Somebody from Valvoline did say that, maybe not verbatim, but in response to my questions.
Valvoline Restore and Protect drawbacks?
- Thread starter Dave1027
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Nope. I would have bought it if my intenion was to have and to hold. It's a "fake Mexican Jeep" - a Compass Limited with Italy sourced 2L turbo engine that sounds like a bucket of rocks thrown into an empty a cement mixer. The Hyundai sourced 8 speed transmission is surprisingly nice. The platform with dual inner and outer full length boxed welded frame rail unit body that is an incredibly stiff platform.
They were blowing these out a couple months ago and got a reasonable lease. It was my Fourth try to replace my 2020 2.0 liter AWD Ford Ecosport - which in hindsight I should have kept and coughed up the $2300- for an extended powertrain service contract. and another $500 -for four fresh tires.
At least I am changing the oil on the contraption. LOL.
Merry!
-Arco
A few members here reported substantial cleaning on engines that have be run on quality oil.Nice
I remember the Ferrari & Pennzoil Ultra commercial keeping it factory clean. If its not dirty, do I not need Valvoline Restore and Protect?. Would Mobil 1 Extended Performance, AMSOIL Signature Series, Redline and HPL keep a engine factory clean if used from after the factory fill or after around 2,000 miles of breakin first? Clean is one thing, wear is another and though they go hand in hand, I might consider wear more important. Dirty oil isn't a bad thing at times; its identifying its cleaning, it's easier to see on a dipstick, gets me excited to plan on changing oil at a set interval based on consumption or miles traveled.
You would think a PAO/AN/POE true synth would keep an engine free from varnish and gunk - specifically the piston ring lands which would be my primary area of concern - along with the toasty exhaust runner roof(s) in the head
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My first thread here was about my trusty econobox fed exclusively on Royal Purple from new, at 3k to 6k OCI. At 125k the dipstick looked like a Pocky chocolate covered biscuit stick. Even the top was the same kind of yellow.
Quality oil...
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
It's almost always a better deal to keep the car and fix it, in my experience.
A 10W30 could be made to be a dream oil for DI engines (i.e.low deposits ) via low NOACK - instead it finds itself by and large as being a “dead” grade of oil now in favor of 5W30 .
One downside might be - I'm not sure if it's suitable for turbo engines. I don't think it is.
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Well, guys are running it in their TWIN turbo Audi 4.0 V8s with great success helping and curing their oil consumption on. Oil sampling is showing less wear metals on 5w-30 than using their previous name brand high end 5 and 0w-40 approved Euro oils at same intervals. Some here say wear metals don’t matter on the analysis and yet common sense tells me different when wear metals are clearly cut in half or close to it on these twin turbo Audi hot Vee V8’s with their great oil analysis they are doing run after run. If Valvoline Restore and Protect can run in these high HP and hot running twin turbo engines, it can be used successfully in any road going vehicle at 5000 mile intervals and less which they are doing and even did with the Euro oils that caused the consumption to start with.
The boutiques still preserve this. Even in the lower tiers of Amsoil's offerings, like their High Mileage oil, the Noack on the 10W-30 is much lower, 4-5% range.
I run Valvoline Restore and Protect in my I-6 twin-turbo Ram, because it meets all the specs you'd expect nowadays and I believe it MAY keep turbo deposits to a minimum. I'll be doing a used oil analysis sometime next spring--stay tuned!
Finally got it done. There are no drawbacks to say the least! Here's my used oil analysis on Valvoline Restore and Protect after 10k miles:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...t-5w-30-10k-mi-18-toyota-4runner-120k.404563/
Fantastic! Do you plan on trying to extend the interval past 10k (next time?)?
I'm sticking with 10k OCI for this vehicle. It's what the owners manual states and it seems to work well given the kind of miles it sees. I'm not going to mess with success! Thanks
Sounds like a good plan to me!
Well, that's because marketing people don't pay a ton of attention to detail. Elemental carbon cannot be dissolved by any chemicals you want put inside an engine. Heck, if any sane chemistry could do this, you'd have the gun cleaner market so yourself. Hard carbon in a rifle chamber is a challenge for target shooters that is almost a rite of passage. No solvent will dissolve it. It's only removable with abrasives and wire brushes-- mechanical, not chemical.
So chemistry dictates that the carbon itself is not being dissolved, it is being dislodge by having its adhesion degraded. It's fundamentally a mechanical removal even if by chemical means.
