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uoa`s on mobil-1 0W-30
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Originally Posted By: buster
Of course there is a relationship between HT/HS and wear but it depends on the engine type and among other things.
2.6 is the lowest HT/HS currently allowed. You "may" trade-off "some" wear protection but in modern engines oils can have a HT/HS as low as 2.6 w/o issues. So how am I "waaaaay off"?
I'm sure you remember the test by GM using the Buick 3.8 with different HTHS values. Raising it by 1.5 resulted in 1/5 the wear in the rod and main bearings.
Of course there is a relationship between HT/HS and wear but it depends on the engine type and among other things.
2.6 is the lowest HT/HS currently allowed. You "may" trade-off "some" wear protection but in modern engines oils can have a HT/HS as low as 2.6 w/o issues. So how am I "waaaaay off"?
I'm sure you remember the test by GM using the Buick 3.8 with different HTHS values. Raising it by 1.5 resulted in 1/5 the wear in the rod and main bearings.
Just stating a fact. Many of you cant help but turn these threads into a weight issue, and then the used oil analysis come out.
Fact is, if you run PP, Mobil, Amsoil and Castrol, of the recommended weight and a sensible OCI, the engine is gonna last longer than you'll own it.
Fact is, if you run PP, Mobil, Amsoil and Castrol, of the recommended weight and a sensible OCI, the engine is gonna last longer than you'll own it.
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Originally Posted By: elwaylite
Just stating a fact. Many of you cant help but turn these threads into a weight issue, and then the used oil analysis come out.
Fact is, if you run PP, Mobil, Amsoil and Castrol, of the recommended weight and a sensible OCI, the engine is gonna last longer than you'll own it.
What are you talking about, kind sir? Castrol 0w30, Amsoil S2K 0w30, Redline 0w30 are not low HTHS oils. I believe the question is not whether their 0w rated oils, but the quality of their ingredients.
Just stating a fact. Many of you cant help but turn these threads into a weight issue, and then the used oil analysis come out.
Fact is, if you run PP, Mobil, Amsoil and Castrol, of the recommended weight and a sensible OCI, the engine is gonna last longer than you'll own it.
What are you talking about, kind sir? Castrol 0w30, Amsoil S2K 0w30, Redline 0w30 are not low HTHS oils. I believe the question is not whether their 0w rated oils, but the quality of their ingredients.
Look, when there is a 0w / 5w / 10w or any other kind of thread, the same usual suspects get into it.
Just gets old, especially when you know the motives.
Unsubscribing now, YAWN....
Just gets old, especially when you know the motives.
Unsubscribing now, YAWN....
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
Look, when there is a 0w / 5w / 10w or any other kind of thread, the same usual suspects get into it.
Just gets old, especially when you know the motives.
Unsubscribing now, YAWN....
YOU are the only one turning it into this. Show me where anyone said a thing about the oil weight... You're right, it gets old, people like yourself trying to turn this into another thick vs thin battle.
Look, when there is a 0w / 5w / 10w or any other kind of thread, the same usual suspects get into it.
Just gets old, especially when you know the motives.
Unsubscribing now, YAWN....
YOU are the only one turning it into this. Show me where anyone said a thing about the oil weight... You're right, it gets old, people like yourself trying to turn this into another thick vs thin battle.
Originally Posted By: buster
You have to remember people that viscosity is one factor. HT/HS is one factor. There is no such thing as a "one size is best" when it comes to oil. Once you accept that, you can then move on.
Of course. To tell you the truth, I'm not too worried about 100C viscosity as long as oil pressure is ok. I do however put a lot of weight into HTHS, especially with the studies on it. We get too caught up in the "it's the entire package, not just one factor" and forget that some single factors are in fact very important with HTHS being one of them.
You have to remember people that viscosity is one factor. HT/HS is one factor. There is no such thing as a "one size is best" when it comes to oil. Once you accept that, you can then move on.
Of course. To tell you the truth, I'm not too worried about 100C viscosity as long as oil pressure is ok. I do however put a lot of weight into HTHS, especially with the studies on it. We get too caught up in the "it's the entire package, not just one factor" and forget that some single factors are in fact very important with HTHS being one of them.
True, but if most OEM's are specifying 20 grade oils for most cars today and engines are lasting longer then they ever have, I don't see any issues. Obviously if you are towing something or racing your car, you may want to consider something more robust.
As Redline's chemist said, there are always trade-offs when it comes to oil formulating.
As Redline's chemist said, there are always trade-offs when it comes to oil formulating.
Originally Posted By: buster
True, but if most OEM's are specifying 20 grade oils for most cars today and engines are lasting longer then they ever have, I don't see any issues.
