Valvetrain Pics-22RE 80k miles

[sears]

Replacing the timing chain on my 93 Toyota pickup, so I thought I would share a few valvetrain pics. What do you think? What would you recommend to clean it up? I have a bottle of Kreen that I haven't used yet...

Valvoline 10w30 HM last 20k miles

 

[OVERKILL]

Holy varnish batman!!!

 

[webfors]

Looks good. Varnish won't hurt anything, but it does make me curious on the oil, interval and filter used through it's life.

 

[sxg6]

Not bad for a 20 year old engine.

 

[Chris142]

Good that you caught the timing chain before it ate through the timing cover.

 

[AngryScientist]

why are you needing to change the timing chain at 80k? that engine should just be breaking in!

 

[VNTS]

are these sludge motors, kind of varnished up for 80K miles.

 

[snowflake]

I don't see anything that would overly concern me

 

[Kool1]

I had a 22RE Toyota pickup and changed the timing chain out at 120,000 miles. The guides were not broken but I heard horror stories from people who had the long plastic guide break and the chaing rubbing through the timing cover. I used LC Engineering valvetrain parts and was going to try their double roller chain with metal guides setup but figured I'd use the local Beck/Arnley stuff as my friend gave me the kit as a gift. The LC Engineering kit looks like it will last forever.

http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-RE-Dual-Row-Timing-Chain-Kit-85-95-LCE-Conv-p/1015018.htm

 

[CarbonSteel]

Nothing major, but I would not want that much varnish at only 80K. You may want to consider some Pennzoil (in your favorite flavor) to clean some of that out.

 

[KCJeep]

Does not look great, but not too bad either. I'm guessing it's been short tripped a good bit. The Maxlife you've been using is a good choice, it is high in detergent, but I'd probably go ahead and run that Kreen you definitely have some room for improvement.

 

[crgstvrs]

Not bad for 20 year old engine. yes there's varnish but step back put the 20 years in perspective and smile. No real problems Kreen should clean it right up.

 

[bourne]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Nothing major, but I would not want that much varnish at only 80K. You may want to consider some Pennzoil (in your favorite flavor) to clean some of that out.



Id say the varnish is more a result of the avg 4k miles a year this vehicle was driven. I doubt any conventional motor oil would do much better. The OP is more than welcome to try any SOPUS products to see if they help clean it any better. Personally, if it was my vehicle, I'd be using Rotella T5 10w30 in it.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: bourne
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Nothing major, but I would not want that much varnish at only 80K. You may want to consider some Pennzoil (in your favorite flavor) to clean some of that out.



Id say the varnish is more a result of the avg 4k miles a year this vehicle was driven. I doubt any conventional motor oil would do much better. The OP is more than welcome to try any SOPUS products to see if they help clean it any better. Personally, if it was my vehicle, I'd be using Rotella T5 10w30 in it.


Nothing wrong with T5, especially if it is bought on sale. Got mine at $11/gallon. Excellent oil and bang for the buck in hot temps.

 

[wally6934]

This mechanic blames Valvoline for the varnish.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100418012039AAg3kdP

“it makes absolutely NO sense NOT to use a good synthetic oil, which lasts longer, protects best, handles heat transfers more effectively, and refuses to make varnish and sludge. Oils with a high ash content (like Valvoline) test out more poorly than others do.”

 

[Danh]

If you don't mind spending $ 1/qt more, I'd suggest Mobil1 HM. Mobil suggests keeping the OCIs short (3-5k) for the first 2-3 intervals as it does its job cleaning things up.

 

[Sayjac]

Quote:
This mechanic blames Valvoline for the varnish.

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100418012039AAg3kdP

“it makes absolutely NO sense NOT to use a good synthetic oil, which lasts longer, protects best, handles heat transfers more effectively, and refuses to make varnish and sludge. Oils with a high ash content (like Valvoline) test out more poorly than others do.”

I'm hoping this post is tongue in cheek, yahooo answers.

Below is a pic from an 01 Civic at 168K that has seen the lowest cost major's mineral oil (some Valvoline oci's) since day 1 as posted in this thread. Agree with bourne that the OP's varnish coat is likely from low miles, not up to operating temp often and/or for long periods over the 20 year period. And I haven't seen a maintenance history here either. While less than aesthetically pleasing, the varnish doesn't look terrible by any means. OP doesn't mention it not running well either.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: crgstvrs
Not bad for 20 year old engine. yes there's varnish but step back put the 20 years in perspective and smile. No real problems Kreen should clean it right up.


I agree with bourne that it is probably the short trips this vehicle saw more than anything else. The low annual mileage is telling here. I've seen plenty of 20 year old engines that look a LOT better than the OP's, including a pile of Ford Windsor V8's. There was a Dodge 3.8L posted on here recently that had its life (which was at least double the mileage of this engine) on conventional and looked incredible.

 

[dishdude]

Tough to tell from the photo, but it looks like there is sludge starting to build up on the cam also. Was this engine short tripped a lot?

 

[JOD]

Any guess on the maintenance for the first 60K? I'm guessing that's probably most responsible for the heavy varnish.

I don't think it's that bad, though. I'd just do reasonably-short oil changes with any name-brand oil, make sure the PCV valve has been changed, and all it a day. You probably need to spend your time worrying about rubber parts that have dry-rotted from sitting. The engine should be the least of your worries.