UA80E / UA80F - Toyota/Lexus Direct shift 8 Speed

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by robd
Thanks,I'll keep everyone posted.

I'd be interested in hearing to see if it was a bad batch of transmissions or it is something that doesn't appear until later.

 

[robd]

Hopefully just a learning curve and the bugs were worked out. There were some updates and I'm hoping now with this transaxle being out for over two years and a lot of overall accumulated miles it should be fairly reliable. I'm also wondering if now with 8 gears, a transmission is naturally going to shift more and hunt more than a five or six speed gear box accelerating or decelerating to the same speed. Add to that multiple lockup's of the torque converter clutch through several gears may take getting use to. All prices paid to get better efficiency. Smoothest gear transmission I ever had was a 1965 Impala with a two speed powerglide transmission. Shifted only once and no lock up torque converter. Only a properly operating cvt is smoother.

 

[DMOntario]

Any chance do you have an image of transmission thermostat located just under the radiator for the UA80E Transmission?

Thanks ....very helpful information.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted by DMOntario
Any chance do you have an image of transmission thermostat located just under the radiator for the UA80E Transmission?

Thanks ....very helpful information.

I might have this at home as I printed off a bunch of information when I had the Highlander. Let me have a look when I get off the road today.

Edit: Although if you look under the front below the radiator there is a square hole in the black plastic splash shield where it is on the drivers side.

 

[StevieC]

I looked for it and can't seem to find where I put it. I'll look again this weekend.

 

[Bailes1992]

I suspect this unit is the same unit that Volvo use in their 8 speed applications.

I'd love to know if Toyota use the same 6 speed that's in my V40 (Aisin Warner TF71-SC) as information is very thin on the ground and I want to change out the oil at 20-25k.

 

[StevieC]

You can get a 2 day Toyota Tech Info account for $20 USD and download everything you could want on their vehicles.
https://techinfo.toyota.com

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted by irad
Could you just put in as much as what drained out?


If you drained it cold and refilled with the same amount of fresh, cold ATF, I don't see how you could possibly change the level from where you started, but I guess I get people's concerns here.

Toyota certainly doesn't make the 'by the book' process easy.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Originally Posted by JTK
Originally Posted by irad
Could you just put in as much as what drained out?


If you drained it cold and refilled with the same amount of fresh, cold ATF, I don't see how you could possibly change the level from where you started, but I guess I get people's concerns here.

Toyota certainly doesn't make the 'by the book' process easy.



From the OP's initial post it seems you could if you used the exact same fluid and not universal ATF.

 

[Badri Butkhuzi]

The UA80E (2wd) / UA80F (AWD/4WD) found in later RX-350's and Toyota Highlanders is an 8 speed multi-lock-up transmission and it's considered "Sealed for life" with no serviceable filter and no dip stick. Just a tad over 8 quarts is required to do a full exchange and just over 3 quarts to to do just whats in the pan (if it had one).

The transmission is emptied by taking out the #10 Hex bolt on the bottom of the transmission. Some fluid comes out and then you need a #6 long Hex to take out the plastic straw located inside the same hole to release the remaining fluid from the bottom of the transmission.

It comes filled with Toyota WS fluid by default which can run at 200F regularly not towing. The only time they recommend a change is in Severe duty situation which then it should be changed at 100,000 miles (160,000km) - Yeah like that was going to happen.

Once you have drained all the fluid you put the straw back in the drain hole just hand tight. Then fill the transmission using the WS bolt plug on the side of the transmission located behind a cover inside the drivers wheel well. This small cover is moved out of the way by removing the 2 bolts (10mm). It will take about 3 quarts. Fill until it spills out of the hole in the bottom where the straw is.

You also need to press on the end of the transmission thermostat located just under the radiator. There is a hole in the skid shield. Press on the end of it with a flat screw driver and then insert a small pin to lock it in the open position. This is necessary as the external cooler is only open to the ATF fluid cooling circuit when the fluid is at higher temperatures. It is necessary to make sure the external cooler is also full of fluid when correctly refilling the transmission as per Toyota Tech Info procedures.

Start the vehicle and put it in Drive with your foot on the brake for 10 seconds, then reverse for 10 seconds to fill the circuits with fluid. Then back in park. Then fill the transmission further until it spills out the straw again with the vehicle running still. Then with your scantool or Scangauge II with 4.42 software or higher and X-Gauge code for the Transmission Pan temperature. Wait until the fluid reaches 104F and reinstall the drain plug. Your transmission is now full to the correct level. Do not exceed 113F before putting the plug back in the bottom of the transmission or it will be under full. This temperature changes rather quickly in hot weather so be quick about it.

