Valvoline Restore and protect question

Do you folks even check first if your motor is sludged up or not before using R&P? Correct me if I am wrong, but burning oil is not the only sign of a dirty engine.
What makes R&P a game changer is its ability to clean piston deposits that cause oil consumption in so many vehicles. These deposits aren’t visible without disassembly. It just so happens to also clean sludge and even reports of varnish by some. If used exclusively it may prevent any of these problems from ever happening. Only time will tell.
 
Many (I should say the majority of the the problems come from) using the factory recommended Castrol Euro oil have had oil control ring sticking issues, some using different oil have had a bit better luck, and some worse luck with the 3.0t engine. The guys that were tuned and run them harder seemed to be able to much longer before they started using oil, but eventually all the 3.0t CREC engines will get stuck oil control rings and start gobbling oil it would seem.
And the 10K interval. That is worse than the oil.
 
I bought the Q7 second hand from the Audi dealership that had been using the dealers Castrol Euro 5-40 in it at their recommend oil changes of 10,000 miles, done on time, every time. Carfax showed this interval also. So this oil caused the low tension oil control rings to stick to stick in the piston groves in the first place. I purchased the vehicle after it had just had the oil changed and was full of oil. 400 miles latter, it was down a quart, so I did a Berrymans B12 piston soak, BG EPR flush right after the soak and put in Restore & Protect to polish it off. Not using any oil now in 5000 mile changes of the oil.

Low tension rings and piston deposits make for carbon stuck oil control rings. Who would have thought... Keep going long enough and the carbon chunks from the chambers and on the pistons, due to all the oil getting past the rings and burning, will eventually hang the exhaust vale open and burn the valve. So I hit the problem like a shotgun and hit it with everything I could at once to save the engine and prevent the burned valve problem from happening like has happened to others with the same 3.0 Audi supercharged engine. It worked, and no more oil consumption. Some guys have just done the Valvoline R&P, but that takes a while, so I hit it hard and fast with the piston soak first knowing it would work quick.

Many (I should say the majority of the the problems come from) using the factory recommended Castrol Euro oil have had oil control ring sticking issues, some using different oil have had a bit better luck, and some worse luck with the 3.0t engine. The guys that were tuned and run them harder seemed to be able to much longer before they started using oil, but eventually all the 3.0t CREC engines will get stuck oil control rings and start gobbling oil it would seem.
I wonder if there's a design/engineering flaw in the Audi rings.

Both of my 3.0L TT Benz motors consume no oil, and have lived most of their life on MB service oil or Castrol Euro 5w40 at the standard 1 year/10,000 mile service interval.
 
I bought the Q7 second hand from the Audi dealership that had been using the dealers Castrol Euro 5-40 in it at their recommend oil changes of 10,000 miles, done on time, every time. Carfax showed this interval also. So this oil caused the low tension oil control rings to stick to stick in the piston groves in the first place. I purchased the vehicle after it had just had the oil changed and was full of oil. 400 miles latter, it was down a quart, so I did a Berrymans B12 piston soak, BG EPR flush right after the soak and put in Restore & Protect to polish it off. Not using any oil now in 5000 mile changes of the oil.

Low tension rings and piston deposits make for carbon stuck oil control rings. Who would have thought... Keep going long enough and the carbon chunks from the chambers and on the pistons, due to all the oil getting past the rings and burning, will eventually hang the exhaust vale open and burn the valve. So I hit the problem like a shotgun and hit it with everything I could at once to save the engine and prevent the burned valve problem from happening like has happened to others with the same 3.0 Audi supercharged engine. It worked, and no more oil consumption. Some guys have just done the Valvoline R&P, but that takes a while, so I hit it hard and fast with the piston soak first knowing it would work quick.

Many (I should say the majority of the the problems come from) using the factory recommended Castrol Euro oil have had oil control ring sticking issues, some using different oil have had a bit better luck, and some worse luck with the 3.0t engine. The guys that were tuned and run them harder seemed to be able to much longer before they started using oil, but eventually all the 3.0t CREC engines will get stuck oil control rings and start gobbling oil it would seem.

Castrol Euro 5W-40 has many tough approvals similar to M1 Euro 0/5W-40 (iirc exact same approvals since I have both in my garage).

Are you sure that's what the dealer was using? Sometimes they use some kind of bulk oil ...

Maybe as mentioned, the 10K OCI was the problem with this car i.e. it's not easy on oil and/or driven hard. or if a Euro oil with this many approvals does that, I wonder what an oil with basic approvals will do.

btw, I am not necessarily a Castrol fan but you can't argue with the list of approvals unless they are meaningless! That's why I say the best oil is a shorter OCI. :ROFLMAO:
 
Last edited:
And the 10K interval. That is worse than the oil.

