I've been running M1 0W40 in my o8 turbo charge S60. Two uoas suggest that it is performing extremely well over a 7500 oci. Moreover, Doug Hillary, widely considered to be one of the most knowledgeable people here, recommended it highly. While it's hard to know the composition of the base stock for sure, many believe that it is one of the M1 products that still contains considerable PAO. I realize that this is contrary to another opinion in this thread. Important to know that there is more than one opinion on that point.
RECOMMENDATION REQUIRED - 1998 Volvo 2.4l Turbo
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Originally Posted By: teddyboy
I've been running M1 0W40 in my o8 turbo charge S60. Two uoas suggest that it is performing extremely well over a 7500 oci. Moreover, Doug Hillary, widely considered to be one of the most knowledgeable people here, recommended it highly. While it's hard to know the composition of the base stock for sure, many believe that it is one of the M1 products that still contains considerable PAO. I realize that this is contrary to another opinion in this thread. Important to know that there is more than one opinion on that point.
Thanks for that info. That 0w-40 does sound nice. I'll probably do OCI of less than 5k or about every six months as my daughter won't be putting on a lot of miles. I like to get the winter oil out in the spring and vice-versa.
Sounds like German Castrol or the M1 Turbo Diesel oil could also be good choices?
I've been running M1 0W40 in my o8 turbo charge S60. Two uoas suggest that it is performing extremely well over a 7500 oci. Moreover, Doug Hillary, widely considered to be one of the most knowledgeable people here, recommended it highly. While it's hard to know the composition of the base stock for sure, many believe that it is one of the M1 products that still contains considerable PAO. I realize that this is contrary to another opinion in this thread. Important to know that there is more than one opinion on that point.
Thanks for that info. That 0w-40 does sound nice. I'll probably do OCI of less than 5k or about every six months as my daughter won't be putting on a lot of miles. I like to get the winter oil out in the spring and vice-versa.
Sounds like German Castrol or the M1 Turbo Diesel oil could also be good choices?
Any other insight?
My suggestion: Use either Pennzoil Platinum, Ultra or M1's 5W30 or 5W30 EP. They're all HTO-06 approved, which is Honda's spec for turbo charged engines. The oil temps on the B5244T just aren't that high, and in my experience they just don't need a super-high hths oil based on oil temps.
The high-boost 2.3's are a totally different matter, and I'd only run a an ACEA A3 oil in that engine. Ultra 5W30 would probably be my first choice, but you won't go wrong with any of those oils.
Given the age of the vehicle and the fact that you're noticing some consumption, I'd do the PCV system on this fairly soon if it hasn't been done. Throwing thicker oil at it probably isn't going to help the consumption problem, and if you're smelling it that's probably an even more likely sign that the flame trap needs to be done.
The high-boost 2.3's are a totally different matter, and I'd only run a an ACEA A3 oil in that engine. Ultra 5W30 would probably be my first choice, but you won't go wrong with any of those oils.
Given the age of the vehicle and the fact that you're noticing some consumption, I'd do the PCV system on this fairly soon if it hasn't been done. Throwing thicker oil at it probably isn't going to help the consumption problem, and if you're smelling it that's probably an even more likely sign that the flame trap needs to be done.
My wife has a 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T turbo and the OCI is 7500 according to the owners manual. Here in New Jersey it rarely gets close 0 degrees in winter so I go with either Mobil 1 5W-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 and switch over to 10W-30 grade in summer. For your weather the 0W-30 or 0W-40 in winter is what is needed.
Originally Posted By: jadnhm
I just found the 0W-30 T5 for $24/4L at the local NAPA Traction center! WOW!
so my price chart now looks like this:
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 $7.75/L (4L $31
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-40 $8.25/L(4L $33) (maybe cheaper at Traction, didn't check)
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-30 $6.00/L (4L $24)
- Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 $8.40/L (5L $42)
- Castrol Syntec 0W-30 $9/L
- Mobil 1 0W-40 $10/L
I think the other grades of Rotella will probably be cheap there too. I'm really impressed with this oil and it's pricing. I will probably be going with that, either in 0W-30 or 0W-40 T5 for winter, and probably 5W-40 T6 for summer.
