HPL “asks” list, but Dave has already gone to great lengths to explain why their oils are created the way they are. PBR could likely get away with even higher solvency in the target Cummins engines because diesel engines don’t mess with all the VCM/AFM/DOD/MDS/etc nonsense in gas engines, and in semis, they also have sumps 8-10 times larger than cars do which means any freed contaminants are a much smaller percentage plus diesel filters are much larger physically and less likely to plug. That’s just a guess.

 

[Mainia]

Seeing an engine broken down like that makes me wonder what mine looks like right now... And what it would look like at 400k miles. Because I can't do all that right now, not for a while most likely.

The chances of your Hyundai of that era making it to 400,000 miles is slim to none. I think you would have a better chance winning 3 Mega-Bucks lottery's within 5 years buying 12 tickets a year, before your Hyundai would make 400,000 miles. Just saying.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

The chances of your Hyundai of that era making it to 400,000 miles is slim to none. I think you would have a better chance winning 3 Mega-Bucks lottery's within 5 years buying 12 tickets a year, before your Hyundai would make 400,000 miles. Just saying.

Does it count if it’s accomplished on a chassis dyno like Mobil uses for simulations? If so, I like my odds of winning all those lotto games

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Does it count if it’s accomplished on a chassis dyno like Mobil uses for simulations? If so, I like my odds of winning all those lotto games

Hyundai engineers their vehicles for 100K miles. They leave enough weak spots built in like crappy ATF, cam follower buckets that lose their coating and hardening after a while, spotty ECM/TCM programming, abd the good old owner neglect that they can always count on. That's why you don't see high mileage Hyundais. People who work out the kinks and maintain them get to keep them longer, but I have yet to see a surviving example with 400K miles on the clock.

 

[mr_boring]

Whatever you change regularly.

I don’t over think PCEO products. All of them that meet specs are more than good enough.

Amen

Hyundai engineers their vehicles for 100K miles. They leave enough weak spots built in like crappy ATF, cam follower buckets that lose their coating and hardening after a while, spotty ECM/TCM programming, abd the good old owner neglect that they can always count on. That's why you don't see high mileage Hyundais. People who work out the kinks and maintain them get to keep them longer, but I have yet to see a surviving example with 400K miles on the clock.

I drive F150's and I can't remember the last time I saw one with four hundred thousand miles on it.

I am active on a couple of ford forums and it's rare (like albino pink flamingo rare) that anyone even says "Hey guys, I just hit 300k!

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Amen

I drive F150's and I can't remember the last time I saw one with four hundred thousand miles on it.

I am active on a couple of ford forums and it's rare (like albino pink flamingo rare) that anyone even says "Hey guys, I just hit 300k!

The rarest bird of all is one who went to the Super Bowl in 45% of the 22 seasons he played in the NFL, and won 70% of those. I know because I’ve driven (but not owned) 2 F-150s that were on the far side of 300k, which means there are definitely more Hyundais with 400k than guys with 7 SB rings.

It’s been a long day.

 

[MrBaumTastic]

The chances of your Hyundai of that era making it to 400,000 miles is slim to none. I think you would have a better chance winning 3 Mega-Bucks lottery's within 5 years buying 12 tickets a year, before your Hyundai would make 400,000 miles. Just saying.

We will see about that. Did you have an engine seize on you?

 

[MrBaumTastic]

Hyundai engineers their vehicles for 100K miles. They leave enough weak spots built in like crappy ATF, cam follower buckets that lose their coating and hardening after a while, spotty ECM/TCM programming, abd the good old owner neglect that they can always count on. That's why you don't see high mileage Hyundais. People who work out the kinks and maintain them get to keep them longer, but I have yet to see a surviving example with 400K miles on the clock.

There's one that I've seen on TikTok with over 200k and has no issues. (See below) Consumption I'm not sure about. This creator was actually a big reason I felt like I can run mine into the ground, but that with TLC, it could take a while and that's not a bad thing.

Believe me, I'm no Hyundai fan boy but I take the assumption mine will crap out as many others have (most don't go to the level I do and you can debate the merits of that too if you like) in spite of rigorous routine maintenance as disrespect. Not because I'm right and I know beyond evidence and probability to contrary that it will last forever, but the dismissive nature that I have no shot and that somehow makes me naive, instead of resourceful and determined.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Consumption I'm not sure about.

Have you changed your PCV valve?

 

[MrBaumTastic]

Have you changed your PCV valve?

Replaced at 60k and cleaned often since then.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Replaced at 60k and cleaned often since then.

And you still have consumption issues? How much does it consume?

 

[MrBaumTastic]

And you still have consumption issues? How much does it consume?

