Probably keep your engine on while you drain the oil will help pumping more oil out, cold or hot
(don't try at home)
Works better than bumping the engine
(don't try at home)Works better than bumping the engine
True Engine Oil Capacity
- Thread starter free2d
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For a few seconds, probably nothing will happen, as long as it was running before the oil drop.Probably keep your engine on while you drain the oil will help pumping more oil out, cold or hot
Works better than bumping the engine
An interesting factoid that I have opined on elsewhere has to do with what might be a trend with GDI engines. My Hyundai has an oil pan with a four metric litre max oil capacity yet they only recommend a 3.8 quart (approx 3.5 litre) max fill upon changing the oil and filter. Subaru is recommending something similar with its newer GDI engines, their FB25B engine has a 5 quart sump but the recommended fill is only 4.4 quarts.
I surmise that this excess capacity may be to accommodate roughly about a half quart of fuel dilution which may occur.
I surmise that this excess capacity may be to accommodate roughly about a half quart of fuel dilution which may occur.
Toyota sez 4.2/4.7 or about 89% of the true "dry fill" oil capacity of my engine drains if the filter is also changed. That's probably typical.
All manufacturers' recommendations for change intervals allow for the inevitable contamination of fresh oil with old oil, so we don't need to worry about it.
All manufacturers' recommendations for change intervals allow for the inevitable contamination of fresh oil with old oil, so we don't need to worry about it.
I always go by the dipstick, and only use the oil capacity number in the manual to "get close", then adjust as required to get to the "full" mark on the dipstick. Note total amount installed for the next oil change.
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I think near the end it was making "oil pressure" by just pumping air through the oiling system. There was nothing left in the sump to pump.
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No kidding.
Ha ha. the last time I changed my oil I started topping it off before closing the fumoto drain valve. Scrambled down and, it was just starting to flow out. Doesn't everyone purge the remaining oil in their pan with a few ounces of fresh stuff? lol
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
Some manuals state this. Mine does not but I assume that although the sump takes about 5.5qts. at a change, the real capacity is closer to 6qts, 5.75 qts. at least and I think I end up putting in the latter to get to the top of the hashmark...
Putting the car up on ramps might or might not help get a bit more oil out assuming the OEM thinks the car will be level during an oil change on a service center lift or over a basement floor bay...
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Let's recap.
For the last 100yrs the std procedure has been; engine off, drain, new filter, fill, drive.
I must say, seems like nothing has changed in the last 100yrs.
If you really wanted to push extra oil out, then some type of filter adapter with schrader valve that allows you to blow air through the filter to push out any remaining oil. But this too would be silly, because then you really have no oil where it needs to be for starting and shortly thereafter. The engine retains plenty of oil where it needs to for this very reason.
For the last 100yrs the std procedure has been; engine off, drain, new filter, fill, drive.
I must say, seems like nothing has changed in the last 100yrs.
If you really wanted to push extra oil out, then some type of filter adapter with schrader valve that allows you to blow air through the filter to push out any remaining oil. But this too would be silly, because then you really have no oil where it needs to be for starting and shortly thereafter. The engine retains plenty of oil where it needs to for this very reason.
All engines trap a small amount of used oil from being drained, at the very least least a residual layer clinging to internal engine parts. But usually the oil pump has a few ounces, the cylinder head has some recesses that hold oil (sometimes by design), and other various nooks/crannies/passages inside the engine will trap oil.
Owner's manuals often give 2 or more different oil capacities:
1 - periodic oil change
2 - oil change with filter
3 - total capacity (new/rebuilt engine)
From what I gather, the consensus among manufacturers is this: If 85-90% of the capacity is fresh oil, you have effectively changed the oil.
My motorcycle manuals say to kick the starter lever a couple times to get the oil out of the pump, but that usually just ends up spraying oil mist and drops out of the drain hole (single cylinder) which makes a mess, so I don't bother.
Owner's manuals often give 2 or more different oil capacities:
1 - periodic oil change
2 - oil change with filter
3 - total capacity (new/rebuilt engine)
From what I gather, the consensus among manufacturers is this: If 85-90% of the capacity is fresh oil, you have effectively changed the oil.
My motorcycle manuals say to kick the starter lever a couple times to get the oil out of the pump, but that usually just ends up spraying oil mist and drops out of the drain hole (single cylinder) which makes a mess, so I don't bother.
You skipped the tumbling centrifuge? Oh yeah, you need two engines for that.