2020 Tundra: Drain & fill Trans/Transfer case odd things

Unless you are referring to the puck cooler, you only pin that if you have added a transmission cooler. The 2020 did not have the factory installed trans cooler. It was deleted by Toyota I believe starting in 2020 in their infinite wisdom.
Ok. Did not know that.
 
Ok. Did not know that.
I believe the external air/oil cooler was deleted in 2019. What’s left is a coolant/oil cooler “puck” (similar in design to the engine oil cooler) that sits on the side of the transmission where the thermostat is on earlier models.
 
I believe the external air/oil cooler was deleted in 2019. What’s left is a coolant/oil cooler “puck” (similar in design to the engine oil cooler) that sits on the side of the transmission where the thermostat is on earlier models.
Recently. I had to check the fluid in my LX570, it has the bypass plunger, from which you use a 1.5mm allen key to hold open during the check.

In thinking on it......

I replaced the radiator, I guess I am probably low on atf, being as the cooler in the radiator would have been empty. And maybe the external cooler. Hmm, not good, glad I joined this conversation to realize my own error. Glad i have me plenty of Maxlife ATF on the shelf

I reckon you have the plunger?
 
Yep I started a whole thread confused about the Tundra trans temp thing. At the end of the day I believe it's AB60F vs .... ? [the other one].

AB60F is the lower temp range and OP's initial check temperature was correct.

Typically you drain about 4 to 4.5. Add 5 to 5.5 then do the proper procedure. Be sure to shift between gears with foot on brake once started.

I'm personally not in favor of the dash light method because it's more up-to-cab/down-to-the-trans clamoring about, but whatever floats your boat. I prefer a wireless scanner and just stand under the truck on the lift.

I don't have good explanations for OP's findings.

How's a dipstick looking now??? :D
 
I believe you are correct.

Yep I started a whole thread confused about the Tundra trans temp thing. At the end of the day I believe it's AB60F vs .... ? [the other one].

AB60F is the lower temp range and OP's initial check temperature was correct.

Typically you drain about 4 to 4.5. Add 5 to 5.5 then do the proper procedure. Be sure to shift between gears with foot on brake once started.

I'm personally not in favor of the dash light method because it's more up-to-cab/down-to-the-trans clamoring about, but whatever floats your boat. I prefer a wireless scanner and just stand under the truck on the lift.

I don't have good explanations for OP's findings.

How's a dipstick looking now??? :D
I'm thinking my cheap bucket isn't marked all that accurately. When I rechecked yesterday, for all intents and purposes I just started the fill/check procedure from scratch. I'm confident it is correct now.

I think this is probably a good example for those folks that swear by the method of measuring what you drain out and then just replacing that amount back in has it's flaws. 1.-The amount in there may not be correct to begin with; 2.-Your "measuring" container may not be as accurate as you think; 3.-Your fluids need to be the same temp to do that accurately.

The ScanGauge III I have fortunately has a very long cable that easily reaches the underside of the truck, so I was able to monitor the temp easily with it. I highly recommend anyone get one; they do a lot of other useful things as well and I think they are worth the money. One use like this and it pretty much pays for itself.

I agree that using some type of scanner is far better/easier than jumping the obd with a wire and watching for flashing lights on the dash, but it works if that's all you have. I would make sure you have some 7.5 amp low profile mini fuses on hand though just in case you blow the OBD port fuse. I've seen it happen on a friend's 2017 Tundra and is why I bought the ScanGauge.
 
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