I've gotten it to 1qt/1000 going back to April of last year. Before that it was a qt in 500 miles.

This last cleaning with the BG EPR and CRC may have helped. I'm going to double tap with that at my next oil change. I've never known anyone on any forum I've read or been a part of simply change their PCV Valve and suddenly stop burning oil.

As of my last check of the dip stick (yesterday after 500 miles since changing, and posted pictures on another thread) I look to be consuming less oil than before. By now I'd expect to be a half qt low.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

I've gotten it to 1qt/1000 going back to April of last year. Before that it was a qt in 500 miles.

This last cleaning with the BG EPR and CRC may have helped. I'm going to double tap with that at my next oil change. I've never known anyone on any forum I've read or been a part of simply change their PCV Valve and suddenly stop burning oil.

Just trying to take it step by step.

Installing a catch can on that engine is pretty straight forward. If nothing else, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086H9DGQQ

Though I'm pretty sure there are ready make kits from ADD W1 and other manufacturers for the Sonata 2.4L GDI.

Once you have a few miles with the catch can, you can look what accumulates in it, and how much blow by you have. It's far easier to do it this way than guessing. A catch can will also help clean your pistons and intake valves. Slowly all the gunk will burn off. Your oil will also stay cleaner for longer in the crankcase. I don't think Valvoline Restore & Protect will do anything for you.

I think that the oil control rings are gunked up. It's gonna take some work to clean them up. Installing a catch can is very important to keep those rings clean. Oil alone won't solve this problem.

 

[MrBaumTastic]

Just trying to take it step by step.

Installing a catch can on that engine is pretty straight forward. If nothing else, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086H9DGQQ

Though I'm pretty sure there are ready make kits from ADD W1 and other manufacturers for the Sonata 2.4L GDI.

Once you have a few miles with the catch can, you can look what accumulates in it, and how much blow by you have. It's far easier to do it this way than guessing. A catch can will also help clean your pistons and intake valves. Slowly all the gunk will burn off. Your oil will also stay cleaner for longer in the crankcase. I don't think Valvoline Restore & Protect will do anything for you.

I think that the oil control rings are gunked up. It's gonna take some work to clean them up. Installing a catch can is very important to keep those rings clean. Oil alone won't solve this problem.

I definitely want to get an OCC, it's something I've been meaning to do for a while. I appreciate the information. OCCs are a hot topic for back and forth debate on the Hyundai Forums for LF Sonatas.

 

[4WD]

The boron would be helpful for preventing but the cleaning could be something else. Really not much to go off of to know one way or the other. Mobil claims they found something unique in the cosmetic industry for their Triple Action. Marketing is marketing but I'd like to know more just out of curiosity. They Premium Blue Restore Gen2 is PAO/V. In that patent they clearly state using high solvency base oils can clean existing deposits in one oil change.

XOM makes products for that industry …

 

[350Rocket]

Amen

I drive F150's and I can't remember the last time I saw one with four hundred thousand miles on it.

I am active on a couple of ford forums and it's rare (like albino pink flamingo rare) that anyone even says "Hey guys, I just hit 300k!

There are certain engines that I've seen multiple examples, for example GM LS v8 engines without AFM and a few Toyota engines. Other than that, mostly just diesels. But I would put Hyundai on the opposite end of the spectrum.

Also certain years of 5.0 Ford seem pretty good, specifically the 15-17 with a 6 speed, but they haven't been out long enough for a large number of high mileage ones.

 

[350Rocket]

Just trying to take it step by step.

Installing a catch can on that engine is pretty straight forward. If nothing else, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086H9DGQQ

Though I'm pretty sure there are ready make kits from ADD W1 and other manufacturers for the Sonata 2.4L GDI.

Once you have a few miles with the catch can, you can look what accumulates in it, and how much blow by you have. It's far easier to do it this way than guessing. A catch can will also help clean your pistons and intake valves. Slowly all the gunk will burn off. Your oil will also stay cleaner for longer in the crankcase. I don't think Valvoline Restore & Protect will do anything for you.

I think that the oil control rings are gunked up. It's gonna take some work to clean them up. Installing a catch can is very important to keep those rings clean. Oil alone won't solve this problem.

I have that catch can for the 2.4 on my GM truck 4.8L, because I bought it from a member, either here or maybe on Reddit a few years ago. It's a great catch can, I love it. I had a cheap one on my Cutlass, it hardly caught anything and started leaking so I had to throw it out.

 

[Ronin73]

the bigger the disappointment will be when we finally find out that it's just another run of the mill Valvoline motor oil.

I think it is a little disingenuous to call Valvoline "run of the mill." UOA's show a very solid oil that performs above average.