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Valvetrain Pics-22RE 80k miles
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I would tend to believe that as old as it is with only 80,000 on the clock it was used as a short tripper every once in a while, or sat for a long time. Either of these will contribute to varnish accumulation (as far as I understand it
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My guess, and I want to stress the word guess, is that it might be because conventional oil from the 1990's probably was nowhere near as good as it is today. Part of me wonders if conventional oil from that time was primarily composed of group I/II base stocks which played a big part in the varnish.
Ash is well controlled in a API SN motor oils. When this truck was new oils were different. I think the motor looks good considering the age.
The OP said he had some Kreen, I'd use it. Otherwise the engine doesn't look that bad for the age and how it was used.
I wouldn't use anything but a high calcium oil or high detergent oil in general. PYB meets the need easily with its robust additive pack.
Remember though that generally varnish will not hurt engine lifespan, it's more an eye sore to the ocd than anything.
Remember though that generally varnish will not hurt engine lifespan, it's more an eye sore to the ocd than anything.
Thanks for all the responses. Unsure about the first 60k as that's when I bought it. The timing chain was rattling, the drivers side tensioner was broken and almost had a hole through the timing cover. I replaced chain, got metal tensioners, water pump, oil pump etc. I drive it 40 miles each way to work on the interstate, so no longer is it a short tripper.
I will try the kreen.
I will try the kreen.
I think you guys are blowing a little varnish out of proportion. Its so minute that it wont hurt a thing. I would not worry about it. Dump in your favorite sm or sn oil and drive it till the body falls off!
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Nothing major, but I would not want that much varnish at only 80K. You may want to consider some Pennzoil (in your favorite flavor) to clean some of that out.
What? You're not recommending MS5K?
Nothing major, but I would not want that much varnish at only 80K. You may want to consider some Pennzoil (in your favorite flavor) to clean some of that out.
What? You're not recommending MS5K?
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Nothing major, but I would not want that much varnish at only 80K. You may want to consider some Pennzoil (in your favorite flavor) to clean some of that out.
What? You're not recommending MS5K?
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Nothing major, but I would not want that much varnish at only 80K. You may want to consider some Pennzoil (in your favorite flavor) to clean some of that out.
What? You're not recommending MS5K?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Just so people know, On 11/14/2011, KidVermicious posted the following:
Originally Posted By: KidVermicious;909419
You're asking 4Runner fanatics if keeping the 4Runner is a good idea? I'm no psychic, but I think I can predict what the majority of the answers you get will be...
I paid to have my 22re rebuilt almost 2 years ago. I don't regret it at all, but if I had to do it again I would have paid for a mildly built crate engine. Oregon Engine Rebuilders sells a "better than stock" motor, or a Stage2 build from 22RE Performance...
I say go for it. With a fresh motor under the hood, you can look forward to another 250-300 thousand miles of reliable service. More if you take care of it.
ETA - forgot to mention, I'd rebuild instead of selling and buying another because you already know what you have. What's to say the new one doesn't ending up needing more work too?
So that's why the "comparison" engine looks so clean, it was rebuilt in 2009.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/909419-post2.html
Originally Posted By: KidVermicious;909419
You're asking 4Runner fanatics if keeping the 4Runner is a good idea? I'm no psychic, but I think I can predict what the majority of the answers you get will be...
I paid to have my 22re rebuilt almost 2 years ago. I don't regret it at all, but if I had to do it again I would have paid for a mildly built crate engine. Oregon Engine Rebuilders sells a "better than stock" motor, or a Stage2 build from 22RE Performance...
I say go for it. With a fresh motor under the hood, you can look forward to another 250-300 thousand miles of reliable service. More if you take care of it.
ETA - forgot to mention, I'd rebuild instead of selling and buying another because you already know what you have. What's to say the new one doesn't ending up needing more work too?
So that's why the "comparison" engine looks so clean, it was rebuilt in 2009.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/909419-post2.html
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Thanks for providing that additional information sxg6
I've posted a few pics of my old (never rebuilt) 302's on here.
Here's the one we swapped into a 1990 F-150 that had been neglected:
Engine was run on AMSOIL. Stock, untouched internals from 1988 (until I cracked it open).
I've posted a few pics of my old (never rebuilt) 302's on here.
Here's the one we swapped into a 1990 F-150 that had been neglected:
Engine was run on AMSOIL. Stock, untouched internals from 1988 (until I cracked it open).
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: GenSan
For comparison
That looks excellent
Yeah except for the big hole in the side of the block.
To the OP a little varnish wont hurt a thing. I used to work for a company that had a fleet of Toyotas with 22Rs. Every one of them had over 200k on them. None of them had anything but clutches and exhaust manifolds done to them. Im shocked to see your timing chain with so much wear.
Originally Posted By: GenSan
For comparison
That looks excellent
Yeah except for the big hole in the side of the block.
To the OP a little varnish wont hurt a thing. I used to work for a company that had a fleet of Toyotas with 22Rs. Every one of them had over 200k on them. None of them had anything but clutches and exhaust manifolds done to them. Im shocked to see your timing chain with so much wear.
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