Valvoline Restore and Protect ATF

The only transmission in our fleet it could go into is in the 2005 Ranger (5R55E) which specs MerconV.

Waiting for Valvoline Restore and Protect ATF FZ for the Mazda and Valvoline Restore and Protect ATFJWS3324, Valvoline Restore and Protect ATFJWS3309 for the Volvos.

FZ, 3324 and 3309 are all listed on Valvoline's PI sheet.
 
https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...6bb77eae/ee85654a-dab8-f011-b824-9440c99fa601

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the only application I can see for this product is a transmission with like 150K miles, never changed and on more occasions run a bit warmer than normal.. Most transmission videos i see it not plugged up pistons in valve bodies it more like with the 68rfe the valve body bottom plate get micro crack or warps a bit allow leakage between worm tracks or too large a tire and running in high gear all the time when towing and trying to be the first guy up the hill creating a lot of slip and heat in the clutches burning them out..

I bought a 2010 hyundai sonata with 125K miles and can tell the tran fluid was never changed.. it was like chocolate milk color.. I had to do 3 pan drains and refill over a month period to get it looking like new fluid.. it shifted fine the whole time..
 
Who knows. Valvoline states that with Valvoline Restore and Protect oil the “stuff” that’s removed is in solution and isn’t trapped by a filter. But people on here have seen stuff in the filter, whether it is directly related to the oil is debatable in my mind. But we have pictures. What a Valvoline Restore and Protect ATF would do is different perhaps, that’s not the same as cleaning a piston ring for example.
Actually a valvoline rep also said the reason they aim 4 oil changes rather than one is not to overwhelm the filter. I think it was that LSJr video?
 
the only application I can see for this product is a transmission with like 150K miles, never changed and on more occasions run a bit warmer than normal.. Most transmission videos i see it not plugged up pistons in valve bodies it more like with the 68rfe the valve body bottom plate get micro crack or warps a bit allow leakage between worm tracks or too large a tire and running in high gear all the time when towing and trying to be the first guy up the hill creating a lot of slip and heat in the clutches burning them out..

I bought a 2010 hyundai sonata with 125K miles and can tell the tran fluid was never changed.. it was like chocolate milk color.. I had to do 3 pan drains and refill over a month period to get it looking like new fluid.. it shifted fine the whole time..
There is a theory (on the internet so there's that) the issues with the 6R80 lead frame is conductive clutch material building up near all the electrical connection points & shorting them out. Really don't know the validity of such a claim but that was floated out there on an F150 board. I run AMSOIL Signature Series fluid as well as a larger pan (with drain plug) and external spin on filter in PH8A size and have not had an issue.

Don't see myself trying this Valvoline Restore and Protect fluid out anytime soon.
 
Actually a valvoline rep also said the reason they aim 4 oil changes rather than one is not to overwhelm the filter. I think it was that LSJr video?
Which has always been interesting to me since Valvoline says this on their website:

10. As deposits leave the engine, where do they go? Do the deposits have any effect on oil filter performance or longevity?

Valvoline’s Active Clean technology chemically dissolves deposits into microscopic pieces, which are then suspended in the motor oil, eventually leaving the engine during the next oil change. There is no impact to the performance or longevity of the oil filter.
 
Which has always been interesting to me since Valvoline says this on their website:
Yes, agree, a little contradictory. I've noted that too. My hypothesis is that the piston deposits get fully dissolved/suspended in small enough particles that the filter doesn't catch them, but the sludge and varnish that you might also have in the engine will get caught by the filter, so there's a risk of loading up your filter from that, but not the piston deposit cleaning.
 
Yes, agree, a little contradictory. I've noted that too. My hypothesis is that the piston deposits get fully dissolved/suspended in small enough particles that the filter doesn't catch them, but the sludge and varnish that you might also have in the engine will get caught by the filter, so there's a risk of loading up your filter from that, but not the piston deposit cleaning.
Well thought, this might very well be what they meant.
 