I've run 10K oil changes forever on my old A6's, A8's and Mercedes using the older formula of M1 0/40 and have her had oil consumption or dirty engine internals. I've pulled valve covers due to leaking cover gaskets before at 200K miles and the engine is clean and spotless inside. Never pulled pistons to see the carbon deposits however, but because of no oil consumption problems why would you.... Assume the rings are free and not stuck.

That said, the older version engines also were not using a low tension oil control rings in them I doubt either. Some people on the Audi Q7 forum have had no oil consumption with their engines but what are they running for oil? I know one guy there has been running Liqui-Moly oil and has no oil usage well into 140K miles of ownership. So is that oil not making the deposits? Perhaps, I dont know. Lots are doing 5000 miles changes and still having oil consumption problems so doesn't seem like the mileage is the issue. I'd call it the oil being the problem making the piston deposits.
 
I've run 10K oil changes forever on my old A6's, A8's and Mercedes using the older formula of M1 0/40 and have her had oil consumption or dirty engine internals. I've pulled valve covers due to leaking cover gaskets before at 200K miles and the engine is clean and spotless inside. Never pulled pistons to see the carbon deposits however, but because of no oil consumption problems why would you.... Assume the rings are free and not stuck.

That said, the older version engines also were not using a low tension oil control rings in them I doubt either. Some people on the Audi Q7 forum have had no oil consumption with their engines but what are they running for oil? I know one guy there has been running Liqui-Moly oil and has no oil usage well into 140K miles of ownership. So is that oil not making the deposits? Perhaps, I dont know. Lots are doing 5000 miles changes and still having oil consumption problems so doesn't seem like the mileage is the issue. I'd call it the oil being the problem making the piston deposits.
Perhaps. I just am reluctant to blame a brand that does carry a required approval. But maybe in this instance it’s warranted.
 
I bought the Q7 second hand from the Audi dealership that had been using the dealers Castrol Euro 5-40 in it at their recommend oil changes of 10,000 miles, done on time, every time. Carfax showed this interval also. So this oil caused the low tension oil control rings to stick to stick in the piston groves in the first place. I purchased the vehicle after it had just had the oil changed and was full of oil. 400 miles latter, it was down a quart, so I did a Berrymans B12 piston soak, BG EPR flush right after the soak and put in Restore & Protect to polish it off. Not using any oil now in 5000 mile changes of the oil.

Low tension rings and piston deposits make for carbon stuck oil control rings. Who would have thought... Keep going long enough and the carbon chunks from the chambers and on the pistons, due to all the oil getting past the rings and burning, will eventually hang the exhaust vale open and burn the valve. So I hit the problem like a shotgun and hit it with everything I could at once to save the engine and prevent the burned valve problem from happening like has happened to others with the same 3.0 Audi supercharged engine. It worked, and no more oil consumption. Some guys have just done the Valvoline R&P, but that takes a while, so I hit it hard and fast with the piston soak first knowing it would work quick.

Many (I should say the majority of the the problems come from) using the factory recommended Castrol Euro oil have had oil control ring sticking issues, some using different oil have had a bit better luck, and some worse luck with the 3.0t engine. The guys that were tuned and run them harder seemed to be able to much longer before they started using oil, but eventually all the 3.0t CREC engines will get stuck oil control rings and start gobbling oil it would seem.
That sounds to me like an engine design problem rather than a Castrol Euro oil problem.
 
Castrol Euro 5W-40 has many tough approvals similar to M1 Euro 0/5W-40 (iirc exact same approvals since I have both in my garage).

Are you sure that's what the dealer was using? Sometimes they use some kind of bulk oil ...

Maybe as mentioned, the 10K OCI was the problem with this car i.e. it's not easy on oil and/or driven hard. or if a Euro oil with this many approvals does that, I wonder what an oil with basic approvals will do.

btw, I am not necessarily a Castrol fan but you can't argue with the list of approvals unless they are meaningless! That's why I say the best oil is a shorter OCI. :ROFLMAO:

Of course I cant be positive, but asking the dealer I bought the vehicle from and where it had been bought from new and serviced at, they claimed they were using the Audi approved brand Castrol Euro 5w/40. Many others on the Audi Q7 forum that have also had the dealer changed oil, are having extreme oil consumption with the dealer supplied Castrol Euro 5w/40 oil, I'd go so far as to say if you are using this oil in the Q7,it is a guarantee the oil oil control rings are going to stick, and its going to gobble oil once you get up in miles. More often then not it seems to start around 36K miles and gets severe around 70-80,000 miles. The engine will burn valves due to carbon chunks coming loose from the chamber and hanging a valve open around 70-80-100,000 miles. Typically these engines are using a quart of oil in 300-400 miles when the valves burn. Stuck low tension rings are to blame and the cause of the extreme carbon in the combustion chamber.