I'll report back here sometime in the future to fill everyone in on any fuel mileage changes and/or running problems/concerns while I'm trying this stuff out.
Also I recently found that my city, little as it is, has one of the Shell "Express" UOA test centers and I might be able to get my oil tested locally too. If that's the case I'll try to get some of this stuff tested and report back on that as well.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice.
I would just run T5 0W30 year round. You are not going to have to worry about the issues that Volvo was concerned about with a Conventional 5W30. That 0W30 is designed to stand up to the gear train on the front of a heavy diesel without excessive shearing. You will get some initially then it should stabilize. Besides most likely that oil is on the heavy end for a 30 weight compared to most car oils.
I would test the oil in 5,000 km steps starting at 10,000 km. I suspect it will go 20,000 km but it might not go as far as I suspect or might surprise me and go 25,000 km.
I just found the 0W-30 T5 for $24/4L at the local NAPA Traction center! WOW!
so my price chart now looks like this:
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 $7.75/L (4L $31
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-40 $8.25/L(4L $33) (maybe cheaper at Traction, didn't check)
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-30 $6.00/L (4L $24)
- Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 $8.40/L (5L $42)
- Castrol Syntec 0W-30 $9/L
- Mobil 1 0W-40 $10/L
I think the other grades of Rotella will probably be cheap there too. I'm really impressed with this oil and it's pricing. I will probably be going with that, either in 0W-30 or 0W-40 T5 for winter, and probably 5W-40 T6 for summer.
I'll report back here sometime in the future to fill everyone in on any fuel mileage changes and/or running problems/concerns while I'm trying this stuff out.
Also I recently found that my city, little as it is, has one of the Shell "Express" UOA test centers and I might be able to get my oil tested locally too. If that's the case I'll try to get some of this stuff tested and report back on that as well.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice.
I would just run T5 0W30 year round. You are not going to have to worry about the issues that Volvo was concerned about with a Conventional 5W30. That 0W30 is designed to stand up to the gear train on the front of a heavy diesel without excessive shearing. You will get some initially then it should stabilize. Besides most likely that oil is on the heavy end for a 30 weight compared to most car oils.
I would test the oil in 5,000 km steps starting at 10,000 km. I suspect it will go 20,000 km but it might not go as far as I suspect or might surprise me and go 25,000 km.
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Originally Posted By: Gene K
Originally Posted By: jadnhm
I just found the 0W-30 T5 for $24/4L at the local NAPA Traction center! WOW!
so my price chart now looks like this:
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 $7.75/L (4L $31
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-40 $8.25/L(4L $33) (maybe cheaper at Traction, didn't check)
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-30 $6.00/L (4L $24)
- Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 $8.40/L (5L $42)
- Castrol Syntec 0W-30 $9/L
- Mobil 1 0W-40 $10/L
I think the other grades of Rotella will probably be cheap there too. I'm really impressed with this oil and it's pricing. I will probably be going with that, either in 0W-30 or 0W-40 T5 for winter, and probably 5W-40 T6 for summer.
I'll report back here sometime in the future to fill everyone in on any fuel mileage changes and/or running problems/concerns while I'm trying this stuff out.
Also I recently found that my city, little as it is, has one of the Shell "Express" UOA test centers and I might be able to get my oil tested locally too. If that's the case I'll try to get some of this stuff tested and report back on that as well.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice.
I would just run T5 0W30 year round. You are not going to have to worry about the issues that Volvo was concerned about with a Conventional 5W30. That 0W30 is designed to stand up to the gear train on the front of a heavy diesel without excessive shearing. You will get some initially then it should stabilize. Besides most likely that oil is on the heavy end for a 30 weight compared to most car oils.
I would test the oil in 5,000 km steps starting at 10,000 km. I suspect it will go 20,000 km but it might not go as far as I suspect or might surprise me and go 25,000 km.
Diesel engines have lower turbocharger temperatures when compared to gas turbochargers.
This is why no matter what the manual says, I find that conventional oils always leave varnish in a turbo.
