RECOMMENDATION REQUIRED - 1998 Volvo 2.4l Turbo

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 23, 2010
Messages
31
Location
Moncton, NB, Canada
Hi everyone,

I am new-ish to this forum though I have been reading a fair bit on here in the past.

On most forums I would be reluctant to ask for a specific recommendation like this, but it seems this kind of thing is encouraged here, so I'm going to go for it and hope I'm not going afoul of the conventions.

The car is a 1998 V70 AWD. The engine is a 2.4l turbocharged 5 cylinder gasoline engine, and currently has 210k miles on it.

I have had the car about 2 years and I think I'm the 3rd owner. I have no idea what's been used in this car in the past so I have to assume it's been pretty typical as in 5k oil + filter changes with petroleum oil and probably pretty [censored] filters (there was a NAPA filter (not Gold) on it when I got it - don't know much about those).

The engine runs great, and I recently changed the PCV system so it's breathing well. And I started using the Mann oil filter which I can tell is much better than the Fram I /was/ using.

I can see some varnishing in the top end through the filler cap hole. I will provide a picture if someone asks for it.

I live in NB, Canada, so for ~4 months out of the year it's pretty cold (-10C/14F down to ~-40C/-40F on coldest nights), and in the summer the hottest days get up to about +35C/95F with very high humidity. I live in a small city so it's mixed city and country driving.

I do a lot of short tripping to work and back (I only work a few minutes from home so I head home for dinner break, and come back, so that's 4 x ~5km/3mile trips every day, even in the winter) and usually do a decent sized trip (at least 200km/120miles, sometimes up to 1000km/650miles) once or twice a month.

What I'm looking for is a cost-effective and time-effective program to keep my oil changes down (ie: longer drain intervals) without sacrificing in terms of protection.

I'm especially concerned about a)keeping my turbo healthy and b)engine longevity.

The turbo is water cooled, but the oil is of course expected to bear some of that burden as well. It seems turbos have pretty high requirements in terms of lubrication and cooling so I want to make sure I get this right.

These engines are NOT known for any internal diffuculties, top or bottom end. They sometimes have breathing problems, but as I said I replaced the PCV system completely last year and have had no problems since then. I think the lower evaporation rate of synthetic oil would help this system stay clean longer.

I think what would appeal to me most is changing the oil 2 times a year, in the spring and fall.

Of course I don't want to break the bank either.

I can get Mobil1 at WalMart for their pretty reasonable price, and Canadian Tire often has it on sale for a good price. But the selection (viscosities) at both of these places leaves a lot to be desired.

Syntec and the penzoil and QuakerState synthetic products are available at these places too. And yes I understand these are hydrocrack oils and not true PAO/Ester synthetics - I would be all for using hydrocrack (and shorter OCI) if the price was more reasonable... it's just not worth what they charge for it.

The owner's manual recommends a petrol 5W-30 up to 30C/86F, and petrol 10W-30 or 5W-40 up to 40C/104F. It specifies API SJ, SJ/CF, or SJ/Energy Conserving.

I was really upset to learn about PPD and VII to get petro oils into the lower and higher parts of their multigrade specs, and how fast those additives can be used up and/or sheared away. I think the only way to get proper protection is using a basestock with lower pour point and better HT/HS without needing to go to additives to get into spec. Plus the 0W- oils seem to give great cold performance and fuel economy.

I'm inclined to go for a full synthetic 0W-30 or 0W-40. Maybe like 0W-30 for the winter months and 0W-40 for the winter on my proposed spring/fall OCI schedule.

It seems there's a bit of confusion about what's really going on with Mobil 1 - it definitely uses PAO but maybe it's also partly/mainly hydrocrack?

Would 5W-30 Mobil 1 High-Mileage be a good fit for this application? Even in the winter? Too bad they don't make this in a 0W- oil....

What about using a diesel oil like Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40? The higher TBN to combat short trip acids really interests me, plus the extra ZDDP in diesel oils seems like it would be a great thing for high mileage engines AND turbo'd engines - and mine is both.

Another option along these lines would be the Rotella T 0W-40 diesel oil.

Petro-Canada seems to have some great products too but I can't seem to find it locally yet...

Anyway, any suggestions for things to look into or products to consider would be much appreciated.
 
T6 5w40, Mobil1 Truck 5w40 or PP 5w30 which has the turo approval for the Acura/Honda spec. All have turned in good UOAs up to ~ 7,500 miles in turbo engines
 
Mobil 1 0w40 is a very good oil. The basestocks and additives are actually better than the other Mobil 1 viscosities. The pour point is -65!