This is has to be done with the body of the vehicle level off the ground so you will need jack stands for the rear and front of the vehicle to do it properly. It's also best to do it when the vehicle is cold because it will quickly heat the transmission fluid back up over the 104F really quickly thanks to the coolant to ATF heat exchanger.

Simply removing fluid from the pan and pouring the exact same amount of fluid back into the transmission can have undesired consequences due to fluid expansion rates differing from Toyota WS official fluid and some other brand that meets this specification which is why it's best to fill and check using the procedure above. Toyota advises always using this method for refilling the transmission anyway.

If anyone has this transmission and has questions about this change procedure feel free to send me a PM.

I will tell you after having done this today on my UA80F transmission the Toyota WS fluid leaves a lot to be desired in terms of shift quality and I would highly advise using some other brand that meets the WS fluid specification. I chose Amsoil Fuel Efficient Vehicle formula which is meant to replace WS fluid, because I'm a fan of their transmission oils and have used them in the past with excellent results but there may be other quality manufacturers out there just as good.

Sorry I didn't think to take pictures of the process but when I drain/refill again I will take pictures.

I needed: Washer Planetary Ca - 35738-48050 - For Toyota Transmission UA80F; UA80E

Advise someone where to buy new or used, or does anyone have this transmission in parts and sell this part to me, or where it can be made or restored (if possible)

 

[Hillbilly Deluxe]

Wow. This thread is one of the most informative I've ever read on the internet!

I'm a big Toyota fan, it's the only make we have.

We traded a 2011 Sequoia in for a new 2019 Highlander LE Plus in September 2019. Yes, looking back, I wish I had not made that decision but it's all worked out to the good. Neither me nor my wife was ever 100% happy with the Highlander, it was her daily driver and she didn't have many complaints outside the HORRIBLE transmission.

You would make a turn, say from one road to another under speed. While coasting through 3/4 of the turn and then getting back in the accelerator, it suddenly felt like the engine was fully retarded or you'd just been hooked up to an aircraft carrier. There was NO acceleration for 1-2 seconds. The vehicle simply would not accelerate but continue to slow, then.....wham! It would suddenly start speeding up, all the while your foot was getting deeper into the throttle.

Other than that and it was kinda tight side to side for me and front to back, it DID ride extremely smoooooth, got great fuel mileage, seemed to be easy on oil, tires wore extremely even, decent visibility and would carry 4 decent-sized adults comfortably.

I hated paying for the lane keep assist when we turned it off permanently before we left the dealer, always turned radar cruise off, hated the auto start-stop. You have to pay for these things, whether you want them or not. But.....thanks to the idiocy of 2021, Carvana paid me within $215 of what we paid for it new, so it's someone else's problem now. I am now the proud owner of a vehicle I have longed for for many years - an LX570. A real SUV with a real engine and transmission.

Anyway, wanted to share my horrible experience with the ridiculous 8-speed transmission and it's programming. Never again. I also want to thank the OP for the TIS link and while I never plan on owning an 8-speed trans again, that fluid maintenance write-up was the best I've ever seen about any Toyota trans. I'm a huge believer in maintenancing the transmissions, no matter what some service advisor or manufacturer says.

I do change the trans fluid in my Toyotas (and filter/gaskets) - both 5.7L/6-speed chassis and the 2015 RX350. I use the Amsoil OE fluid and have not had any problems. Yes, I use something else other than Toyota WS OEM fluid in my LX570, my Tundra and RX350. I do use OEM filters/gaskets in the Tundra and LX, I've been using a Napa filter/gasket kit in my RX350.

I have no record of the trans fluid being changed in my RX350 until I did it at 165k miles shortly after I bought it. I dropped the pan, cleaned it and the magnets, changed the filter and gasket and refilled. A week later I did a spill-n-fill and I plan on dropping the pan again in the next few weeks to clean the pan/magnets, replace the filter and gasket again. I think it will be good for 100k miles or so from then.

I also have no record of the fluid being serviced in the LX until I bought it at 109k miles. I dropped the pan, cleaned it and the magnets. Fluid looked good, not too much swarf on the magnets. I didn't change the filter because I want to do a couple of drain and fills, then drop the pan again, change the filter and refill. I first changed the fluid in my Tundra at 65k miles, then a shop did a drain and fill at 130k. I plan on doing a couple of drain and fills and then a pan drop and filter replacement soon.