I am deeply dissapointed in the EP ATF fluid they have. I recently did a drain and refill, and if I did not know how well the car was shifting before, I would think I am due a rebuilt soon
I haven't heard too many good reviews about Valvoline ATF in Ford LV applications either. A few for sure but several complaints. Don't know why they haven't got that side to work well as their motor oils have worked great in the Ford applications I've used them in. For a Mercon LV substitute I tend to stick with Amsoil & Castrol although I've been wanting to try HPL & Havoline. AMSOIL Signature Series (ATL) has treated me very well over the years so I just tend to stick with it unless I'm short on time & forgot to restock.
 
I haven't heard too many good reviews about Valvoline ATF in Ford LV applications either. A few for sure but several complaints. Don't know why they haven't got that side to work well as their motor oils have worked great in the Ford applications I've used them in. For a Mercon LV substitute I tend to stick with Amsoil & Castrol although I've been wanting to try HPL & Havoline. AMSOIL Signature Series (ATL) has treated me very well over the years so I just tend to stick with it unless I'm short on time & forgot to restock.
I should have researched Valvoline ATF more. I just thought since they captured a good chunk of the market, their product must also be good quality.
Boy I was wrong.

I heard great things about Amsoil, but I decided to give Redline a shot. It feels wrong to change the transmission oil in lelss than 1k mile though
 
I should have researched Valvoline ATF more. I just thought since they captured a good chunk of the market, their product must also be good quality.
Boy I was wrong.

I heard great things about Amsoil, but I decided to give Redline a shot. It feels wrong to change the transmission oil in lelss than 1k mile though
Redline makes great lubricants, stick with it.
 
Yes, agree, a little contradictory. I've noted that too. My hypothesis is that the piston deposits get fully dissolved/suspended in small enough particles that the filter doesn't catch them, but the sludge and varnish that you might also have in the engine will get caught by the filter, so there's a risk of loading up your filter from that, but not the piston deposit cleaning.
This does make me wonder what the Valvoline Restore and Protect ATF can do for transmission related deposits since deposits in a transmission are not same carbon buildup from the combustion process but rather glazing of clutch discs and/or other internal component material break down. Either way, I'll be trying it in my 01 Subaru Outback when it's available, plus it just so happens to have a spin on filter from the factory.

Why wouldn’t they offer this in ULV. There’s plenty of 10 speeds with high mileage already.
I'm guessing that they took their current ATF sales into consideration. I would assume that Valvoline sells a very small fraction of ULV compared to their universal fluid ATF. I've been following the Ford 10R80 info for a couple years now and this is my conclusion. The vast majority of 10R80 owners use Motorcraft still just because of how sensitive the transmission can be and many are gun shy of other manufactures ULV compatibility claims due to a certain company that claimed their LV fluid was compatible with ULV transmissions for a few years... I would guess GM 10L80 owners probably have a similar mindset.
 
Yes, agree, a little contradictory. I've noted that too. My hypothesis is that the piston deposits get fully dissolved/suspended in small enough particles that the filter doesn't catch them, but the sludge and varnish that you might also have in the engine will get caught by the filter, so there's a risk of loading up your filter from that, but not the piston deposit cleaning.
To me that is chemically opposite of what I would expect. Carbon cannot be dissolved in much of anything, it would take some corrosive or downright dangerous liquid to do that and it would be highly reactive. So if anything I'd expect that this type of deposit would have the attachment bonds weakened and we'd see those pieces stuck in the filter - which is what people here are reporting. Whether those reported carbon particles are actually a result of cleaning from the oil isn't something I'm particularly convinced of however.

Sludge and varnish are not like elemental carbon and can be dissolved or diluted, and I'd expect these to be held in solution like Valvoline states. But at the same time Valvoline expressly advertises it helps with ring sticking and carbonaceous deposits so there's that.

Of course at the same time we are going off of marketing materials and really know nothing of the underlying chemistry.
 
Does anything?
As far as I've seen for Ford 10R80's, the ULV options are:
Motorcraft ULV
Amsoil ULV (pretty recent)
HPL Teal
Triax ULV
Valvoline ULV (blue bottle)

I'm sure there are others out there, but those seem to be the popular options discussed. However, most people stick with Motorcraft and do drain and fills frequently.
 
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