Turbo 2.4L Nissan Recommendations?

[Nathan]

Hey Everyone,

I'm new to this board but I've been researching oil through the Oil Bible and also looking at manufacturers specs.

I have a Nissan 240sx with the factory 2.4L DOHC engine with shim and bucket valves.

It has approximately 130 000 miles on it and I have put a T3/T4 turbo on it at 10psi making 300whp or 350 crank hp. There is no oil cooler. Users often see temps of 250*F in this application, however I cannot confirm due to no oil temp gauge.

I dumped in some PP 5w-40 today, just wondering what would be a nice compromise between fuel economy and HTHS protection?

Is Euro 5w-40 ok for this application?

Thanks,
Nate

 

[Camu Mahubah]

I was thinking or recommending a 5w40 until I read you have dumped 5w40 in there already... PP is good!

 

[TallPaul]

I would go with Redline 5w30.

 

[chet2]

i would go with a synthetic at the proper visc in owners manual

 

[HardbodyLoyalist]

I would use an oil with a high HTHS rating.

Or, since most oils don't have the HTHS number listed on the bottle, look for an oil that meets a spec that requires high HTHS, such as ACEA A3/B3.

 

[MrCritical]

Nathan, mods have you done to this 130k engine to make it able to handle 10lbs boost? I can see an SR20 handling it, but a 2.4?

 

[buster]

PP is a good choice. I'd use that or Amsoil.

 

[Cooper]

Quote:

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i would go with a synthetic at the proper visc in owners manual

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Why? the car is obviously modified to produce more torque and horsepower...and the turbo. The owner's manual is recommending an oil for this setup? I don't think so. Why would someone use an oil speced for a 175 hp motor in their 300+ hp motor. Not to say that it won't work, but I would get an UOA on the PP Euro first, and if the motor likes it, keep using it. You may get higher wear with a lower vis. oil. PP Euro seems to be a good oil from what I have seen. I ran it in a VW VR6 and it ran okay, didn't do an UOA though, so I guess it doesn't matter. I hate posts that act like the owner is stupid. " Just put what the owners manual says....duh!!" What would this forum be for if we all just did what the owners manual stated?

 

[zrxkawboy]

5W40 sounds great...that's what I would use.

Jeff

 

[glenncof]

Yea, the PP 5W40 Euro looks well spec'd.

Also consider PP 5W30 Euro. It meets the A3 spec and VW 503.01 per data sheet. Part of the 503.01 spec includes Audi Fuel Economy test (PV1451) which may rule out _W40 often.

Do some research on the 503.01 (not just 503.00) and I think you'll agree it "may" be the best spec for you. Not many meet 503.01.

Required for shorter OCI's ??? I don't know but you have little engineering to rely on. VW 502/503.00 is a good fallback with short OCI. The 502/503 are in part based on VW T-4 engine test.

M1 0W40 Euro does meet 503.01, $6 at WM, seems like a good choice other than what I have read about sheering (true?).

The history on VW spec's is interesting.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Most Nissan TTZ guys use M1 15W50 or a syn 20W50. Sounds like a beast of a car you have there!

 

[e36'n]

GC 0w30 or Rotella 10w-30.

 

[Nathan]

Thank you all for the advice (except chet2 lol wth). I just fired the motor up and have a leak at the oil pan gasket so I now have the chance to do some more research and try something else for more than 5 minutes *laughs*..

MrCritical: The motor is stock but its all in the tuning

I have had my previous motor up to 13psi but I was stupid and broke the timing chain on a clutch kick.

GlennCof: I dont understand a lot of what you wrote but I believe it points to many hours behind the screen. hehehe...

AquariusCSM: That oil seems a little thick for me. Although it's probably safe, the summer here is all but done and I'd like something that flows well around 40*F.

e36'n: I will research those oils, thank you.

From what I'm gathering I made a decent choice with the PP 5w-40 but perhaps I could get away with a 0 to 10w-30 with shorter OCIs.

Cheers,
Nate

 

[e36'n]

You're right, it's all in the tuning.

What does the owners manual spec for it. I use oils that would be considered on the thinner side of the factory specs, so you really can consider almost any "good" oil. I use Rotella 10w30 right now because it's ~$16 for 4 litres and it's supposed to be one ---- of an oil. 249c flash point for out Canadian version.

 

[Nathan]

e36'n:

The manual calls for anywhere from a 5w-30 to a 10w-40!

Hmmmmmmmm...

I'd like to try the Rotella as well. Are you using the new CJ-4 Rotella T? Where are you sourcing it from?

 

[e36'n]

Quote:

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e36'n:

The manual calls for anywhere from a 5w-30 to a 10w-40!

Hmmmmmmmm...

I'd like to try the Rotella as well. Are you using the new CJ-4 Rotella T? Where are you sourcing it from?

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Yup, I'm using the 10w30 Rotella T CJ-4. I picked mine up at the Finning agricultural centre in Edmonton. Where are you located?

Here's the "where to buy" for shell/rotella in Canada: http://www.shell.ca/home/content/ca-en/shell_for_businesses/bulk_fuel/bulk_agents.html

 

[Nathan]

Thanks for you help!
I am in Abbotsford, BC. About 20 minutes from the closest Finning dealer.

 

[unDummy]

I regularly ran 5w40 in my NON-turbo KA24's. So, its not too thick. That means I was thumbing my nose at my owners manual that required 5w30.

A strategically mounted dual-remote oil filter kit can decrease oil temps and increase oil capacity. A couple 1-1.5 quart oil filters can act like a 2nd oil sump.

In the winter, 0w40 should be considered. And, the 10w or 15w--40wts are good choices. Stick with synthetics and reasonable OCI's if you aren't monitoring oil temps.

 

[Nathan]

Thank you for sharing unDummy.

e36'n: The Rotella T is $61CDN for a 20L bucket. Is that similar to what you paid? Seems like I could change it 3 times as often as everything else (Mobil, PP, etc..).

Nathan

 

[MrCritical]

Nathan what was your previous engine, and did it have 130k before you turboed it?