Using Shell Rotella T4 for flat tappet engines

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Newby here and 1st post.

I've been using Shell Rotella T 10w30 in my pre 2000 Cadillac Northstar and 2001 Jeep Wrangler based on info from the Jeep and Cadillac forums on it's higher Zinc (ZDDP) content for these flat tappet engines. Now all I'm seeing the new Rotella T4 available but I can't seem to find out if they have reduced the Zinc content or replaced it with some other anti wear/scuffing additive and just continue to use it going forward. I really don't want to get into additives so I was hoping you all could give me some guidance on this.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Rotella T4 that is ONLY rated as CK-4 (or even CJ-4 if you find the early bottles) will have ZDDP levels around 1100-1200.

I'm not sure it exists, but if you find a DUAL rated Rotella T4 that is CK-4/SN then it will have reduced ZDDP.
 
There were people panicking thinking that they would massively cut back the ZDDP in Rotella but it doesn't really seem like they have, that much.
There is a VOA on BITOG of the new CK-4 Rotella T5 10W-30 and it still seems to have an ok amount of zddp?

Although for those 2 cars, you don't really need high ZDDP levels, despite being flat tappet engines, they get by ok on API SN oils, if it were a muscle car with a wild cam then yes, but a Jeep Inline 6 with a very mild cam and low valve spring pressures? don't worry about ZDDP.
 
The time to run high zinc oil in a 2001 Jeep wrangler may have been in 2001. I've been around Jeeps forever and I don't think I've ever seen one with a wiped cam lobe. Once the cam is work hardened, zinc does nothing additionally. And Jeep 4.0s don't run high spring pressure anyway.

It's not a 70s smallblock chevy.
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
There were people panicking thinking that they would massively cut back the ZDDP in Rotella but it doesn't really seem like they have, that much.
There is a VOA on BITOG of the new CK-4 Rotella T5 10W-30 and it still seems to have an ok amount of zddp?

Although for those 2 cars, you don't really need high ZDDP levels, despite being flat tappet engines, they get by ok on API SN oils, if it were a muscle car with a wild cam then yes, but a Jeep Inline 6 with a very mild cam and low valve spring pressures? don't worry about ZDDP.


OEM valve spring pressures will work well with any good high quality oil. Not to worry.

Now if you have a semi-soft Comp Cam from say 5 years ago and some Chinese made lifters with inferior hardening, I'd be all over the ZDDP numbers and prolly run Brad Penn (Penn One) or Joe Gibbs Driven oil, maybe VR-1 Silver bottle. And you'd still loose it in the end ...
 
As for the Jeep with the 4.0L engine. I have the same engine in my 2003 Jeep Wrangler. While under the warranty I had the dealer change the oil. They used regular Pennzoil 10w-30. After the warranty period, I have been changing my own oil with the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10w-30. I have never had an issue with the engine, or much else with the Jeep. Both the regular Pennzoil and the Ultra in those weights pass the Chrysler Material Standard for motor oil so you should not worry about the flat tappets in the Jeep.
 
If you want to find out the zinc levels in the Rotella, just call the Shell technical hot line. It is on their website. I have found that all of the major oil companies are quite helpful. They staff the hot line with competent people.
 
Yeppers wouldn't worry about it. At least in the 4.0.

You're more likely to have the head cracking issue or the Piston skirts breaking in the 2001 4.0. oil is least of the worries
 
Originally Posted By: Reddy45
Rotella T4 that is ONLY rated as CK-4 (or even CJ-4 if you find the early bottles) will have ZDDP levels around 1100-1200.


The gallon bottles I just picked up had API ratings of CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4/SM so based on the CJ-4 rating it looks like I'm OK.

The Jeep I just picked up in April 2016 and discovered a cracked head which is common in the 2000/2001 years. When I pulled the head is was obvious the engine had been neglected and was sludged up really bad and all the lifter faces were dished so I replaced them all and pulled the oil pan to replace the rear main seal that was leaking and the pan was really sludged up also. I suspect the lifter condition was caused by extended oil change frequencies. I cleaned it out as best as possible and started using the Rotella T and changed it every 1000 miles for a couple times then went to a 3K mile frequency.

The Cadillac is a 98 Seville with only 74K miles I picked up last March with blown head gaskets so I pulled the engine and rebuilt it and replaced the fine thread head bolts with a course thread head stud which is how to fix these engines. 8 of the 32 cam followers had to be replaced due to obvious wear so I did the engine break in with the Rotella along with some Permatex camshaft break in lube.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
As an aside, that can be a bit funny, since if it has ACEA 2012 specs, those are built off of CJ-4.
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Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Hi @samert111, we can assure you that our new T4 formulation contains the same amount of zinc (around 1200ppm). –The Shell Rotella Team


Thanks Chris.
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisGuerrero
Hi @samert111, we can assure you that our new T4 formulation contains the same amount of zinc (around 1200ppm). –The Shell Rotella Team

That’s great info. Anything special I need to look for in CA, or will any Rotella T4 I find have ~1200 ppm zinc and ~1000 ppm phosphorous?
 
well, I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I lost a lobe (#5 cylinder) on my 04 TJ at appeox. 50,000 miles. it had 40,000 miles when I bought it.

I'm not blaming it on the oil or really anything in particular, could have been a weak cam from the get go and my mechanic did not find anything out of the ordinary.

I discovered this site in searching for answers. I'm using rotella now and will continue to do so. It may not help but certainly won't hurt.

and for the record, I worked for and retired from chrysler, jeeps and rams were always my vehicle of choice and I put hundreds of thousands of miles on them and never once considered oil or had an issue. 2000 grand cherokee 4.0 with close to 300,000 miles when it finally left my family and majority of oil changes done at wal-mart with conventional 10w-30.
 
If the lifters were dished, the lobes were also worn. No way they could not be. There is a micro-fine taper to all flat tappet lobes that causes the lifters to spin. This is the primary wear reduction strategy. Once that taper is lost, the jig is up. New lifters will last a while, but not long ...

ZDDP is funny stuff. Is works under heat and pressure to create a film. New oil and cold engines do not make any. As the engine runs over time, it will deposit that film at elevated temps. That is why the assembly lube you pick to install a new cam and lifters is so important. It has to work until the engine comes up to temp ...

A good oil, sometimes on sale at very good prices, is Mystic JT8 15W-40 semi-syn at Tractor Supply and Farm & Fleet. 1,200+ PPM ZDDP
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http://pqiadata.org/Mystik15W40.html

Any oil with 800 PPM of ZDDP is OK for an engine/cam that is broken in. I'd like a little more for the first fill. Won't hurt to have more all the time. Rotella T4 has plenty.

All the HDEO's do. The new ones rated for multi-vehicle fleet use have reduced amounts. But the straight diesel only oils all have 1,100ish or more, except ones rated LE (low emissions).
 
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