How do you tune up a 1988 Honda Accord, like setting timing and changing the distributor cap, etc. My friend just bought this car and we want to perform some maintenance on it. Keep in mind, I have never worked on a car that has a distributor before. Thanks for your help!
Tuning Up 1988 Honda Accord
- Thread starter parimento1
- Start date
- Status
First and foremost: you have to find out whether your friend's 88 is a carb'ed type or is it PGM-FI type. Then you go from there...
Q.
Q.
With no history?
All new fluids. New plugs. New rotor, cap, wires. Go over the brakes. Go over everything. Things are pretty basic, but there are a lot of vacuum lines running everywhere, if I remember the same thing as what you have.
All new fluids. New plugs. New rotor, cap, wires. Go over the brakes. Go over everything. Things are pretty basic, but there are a lot of vacuum lines running everywhere, if I remember the same thing as what you have.
I'd check the valves, t-belt, and do all the fluids. I wouldn't even bother with OEM Honda fluids except for the power steering fluid and maybe the coolant on that vintage. Be prepared for a CRAZY bird's nest of vacuum lines unless you're dealing with a LX-i or EX...
Last edited:
Car is fuel injected and an LX model. The car is in good condition for the age and has only 42,000 original miles. The only real problem we found is that when you put it into reverse gear (it is an automatic) the car starts to shake like it is going to stall, but does not stall. Any ideas what this could be from? It also does the same thing in drive, but not as bad. When you are moving, the car drives perfectly. Other small problems are power door locks that only unlock and a radio that only has 1 channel working. Other than that, the car is fine.
Last edited:
Sounds like bad engine mounts.
Have your friend step on the brakes and put the car into R and rev the engine and see if it shakes or moves too much - and then repeat this in D. This is a quick test for shot mounts...
And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
good point on the engine mounts. My questions is...when you replace the distributor cap, do you have to set the timing again, like on the old points distributors, where your turn the cap clockwise or counter clockwise to advance or retard the timing?
No, you don't have to reset the timing again after a dist cap change. Make sure that you buy the correct dist cap and rotor. They either came with a Hitachi or a Tec cap and rotor. The Hitachi is more round at the base and the Tec is more square at it's base. There are 2 distributor hold down screws, one on top and the other is underneath the distritutor which is hard to see and reach. There is also a rubber plug(maybe missing) in the lower part of the engine to the left of the exhaust manifold where you can see the timing marks should you need to adjust. The timing is 15* +/- 2*...Most of the tuneup parts are easy to do on these cars. The plugs go in at a slight angle like this: // \\ So be careful when installing them as not to cross thread them. Don't skimp on the quality of the parts. NGK plugs with good namd brand cap/rotor and wires.
If there's an idle speed control system it might be gummed up. Look for a port near the throttle valve that would go around it. Lightly touching the gas... two footing it... while putting it in R or D, would prove things were gummed up by improving the stall situation.
Originally Posted By: nthach
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Originally Posted By: nthach
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
I think the A20s are carb'd motors, I was doing a carb R&R on a 87 Prelude DX. Talk about PITA...
The i in LX-i during that era means like BMW and the Euros, injected.
Originally Posted By: nthach
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
I think the A20s are carb'd motors, I was doing a carb R&R on a 87 Prelude DX. Talk about PITA...
The i in LX-i during that era means like BMW and the Euros, injected.
Last edited:
Rough running in gear cold also be a vacuum or manifold leak.
Check each lines along it's full length, and it's end connections. Double check the PCV system. Make sure there are no manifold leaks. Vacuum goes to the brakes and possibly the interior to control heat vents.
Run a bottle of good injector cleaner throug the gas tank. Use Gumout Regain or Chevron Techron [buy their strong version].
Tune up stuff? Get a manual for that car at an auto parts store for $15 and do ti that way. Pictures and explanations are going to be very helpful. But you can do it, and do it well!
Check each lines along it's full length, and it's end connections. Double check the PCV system. Make sure there are no manifold leaks. Vacuum goes to the brakes and possibly the interior to control heat vents.
Run a bottle of good injector cleaner throug the gas tank. Use Gumout Regain or Chevron Techron [buy their strong version].
Tune up stuff? Get a manual for that car at an auto parts store for $15 and do ti that way. Pictures and explanations are going to be very helpful. But you can do it, and do it well!
sounds like a plan thanks for your help. I suspected the problem is coming from vacuum lines.
