Valvoline Restore and Protect skepticism

[tired]

No. I am all over maintainance, but could not possibly see tearing down engines with no discernible issues.

The point is that you can't inspect the area that the oil claims to clean. Maybe you don't burn oil which is an acceptable proxy, but there are lots of people here who ran VRP on seemingly clean engines that got a lot of crud out. If you don't want to run it for whatever reason, that's fine, but how can you be skeptical of the myriad results posted here??

Basically it seems like, to further the analogies here, you've never had a bacterial infection, so why should anyone need antibiotics.

To reference your OP, the reason we have a need for this oil is people running "better, cheaper synthetics that meet the specifications" and had issues.

 

[goblin]

... "better, cheaper synthetics that meet the specifications" and had issues.

My Royal Purple was neither better nor cheaper. Eight years worth, about 2.5 changes/year.

 

[tired]

My Royal Purple was neither better nor cheaper. Eight years worth, about 2.5 changes/year.

Yep. Another case in point.

 

[Revving2Redline]

One piece of evidence is that it lacks the Dexos seal, which many new cars require.

I didn't know many new cars were GM. If its not then this Dexos voodoo is irrelevant and maybe more so since they decided 0w40 was a fix to their disaster of a car company. I think you can get a really good product to the customer from many non dexos lubricants.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Many top offerings don’t get Dexos. PUP for example. Cost and relieving recipe is a turn off for them.

Rightfully so too. The minority is ruining it for the masses. What makes Dexos better than VW or Toyota specifications? Im impressed only with the VRP 5w30 & VEPHM 5w30 and I see no dexos stamp of extortion on either.
PUP has too much going for it to be Dexos and in theory, they should crank up the hths and turn it in a poor mans Redline Oil.

 

[Revving2Redline]

I’ve maintained this vehicle since new with QSFS for a friend. Varnish visibly started around 45k at 150k now.

So, your heart was in the right place . The interest would be is this varnish really harming anything? Was the oil ran too long? Other issues internally that may have caused? Not driven in a normal manner; either short tripped or drag raced? For most, I dont think people even both to look very hard down the hole because they dont know, don't care, or likely have it serviced and have a out of sight and out of mind mentality.

 

[ChrisD46]

You don't have any that require cleaning that you know of.

Not VRP at that time. My sons high mileage Forte, didn't burn any oil, I've cut every filter for last 6 years and 50K+, always clean pleats and can. It used to have a decently loud piston slap type sound when cold (worse in winter). I did BG EPR flush, didn't change anything that I could tell, no junk in filter all the times running M1 AFE and PP. I decided to run some HPL EC30, about 1/2 way through the OCI it was noticeably quieter at start up to the point my wife asked what I had done. All I can guess is that rings got freed up some allowing proper movement/centering in cylinder. At the end of that OCI this was in the filter with a lot of little carbon specks in pleats. It had a leaking VCG for awhile and when I tackled that right about same time as EC30, the top end looked like this with about 185k. It always looked clean through fill port prior. It's currently running VRP 5w-30, I'll see it at Thanksgiving for it's first oil change from that. We'll see how filter looks.

View attachment 304392
View attachment 304393

I started doing oil changes on a 2017 Kia Sorento 3.3L DI NA engine that got oil changed at the dealer most of its life . After the1st OCI of M1 0W30 ESP that I did I found carbon chunks (like you show) and varnish on the dip stick started to improve . Now half way through an OCI of M1 5W30 ESP plus I added a bottle of Rislone engine treatment I had on hand and the cleaning has continued . I’ll trust a 30 weight oil is still OK for the Kia 3.3L DI engine but next OCI will be VRP 5W30 as besides its cleaning abilities it runs very smooth and quiet in other Hyundai / Kia engines I have (2.4L DI Theta II , 2.0L MPI Nu) . If I left VRP for another oil (after VRP ran for 5 OCI’s) - it would only be to go back and use M1 0W30 ESP or possibly try PUP 5W30 after VRP finished cleaning.

 

[TomYoung]

I didn't know many new cars were GM. If its not then this Dexos voodoo is irrelevant and maybe more so since they decided 0w40 was a fix to their disaster of a car company. I think you can get a really good product to the customer from many non dexos lubricants.

Dexos is not the highest standard, but reflects a good all round series of oil performance tests. GM is the fourth largest automaker, so does produce a good number of new vehicles. The oil change you are talking about concerned one engine, I believe. Respect for the high mileage achieved on your modified Honda.

 

[53' Stude]

Dexos is not the highest standard, but reflects a good all round series of oil performance tests. GM is the fourth largest automaker, so does produce a good number of new vehicles. The oil change you are talking about concerned one engine, I believe. Respect for the high mileage achieved on your modified Honda.

DEXOS is a joke I e “pay to play” license. I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy a DEXOS certified oil. I’d use M1 0w/5w-30 oil

 

[#18FAN]

DEXOS is a joke I e “pay to play” license. I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy a DEXOS certified oil. I’d use M1 0w/5w-30 oil

M1 0w/5w-30 oil is DEXOS unless you are talking about ESP line and I think you are.

 

[Glenda W.]

Dexos R is the most stringent US standard. Which are all euro oils.

 

[53' Stude]

M1 0w/5w-30 oil is DEXOS unless you are talking about ESP line and I think you are.

Yup