The oil is causing the deposits which cause the low tension rings to stick in the ring lands. An oil that won't carbon up the ring lands will keep the rings free in the piston. Which ones those are I'd like to know for sure, but people on the Audi forum typically don't service their own vehicles or even know what a spark plug does or how anything mechanical even works, most Q7 suvs are run buy soccer moms and older well to do folks. I'm an old heavy equipment mechanic, drag racer and have been around the back a time or two, so am fortunate to know how this all stuff works. The control rings can be freed up with a Berrymans B12 piston soak but most don't even have the tools or know how to do it, so lots of engines get toasted before they free those oil control rings up. Usually these folks hear from the dealer that they need an engine or engine rebuild to the tune of about $28K from the Audi dealers, obviously most don't do it and keep driving, they end up with an vehicle that burns a valve and now wont run any longer or they trade them in on the spot.
 
That sounds to me like an engine design problem rather than a Castrol Euro oil problem.

Low tension oil control rings.... Done for power on race engines and on street engines for increased fuel mileage. Can thank the government CAFE standards for those fleet mileage requirements and the with to low tension rings....

Either way, the oils that make piston deposits and carbon up due to the high heat on the piston ring lands are to blame for the rings sticking in those ring lands. Get an oil that does't carbon up the control ring lands and you'll have winner. Exactly why I'm using the Valvoline Restore & Protect now. To my knowledge, they are the only off the shelf oil to claim they can clean up the piston ring lands. A high ester oil may also do this, I don't know for sure. I suspect an old formulation of the M1 Euro oil may have also keep the deposits at bay. All I think I know is the Castrol Euro oil can't keep the piston deposits from sticking the oil control rings on the Q7 3.0t engine. There is way-way to many 3.0t CREC engines with the oil control ring related oil consumption, and using the B12 piston soak will free them up. Many of us are now using the Valvoline Restore & Protect to keep them from sticking again even though it's not an approved oil on the Euro list. Some have not done the soak and just switched to the VR&P only and claimed success if not using too much oil. We're just sampling and changing oil at 5,000 mile intervals. Some are going a bit longer now after seeing the excellent results of the sampling. I'm not driving enough yet to see the need to go to longer intervals on it.

Right now I'm a big believer in the VR&P and will keep using it forever unless the rings get stuck again. I see no reason to go away from it. Euro oil approvals be dammed, they cause the problem in this engine in the first place, they aren't working in this Audi CREC 3.0t engine with its low ring tension pack.
 
Just curious, is Castrol Euro 5W-40 still the Audi approved oil? Their 0W-40 and 0-30 is supposed to be even "better". Not sure if that makes any difference since in general, it sounds like it is a problematic engine if everyone is experiencing what you are saying.

I've read that a thinner oil sometimes does better with low tension rings ...

Maybe @edyvw can recommend an alternative for this exact design. He is into these kind of stuff but you would think Audi should know what's best.
 
Just curious, is Castrol Euro 5W-40 still the Audi approved oil? Their 0W-40 and 0-30 is supposed to be even "better". Not sure if that makes any difference since in general, it sounds like it is a problematic engine if everyone is experiencing what you are saying.

I've read that a thinner oil sometimes does better with low tension rings ...

Maybe @edyvw can recommend an alternative for this exact design. He is into these kind of stuff but you would think Audi should know what's best.
VW 502/505 approved.

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/unite...e-oils/castrol-edge-euro.html#tab_5w-40 a3/b4
 
I've run 10K oil changes forever on my old A6's, A8's and Mercedes using the older formula of M1 0/40 and have her had oil consumption or dirty engine internals. I've pulled valve covers due to leaking cover gaskets before at 200K miles and the engine is clean and spotless inside. Never pulled pistons to see the carbon deposits however, but because of no oil consumption problems why would you.... Assume the rings are free and not stuck.