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Originally Posted By: nthach
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
I think the A20s are carb'd motors, I was doing a carb R&R on a 87 Prelude DX. Talk about PITA...
The i in LX-i during that era means like BMW and the Euros, injected.
The A20A1 and A20A2 were carbed, the A20A3 and A20A4 were injected, at least according to Wiki.
Again, back to this thread...I would say that in comparing my '89 Accord to my current '99 Civic, the Accord was better built. Everything in it felt sturdy, like it was meant to be there. By comparison certain parts in my Civic feel like they might be held in with one bolt or screw and they decided that was enough.
I wish Honda still made 'em like that '89. All that to say you've got a great car there. If you can keep the road salt off it you should be able to put 200K on it no problem.
Clark
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Originally Posted By: nthach
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
I think the A20s are carb'd motors, I was doing a carb R&R on a 87 Prelude DX. Talk about PITA...
The i in LX-i during that era means like BMW and the Euros, injected.
The A20A1 and A20A2 were carbed, the A20A3 and A20A4 were injected, at least according to Wiki.
Again, back to this thread...I would say that in comparing my '89 Accord to my current '99 Civic, the Accord was better built. Everything in it felt sturdy, like it was meant to be there. By comparison certain parts in my Civic feel like they might be held in with one bolt or screw and they decided that was enough.
I wish Honda still made 'em like that '89. All that to say you've got a great car there. If you can keep the road salt off it you should be able to put 200K on it no problem.
Clark
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Originally Posted By: nthach
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
I think the A20s are carb'd motors, I was doing a carb R&R on a 87 Prelude DX. Talk about PITA...
The i in LX-i during that era means like BMW and the Euros, injected.
The A20A1 and A20A2 were carbed, the A20A3 and A20A4 were injected, at least according to Wiki.
Again, back to this thread...I would say that in comparing my '89 Accord to my current '99 Civic, the Accord was better built. Everything in it felt sturdy, like it was meant to be there. By comparison certain parts in my Civic feel like they might be held in with one bolt or screw and they decided that was enough.
I wish Honda still made 'em like that '89. All that to say you've got a great car there. If you can keep the road salt off it you should be able to put 200K on it no problem.
Clark
Yeah, I like the way most Japanese car bodies were built in the 1980s.
Every vehicle information plaque looked like a badge of honor back then. Now everything has ordinary labels.
However, I would never want to deal with 1980s CV joints.
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: ClarkB
Originally Posted By: nthach
...And yes, you have an LX-i, basically the Accord LX with the Prelude B-series motor...
My '89 had the A20A3 engine, I'm sure that most LX-i's had it. I know there was a "B" series engine, but not the same as the more famous B16 and B18, it was a B20 that didn't share much with the smaller displacement B's or the latter B20 in the CRV.
Back on topic, I would recommend regular auto transmission fluid changes. It has a screen, not a filter in the transmission so no need to think about changing that. Mine had 204K miles and the transmission was going south in a hurry. It would slip really bad on the 3-4 shift and it got worse in cold weather. I bought it used with 168K miles and I'm guessing the transmission had little attention before that.
Clark
Clark
I think the A20s are carb'd motors, I was doing a carb R&R on a 87 Prelude DX. Talk about PITA...
The i in LX-i during that era means like BMW and the Euros, injected.
The A20A1 and A20A2 were carbed, the A20A3 and A20A4 were injected, at least according to Wiki.
Again, back to this thread...I would say that in comparing my '89 Accord to my current '99 Civic, the Accord was better built. Everything in it felt sturdy, like it was meant to be there. By comparison certain parts in my Civic feel like they might be held in with one bolt or screw and they decided that was enough.
I wish Honda still made 'em like that '89. All that to say you've got a great car there. If you can keep the road salt off it you should be able to put 200K on it no problem.
Clark
Yeah, I like the way most Japanese car bodies were built in the 1980s.
Every vehicle information plaque looked like a badge of honor back then. Now everything has ordinary labels.
However, I would never want to deal with 1980s CV joints.
So we changed the plugs, wires, and oil. Coolant and transmission fluid looked good. By the way the amount of vacuum lines in this car is crazy. There is about a 5 inch diameter coil of vacuum lines close to the passenger side firewall. What could you possibly need that many vacuum lines for.
Well, yes, those Accords were a vacuum disaster but to Honda's credit they worked very well for a long time. It was their genious way of making all of the emissions work when the rest of the auto industry were still scratching their heads
I guess today they use solenoids instead of vacum lines.
- Status
