Using non-fancy Motor oils.

Pennzoil motor oil
I used Mannol for multiple years, and they works fine. Majority of the oil is HC synthetic or group III as I asked the costumer service directly. The marketing department is indeed very bad, marketing PAO+Ester but it contains <5% of PAO.
The base oil is decent and got approval by VW and other brands. I used 508/509 approved oil on my Toyota Corolla hybrid 2016.

I have tried Castrol, VW original oil (probably the same as Shell Ultra), Mannol 7918 (API SP spec), and Mannol 508/509. Only the Original VW (Shell Ultra) is a bit quieter quieter. The reason I used 0W-20 ACEA C5 standard is just because they are easily available in europe and has a bit better deposit protection because it is approved for light Diesel passanger car. API SP is only for gasoline cars.

So far, after almost 120k miles, no oil consumption with 2ZR-FXE engines that is prone to have oil consumption.

I believe that using Mannol oil 5k miles interval is way better than butique expensive oil like Ravenol VSE or Amsoil Signature Exxon PAO at 10k miles.
 
Generally, engine oil for daily driven cars are about the same for 5-10k miles interval. 2x more expensive oil will never perform 50% better for daily cars, probably 5% if lucky and -15% if unlucky if more expensive oil added unproven extra additives x or t.
Just stick with standard ACEA C3/C5 or approved VW 508 509 or 504⁄507.
 
I like cheap and medium priced oils. It seems like maybe the mid priced oils might offer better results, but that's only a maybe.

Expensive oils might offer better results, but that's only a maybe. Even if they are maybe marginally better, it's not enough to justify cost.
 
nascarnation said:
These are not brands that are familiar in the North American market, but it is agreed on BITOG that if you you use "fancy" oil brands you will have more respect from your neighbors and better looking girlfriends.
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I think it's the opposite - read the book: The Millionaire Next Door. The most rich Millionaires use Warren Distribution made oils.
 
Carlostrece said:
I like cheap and medium priced oils. It seems like maybe the mid priced oils might offer better results, but that's only a maybe.

Expensive oils might offer better results, but that's only a maybe. Even if they are maybe marginally better, it's not enough to justify cost.
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Me I like normally higher priced oils on sale with a rebate that turn out costing less than the cheap or medium priced oils.
 
tolian21 said:
Kirkland Signature sounds pretty fancy to me 😀
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Warren oils are typically all I use, except right after a used car purchase, where I do four 5,000 mile oil drain/fills
with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. After that, the car will get a steady diet of SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 for the rest of it's life.

I refuse to use OEM ATF fluid (like Honda ATF-DW1 or Toyota ATF WS), as they are semi-synthetic fluids that can't take the heat.
Valvoline Maxlife Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic ATF is the only ATF I use.
 
jonni said:
Good day experts.

I have been using mannol for high milage suzuki swift 2013 so i recently did oil change on my corolla e180 D4-D model, And replaced the expensive 0w30 Total quartz ineo with 50% cheaper mannol legend 0w-30.
Only differance i have noticed is the diesel consumption that decreased from 5.0 - 5.1L/100km to 4.9-5.0L/100km. In same winter condition / severe driving.
The quartz was only used about 3100 miles / 5000km.

Is there any reason for me to think mannol is any inferior protection to the engine ? I was even thinking about giving Fanfaro 6719 5w30 c3 a try next time ?

I´m starting to think the motor oil company with the best marketing is automatically regarded the best. I still remember the consumer reports test done in 1996 where all engine oils appeared similar. But it´s quite long time ago. Strange we dont see more of those test.
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I use rural king brand oil. Does the job fine. Pay for name you pay for advertising and marketing.
 
trd1zz said:
And drive Toyotas 😂
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I really like the 2003 to 2008, and 2011 to 2013 Toyota Corolla LE's.
They have the bullet proof 1.8 Liter engines with the bullet proof 4 speed automatic transmissions (non CVT's).

They are super reliable and they seem easily able to reach 300k miles with minimal repairs.

Also a lot of retirees drive Toyotas. They do the math and realize the cost of ownership is very low over the long term
with minimal repairs and 40 MPG in some models.
 
Bill7 said:
I really like the 2003 to 2008, and 2011 to 2013 Toyota Corolla LE's.
They have the bullet proof 1.8 Liter engines with the bullet proof 4 speed automatic transmissions (non CVT's).

They are super reliable and they seem easily able to reach 300k miles with minimal repairs.

Also a lot of retirees drive Toyotas. They do the math and realize the cost of ownership is very low over the long term
with minimal repairs and 40 MPG in some models.
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Civics are just as reliable and get better MPG as well. (I average close to 50 MPG in the warm months and even right now in the cold I’m averaging 42)
 
Patman said:
Civics are just as reliable and get better MPG as well. (I average close to 50 MPG in the warm months and even right now in the cold I’m averaging 42)
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I am a big fan of Hondas - They are nimble, fun to drive vehicles, with leading edge engine designs. I own 2 Honda Odyssey's myself, and at one time I owned 4 of them at the same time. I used to own a 1988 Honda Civic 4 door sedan. I've always wanted one of those 2 door hatchback classic civics from the mid 1980's. They have quite a history and legacy.

The one differentiating factor I see between Toyotas and Hondas is their reliability between 200k and 300k miles.
I've seen so many Toyotas at 300k miles that look like new cars (perfect paint, smooth driving suspension, etc).

My friend owns a 2010 Toyota Camry LE, looks in pristine condition with 300k miles.
It's still very reliable for him and he takes it on long trips without worry.

Civics do have similar reliability, and they are very nice cars.
 
Bill7 said:
Warren oils are typically all I use, except right after a used car purchase, where I do four 5,000 mile oil drain/fills
with Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. After that, the car will get a steady diet of SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W-30 for the rest of it's life.

I refuse to use OEM ATF fluid (like Honda ATF-DW1 or Toyota ATF WS), as they are semi-synthetic fluids that can't take the heat.
Valvoline Maxlife Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic ATF is the only ATF I use.
Click to expand...
Ok
 
Carlostrece said:
I like cheap and medium priced oils. It seems like maybe the mid priced oils might offer better results, but that's only a maybe.

Expensive oils might offer better results, but that's only a maybe. Even if they are maybe marginally better, it's not enough to justify cost.
Click to expand...
If in doubt, maybe change it sooner
 
Patman said:
Civics are just as reliable and get better MPG as well. (I average close to 50 MPG in the warm months and even right now in the cold I’m averaging 42)
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Probably the winter blend gasoline causing the 16% drop in gas mileage plus a longer warm up time while you clean the snow off the windshield.
I’m above freezing most of the time where I live and see a significant drop in fuel efficiency with winter blend Diesel.
 
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