Castrol Edge 5w40 has a pour point down to -54, as does Mobil Delvac 1 5w40. Amsoil Diesel 5w40 has a -51 pour point.

I think M1 0w40 is the best bet -- exceptional cold and warm performance with a quality basestock/add pack.
 
Rotella T6 5W-40, or SB 0W-40, would be your best option.

Stout oils, and very easy to get at Canadian Tire.
 
Just to be clear guys :

T6 5w40 is Shell Rotella T65W-40?

Mobil1 Truck 5w40 is Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40?

SB 0W-40 is Shell Rotella T Synthetic Blend 0W-40?

Sorry I don't know what PP 5w30 is?
 
Last edited:
@dparm:

That's interesting - what's better about the M1 0W-40? more PAO? more ZDDP? Is there a thread you can point me to on this?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Rotella T6 5W-40, or SB 0W-40, would be your best option.

Stout oils, and very easy to get at Canadian Tire.

+1
I don't know how hard you drive the car but look at the HTHS numbers on the rotella 0W40 or 5W40 oil vs. mobil 1 0W40 and they score higher. Either mobil 1 or rotella would be fine in practice but I find rotella is cheaper.
 
Originally Posted By: jadnhm
Just to be clear guys :

T6 5w40 is Shell Rotella T65W-40?

Mobil1 Truck 5w40 is Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40?

SB 0W-40 is Shell Rotella T Synthetic Blend 0W-40?

Sorry I don't know what PP 5w30 is?


Right on everything - 'PP' is short for 'Pennzoil Platinum', Pennzoil's synthetic oil (only one in Canada, until they bring in Ultra...)

The Rotella product used to be called 'SB' for synthetic blend, but it is now called 'T5', and it is actually a full-synthetic oil.
 
dparm mentioned a lot of great options.

One more is to use a different oil in winter than summer.
A 0-30 in winter and a 0-40 or 5-40 in summer sounds about right for your extreme temperatures.
 
I'd use a 0W-30 for your Fall oil change and a 5W-40 for the Spring oil change. The color on the oil cap and inside the valve cover is very normal. After the engine has had some time to drain, is there any build up of soft sludge or hard varnish (not just color but a build up of some thickness)? If so, Auto-Rx works to clean this. Follow the directions exactly, and use conventional oil. Email them for specifics in your case if needed.
 
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am glad to see some of the suggestions are along the lines of what I was thinking, and also I'm glad to see some other stuff come of this as well.

I have some specific questions though.

1 - I found the Rotella T-5 0W-40 locally (at Canadian Tire) for $33/4L. It definitely said on the bottle that it was a "synthetic blend"
- how do you know it's a full synthetic?
- just out of curiosity is it a group III hydrocrack?

2 - I read recently (example here http://www.shellusserver.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=239) that passenger car oils have 'friction modifiers' that diesel oils like the Rotella line doesn't have.
- will this hurt anything? fuel mileage perhaps?
- can anyone point me to some info on these 'friction modifiers'?

3 - currently I can find the following local prices
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 $7.75/L (4L $31
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-40 $8.25/L(4L $33)
- Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 $8.40/L (5L $42)
- Castrol Syntec 0W-30 $9/L
- Mobil 1 0W-40 $10/L

- given those prices (as in, if I don't find any of these on sale) I'm inclined to go for the T5 0W-40 in the winter and the T6 5W-40 in the summer. Esp if the T5 really really is a full synthetic. Anyone see any problems with this plan?


4 - eddie mentioned the Penzoil Platinum - that seems to come up as kind of an underdog in some threads. It seems some people are very impressed with the quality of this oil considering it /should/ be one of the overpriced hydrocrack oils... any opinions on this?
 
Originally Posted By: jadnhm

3 - currently I can find the following local prices
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 $7.75/L (4L $31
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-40 $8.25/L(4L $33)
- Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 $8.40/L (5L $42)
- Castrol Syntec 0W-30 $9/L
- Mobil 1 0W-40 $10/L

- given those prices (as in, if I don't find any of these on sale) I'm inclined to go for the T5 0W-40 in the winter and the T6 5W-40 in the summer. Esp if the T5 really really is a full synthetic. Anyone see any problems with this plan?


I would say it's a fine plan. If you like M1 TDT, check a local Esso Mobil supplier for Delvac 1. You may get a good price, perhaps not. For Syntec 0w-30 (GC), check Canadian Tire. They dropped the GC price to under $7 per litre.

And it's good to know I'm not nuts. Our T5 is more costly than our T6, too.
 
I found that funny too. I haven't checked at the UAP/NAPA 'Traction' heavy equipment store yet, and I haven't had a chance to check out any of the local 'brand' suppliers so I may revise my local price list in the future.