So are you happy with just the observation, or are you curious as to the mechanics behind it?
True, but if most OEM's are specifying 20 grade oils for most cars today and engines are lasting longer then they ever have, I don't see any issues.
So are you happy with just the observation, or are you curious as to the mechanics behind it?
Originally Posted By: element_42
Originally Posted By: buster
True, but if most OEM's are specifying 20 grade oils for most cars today and engines are lasting longer then they ever have, I don't see any issues.
So are you happy with just the observation, or are you curious as to the mechanics behind it?
Both. The observation suggests using what is called for by the OEM is fine. For the average consumer, there is no real scientific way to counter that other then UOA, has it's limitations.
The mechanics behind have been discussed a lot on here. Improved metallurgy, manufacturing precision and better quality oils.
Originally Posted By: buster
True, but if most OEM's are specifying 20 grade oils for most cars today and engines are lasting longer then they ever have, I don't see any issues.
So are you happy with just the observation, or are you curious as to the mechanics behind it?
Both. The observation suggests using what is called for by the OEM is fine. For the average consumer, there is no real scientific way to counter that other then UOA, has it's limitations.
The mechanics behind have been discussed a lot on here. Improved metallurgy, manufacturing precision and better quality oils.
What was the original question? Oh yeah, Mobil 1 0w30 used oil analysis...
Here is my most recent oil change with my Ranger. The older UOA in the report was regular old Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic.
Here is my most recent oil change with my Ranger. The older UOA in the report was regular old Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic.
If the recommended weight is xW30, then replace 1 quart 0W30 with 15W50 would thicken up a little for your Arizona summer.
coo, I'm just not really sure how these oils mix with each other. Since their from the same company you would figure the formulations would be about the same but I guess its all really in the detergents and anti-wear additives they choose for eash. I've heard the 15W-50 is a really good anti-wear oil which I think the 0w30 could benefit from. we'll C how my test results come back from Blackstone with just 0W-30.
The safest in mixing oils of different weights is same brand and same type, synthetic of brand x with synthetic of same brand x.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
If the recommended weight is xW30, then replace 1 quart 0W30 with 15W50 would thicken up a little for your Arizona summer.
and give a boost in zinc..
If the recommended weight is xW30, then replace 1 quart 0W30 with 15W50 would thicken up a little for your Arizona summer.
and give a boost in zinc..
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
Look, when there is a 0w / 5w / 10w or any other kind of thread, the same usual suspects get into it.
Just gets old, especially when you know the motives.
Unsubscribing now, YAWN....
YOU are the only one turning it into this. Show me where anyone said a thing about the oil weight... You're right, it gets old, people like yourself trying to turn this into another thick vs thin battle.
Wow sorry guy`s,I didnt mean to turn this into an argument.Were all brothers here,and we all have our own opinions (myself included)I guess we just have to try and respect the other opinions a little more.(again,myself included)
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
Look, when there is a 0w / 5w / 10w or any other kind of thread, the same usual suspects get into it.
Just gets old, especially when you know the motives.
Unsubscribing now, YAWN....
YOU are the only one turning it into this. Show me where anyone said a thing about the oil weight... You're right, it gets old, people like yourself trying to turn this into another thick vs thin battle.
Wow sorry guy`s,I didnt mean to turn this into an argument.Were all brothers here,and we all have our own opinions (myself included)I guess we just have to try and respect the other opinions a little more.(again,myself included)
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
If the recommended weight is xW30, then replace 1 quart 0W30 with 15W50 would thicken up a little for your Arizona summer.
and give a boost in zinc..
And a boost in that ZDDP(SP) stuff! sounds good to me. 3rd fill with full synthetic in my car will be with 4 quarts 0-30 and 1 quart 15W-50.
Anyone have a reccomendation on (CHEAPER) filter that flow as good, if not better than the Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter? I only plan on leaving the oil in for a max of 5,000 miles as I will have one road course track day on the oil towards the end of the 5,000 miles.
Thanks
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
If the recommended weight is xW30, then replace 1 quart 0W30 with 15W50 would thicken up a little for your Arizona summer.
and give a boost in zinc..
And a boost in that ZDDP(SP) stuff! sounds good to me. 3rd fill with full synthetic in my car will be with 4 quarts 0-30 and 1 quart 15W-50.
Anyone have a reccomendation on (CHEAPER) filter that flow as good, if not better than the Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter? I only plan on leaving the oil in for a max of 5,000 miles as I will have one road course track day on the oil towards the end of the 5,000 miles.
Thanks
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