M1 0w40 looks best to me for this car.
Originally Posted By: jadnhm
I just found the 0W-30 T5 for $24/4L at the local NAPA Traction center! WOW!
so my price chart now looks like this:
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 $7.75/L (4L $31
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-40 $8.25/L(4L $33) (maybe cheaper at Traction, didn't check)
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-30 $6.00/L (4L $24)
- Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 $8.40/L (5L $42)
- Castrol Syntec 0W-30 $9/L
- Mobil 1 0W-40 $10/L
I think the other grades of Rotella will probably be cheap there too. I'm really impressed with this oil and it's pricing. I will probably be going with that, either in 0W-30 or 0W-40 T5 for winter, and probably 5W-40 T6 for summer.
I'll report back here sometime in the future to fill everyone in on any fuel mileage changes and/or running problems/concerns while I'm trying this stuff out.
Also I recently found that my city, little as it is, has one of the Shell "Express" UOA test centers and I might be able to get my oil tested locally too. If that's the case I'll try to get some of this stuff tested and report back on that as well.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice.
I would just run T5 0W30 year round. You are not going to have to worry about the issues that Volvo was concerned about with a Conventional 5W30. That 0W30 is designed to stand up to the gear train on the front of a heavy diesel without excessive shearing. You will get some initially then it should stabilize. Besides most likely that oil is on the heavy end for a 30 weight compared to most car oils.
I would test the oil in 5,000 km steps starting at 10,000 km. I suspect it will go 20,000 km but it might not go as far as I suspect or might surprise me and go 25,000 km.
Diesel engines have lower turbocharger temperatures when compared to gas turbochargers.
This is why no matter what the manual says, I find that conventional oils always leave varnish in a turbo.
M1 0w40 looks best to me for this car.
I am with artificialist...
Check the sig...both Volvos are clean inside (I've had a chance to check...) and are running well with over 40K on the oils named changed at the factory 7500 mile OCI. Further, I've had none of the common Volvo PCV (flame trap) issues on these two cars, with 149K and 126K respectively.
Go synthetic, ACEA A3 as your guide...and avoid all the problems that the Volvo white blocks have when dino is run for too long in a turbo engine...
Here's a great link to the service bulletin (TNN) on "lubrication system contamination cleaning"...we all know it as sludge...
http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/01-23-09/TNN,%20Lubrication%20System%20Contamination%20Cleaning.pdf
The pictures of sludged up volvo engines are not for the faint of heart...but heed this note: Engines subjected to extreme driving conditions are to be filled with ACEA A3/B3, viscosity SAE 5W-30 Synthetic oil.
Straight from Volvo...funny how they don't require synthetic in the OM...only recommend it in the OM...and you can take a look at what I am running...the OM for my cars allows for a 5W40...
Check the sig...both Volvos are clean inside (I've had a chance to check...) and are running well with over 40K on the oils named changed at the factory 7500 mile OCI. Further, I've had none of the common Volvo PCV (flame trap) issues on these two cars, with 149K and 126K respectively.
Go synthetic, ACEA A3 as your guide...and avoid all the problems that the Volvo white blocks have when dino is run for too long in a turbo engine...
Here's a great link to the service bulletin (TNN) on "lubrication system contamination cleaning"...we all know it as sludge...
http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/01-23-09/TNN,%20Lubrication%20System%20Contamination%20Cleaning.pdf
The pictures of sludged up volvo engines are not for the faint of heart...but heed this note: Engines subjected to extreme driving conditions are to be filled with ACEA A3/B3, viscosity SAE 5W-30 Synthetic oil.
Straight from Volvo...funny how they don't require synthetic in the OM...only recommend it in the OM...and you can take a look at what I am running...the OM for my cars allows for a 5W40...
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I directly asked Doug, whom I mentioned earlier in the thread, on the point of GC 0W30 vs M1 0W40. He stated umambiguously that he considered the M1 to be the considerably better oil. Doug's opinion goes a long way with me. When you factor in that M1 0W40 can be had for around $6,50 per quart at Wally World while GC is $8+ at Autozone, it's not much of a decision between those two for me.
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