Also, it occurs to me that the T5 and T6 oils may be the best synthetic oil for the money that's commonly available (ie: easy to find). I really can't believe the price comparisons

M1 TDT 5W-40 is $0.65 per liter than T6.
Syntec is $1.25 per liter more than T6.
M1 0W-40 is $2.25 per liter more than T6!!
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Mobil 1 0w40 is a very good oil. The basestocks and additives are actually better than the other Mobil 1 viscosities. The pour point is -65!

Castrol Edge 5w40 has a pour point down to -54, as does Mobil Delvac 1 5w40. Amsoil Diesel 5w40 has a -51 pour point.

I think M1 0w40 is the best bet -- exceptional cold and warm performance with a quality basestock/add pack.

I don't know. I thought I've heard that the new M1 0w40 has switched to their Group III+ hydrocracked basestock.

Also, Terry Dyson said the M1 0w40 would only be good for 1k miles in his test of the oil on another Direct Injected Turbo car they tested it on. Not the same car as his... it's saaber1's car (a member here) but it's using the same technology. D.I. Turbo VVT, same as mine too. I wouldn't run it in a car with this tech, just b/c of Terry's tests he done on it and comments about it only staying good for such a short period of time.

I 2nd the Rotella T6 5w40 if you want a stout oil on the cheap, but if you really want to combat Intake Valve Deposits, protect the Turbo and have a super low Volatility (6%) which is so crucial for D.I. cars, I'd recommend the Red Line 5w40. That's what other's with these kind of cars have been having the most success with. You want a low volatility so the oil doesn't burn off and go through the PCV system and burn onto your Intake Valves, and Red Line is some of the best at this. Also, it's a Group V ester based oil, which is great for our cars.
 
Thanks for the reply shpankey.

Glad to get another vote for Rotella T6 and also the Red Line oil which I have heard great things about. The mileage on my car and the type of driving I do compared with the seasonal temp swings makes me shy away from the really expensive synthetics - I'm a bit reluctant to head down the really long OCI route.

For the record, the engine in my car has neither direct injection or VVT. The 1999 Volvo engines did introduce VVT on only one cam (can't remember which one).
 
Originally Posted By: jadnhm
@dparm:

That's interesting - what's better about the M1 0W-40? more PAO? more ZDDP? Is there a thread you can point me to on this?


I don't think there is much PAO in M1 0w40 google korean msds for 0w40. It has a hydrocracked slack wax group III base like Rotella. It does have slightly higher zddp at 900/1000 ppm. To the OP since you are in canada I would go with an RLI oil, one of the best and I hear it is relatively priced with other synthetics.
 
@lipadj46:
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
... I would go with an RLI oil, one of the best and I hear it is relatively priced with other synthetics.


I was trying to avoid the Group V / ester oils due to the short tripping and low temp winter conditions - I thought they sucked up too much moisture for conditions like this. Thoughts?

Also I have to say that I do like the 'add pack solubility' properties in the better hydrocracks - my engine is old and I thought I needed to make sure I am getting that add pack to the seals. Does this sound right or am I off base?
 
Last edited:
I just found the 0W-30 T5 for $24/4L at the local NAPA Traction center! WOW!

so my price chart now looks like this:
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 $7.75/L (4L $31
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-40 $8.25/L(4L $33) (maybe cheaper at Traction, didn't check)
- Shell Rotella T5 0W-30 $6.00/L (4L $24)
crazy2.gif

- Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 $8.40/L (5L $42)
- Castrol Syntec 0W-30 $9/L
- Mobil 1 0W-40 $10/L


I think the other grades of Rotella will probably be cheap there too. I'm really impressed with this oil and it's pricing. I will probably be going with that, either in 0W-30 or 0W-40 T5 for winter, and probably 5W-40 T6 for summer.

I'll report back here sometime in the future to fill everyone in on any fuel mileage changes and/or running problems/concerns while I'm trying this stuff out.

Also I recently found that my city, little as it is, has one of the Shell "Express" UOA test centers and I might be able to get my oil tested locally too. If that's the case I'll try to get some of this stuff tested and report back on that as well.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice.
 
Last edited:
I just purchased the same car this weekend with 128,500 miles. How did your plan work out so far? I'm in Michigan and so have slightly less severe cold conditions, but I'm very tempted to just run the T6 5W-40 and call it good.

It looks (smells) to me that this engine burns a little oil, so my other thoughts would be something like the full synthetic MaxLife from Valvoline. How's that supposed to be?

Thanks in advance for reviving an old thread.

Bill
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top