That said, the older version engines also were not using a low tension oil control rings in them I doubt either. Some people on the Audi Q7 forum have had no oil consumption with their engines but what are they running for oil? I know one guy there has been running Liqui-Moly oil and has no oil usage well into 140K miles of ownership. So is that oil not making the deposits? Perhaps, I dont know. Lots are doing 5000 miles changes and still having oil consumption problems so doesn't seem like the mileage is the issue. I'd call it the oil being the problem making the piston deposits.
I agree, my Hyundai never saw over a 3,500 mile oil change. All top grade oils, Amsoil SS Mobil1 Extended, Mobil 1 ESP and still majorly jammed rings. In the middle of a first Redline Performance 5W-30 Euro run my fuel dilution problem went away. My hypothesis is the two top rings were jammed closed. I no longer use Redline because they are price gouging their car oils. Hyundai/Kia have to be the worst for ring jamming carbon issues in the market today, with Audi being high on the list also.
 
I agree, my Hyundai never saw over a 3,500 mile oil change. All top grade oils, Amsoil SS Mobil1 Extended, Mobil 1 ESP and still majorly jammed rings. In the middle of a first Redline Performance 5W-30 Euro run my fuel dilution problem went away. My hypothesis is the two top rings were jammed closed. I no longer use Redline because they are price gouging their car oils. Hyundai/Kia have to be the worst for ring jamming carbon issues in the market today, with Audi being high on the list also.
Curious if Hyundai / Kia GDI engines are more the issue of early stuck rings than previous MPI engines (Nu) do ?
 
Curious if Hyundai / Kia GDI engines are more the issue of early stuck rings than previous MPI engines (Nu) do ?
I would say maybe /to no. A relative called me and said their 2014 Kia Soul 2.0 MPI is at the dealer with a fried engine. It pulled a Hyundai/Kia recall rod knock code. The dealer said their was just less then a qt of oil in the pan and the motor is toast. He said it is 100 miles away from the 5,000 mile oil change regiment he goes by. So the motor sucked down 80%ish of it's oil during this oil change interval. He said the dealer would take it off his hands and give him $300 for it. He asked what I would do. I said, very very odd a dealer is offering you money for a car. I said red flag, go pick it up and your going to try an experiment. First off bring 4 qts of the cheapest oil you can find Walmart as you will be dumping it when you get home with the car. Also get 2 Fram Ultra oil filters and a jug of 5W-30 Valvoline Restore & Protect. The car ran flawlessly omn the way home. No fried motor. Hmmmmm........a $300 offer for the car, I guess they know the Hyundai/Kia early warning rod knock algorytm works and makes for an easy car purchuse and resale for the dealership. The car is still running and it is down to about half the oil loss in it's 3rd oil change He is doing 3,000 mile dumps till it is reduced a bit farther.
 
I bought my car new and my engine was spotless through it's life, as I was running all the high end oils and boutique oils at 3,000 mile dump intervals. Amsoil SS, Mobil1 Extended, Mobil1 ESP the last 1.5 to 2 years of it's life before the Redline Performance's ester cleaning that release what I think are my top two rings that were jammed. I just own a Hyundai, and that means your car is automatically in rough service mode as it's default. It is also a tuner car and gets thrashed daily. Also my tuner is a known tuner in the industry and he does not tune rich, he actually tunes on the lean side.
So you developed ring issues on Amsoil SS, M1 EP, and M1 ESP on 3000 mile intervals that the Redline corrected?
 
So you developed ring issues on Amsoil SS, M1 EP, and M1 ESP on 3000 mile intervals that the Redline corrected?
Yes, say it is not so, but it is so. I even PMed MolaKule at the time, to question how just using an oil at the time mid run vanished my very very bad at the time fuel dilution. I was ready to suck out 3/4 of qt of fuel/oil and the mid point of the 3,000 mile run and it was just a hair above level. First time I ever saw that in years since new. I don't run Redline anymore since they priced me out of the market after covid. $17 a qt is a rip off. I can get HPL in a bucket for $14. Now I just use VRP in the winter and use HPL EC every other change for my summer oil 5W-40 Motul 8100-Clean Gen 2. I try to run Mid SAPS if I can.
 
Just curious, is Castrol Euro 5W-40 still the Audi approved oil? Their 0W-40 and 0-30 is supposed to be even "better". Not sure if that makes any difference since in general, it sounds like it is a problematic engine if everyone is experiencing what you are saying.

I've read that a thinner oil sometimes does better with low tension rings ...

Maybe @edyvw can recommend an alternative for this exact design. He is into these kind of stuff but you would think Audi should know what's best.
It is approved still. For a while, 2017ish(?), VWAG made Castrol REQUIRED for warranty, even put a special dye in the oil that would be checked for, (with UV light?) before approving a warranty claim, but I guess the executive kickbacks on that ran out, and as far as I know no VWAG product requires Castrol any longer to keep the engine warranty.
 
Back
Top Bottom