Trop-artic vs. Mobil-1 10w30?

[FastSUV]

Okay so it is settled...in my '01 Grand Cherokee 4.0L w/ 72k, I will be sticking to Phillips Trop-artic 10w30 syn-blend every 4k...(maybe even 5 if UOA shows it can).

But on my other vehicle, I am currently using Mobil-1 HM formula 10w30 and it has had Mobil-1 classic formula most of its life. It would be SOOOO convenient if I could just run the SAME oil in both my vehicles. But this is a '98 GC 5.9L and is my toy and not a daily driver anymore. It would be nice to be able to use Trop-artic in it instead if I could find some things out for certain.

As a result, I figured I'd better stick to the Mobil-1 HM or Mobil-1 Classic because they are both "full-synthetic" oils and I figured they'd stand up better to condensation of sitting in a cold garage for extended periods without being ran to operating temp.

However, I have now read a few posts that claim Trop-artic is actually a Group-III base oil which is the same as Mobil-1. If that is in fact the case, then there should be no hard in switching from one Group-III oil to the other as far as condensation goes???

I need to know for sure if Mobil-1 classic or HM forulas are in fact a Group-III base stock currently. And also if the Trop-artic synthetic blend is also a Group-III oil?

EDIT: in the '98 non-daily driver, I plan to chan ge it every 3k or once a year (which ever comes first).

Thanks!

 

[SuperDave456]

With 3k once a year you would be good with any dino oil out there.

Synthetic could possibly go 2 years, but why?

If you want to drop the extra money on synthetic that is alright, but 3k miles on a synthetic a year, even with storage and condensation, will be kind of a waste.

 

[FastSUV]

yeah, but again, what about the tendancy of dino to absorb moisture??

I am willing to continue using Mobil-1 if I knew for my situation it was the better choice...but IF TROP-ARTIC is in fact a Group-III then what the heck is the difference?

 

[Ken2]

There are seven oils with "Trop-Artic" in their names, and there are signficant differences. Trop-Artic syn-blend is good but nothing special as far as I can tell. ConocoPhillips is an importer of a lower cost/quality Group III base oil from Korea. Not all base oils of any given group are equal. To sell at the price point they chose, ConocoPhillips seems to have blended a lower cost/quality conventional base oil with a lower quality Group III to yield oils that meet today's spec but offer the marketing advantage of being synthetic blend. ConocoPhillips also offers clearly labeled full synthetic oils.

http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/TechData/Automotive+Engine+Oils.htm

 

[FastSUV]

Again I appreciate the response & info...A ,lot of people swear by this Trop-artic 10w30 syn-blend...I know it is Korean base, but still seesm to have good numbers for the price.

Anymore thoughts??? how about moisture absorbstion dino or blend vs full syn???

 

[addyguy]

I don't know the science behind this, but from what I DO understand, Esters 'attract' moisture...it HAS been said on this board, if you are doing short trips in a cold/damp climate, you DON'T want to use Redline oil, as it is 60-70% Ester base stock.

'Most' syn oils use 'some' amount of ester in them to moderate seal swell, so for short-trip/infrequesnt use, I'd say that dino, or a syn blend (like TA) would be better...I'd run both your vehicles on TA 10W-30, changed every 3-4k miles, and save yourself somme $$$ in the process....

 

[FastSUV]

again thanks for the info!!! Good stuff...

I would say that I am not sure that Mobil-1 has any ester bases in it though? And the other thing is that in the 5.9L, I'd prefer to run a HM oil so rather than using the Trop-artic, I would consider running Castrol HM dino instead?

I just wish there was a readily availible syn-blend HM oil...I have heard that Castrol HM & Maxlife are both actually syn-blends?

Anyone know about that?

 

[sciphi]

IIRC Maxlife says "syn blend" right on the 5 quart jug.

 

[addyguy]

M1 will have 'some' esters in it; no idea how much....

Most HM oils are syn blends, and you will probably hear that they too have esters in the them to condition seals. However, they also have extra ingredients in them to specifically prevent corrosion, so they are great for veghicles that see infrequent use...

GTX HM 10W-30 is a very strong oil - they advertise it had the lowest 'burn off' of any 'conventional' 10w-30 on the market, and it is a nice, thick 12.1 cst. Maxlife is a fave on here, partially b/c it has lots of moly for anti-wear. You can't go wrng with either!

 

[FastSUV]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
M1 will have 'some' esters in it; no idea how much....

Most HM oils are syn blends, and you will probably hear that they too have esters in the them to condition seals. However, they also have extra ingredients in them to specifically prevent corrosion, so they are great for veghicles that see infrequent use...

GTX HM 10W-30 is a very strong oil - they advertise it had the lowest 'burn off' of any 'conventional' 10w-30 on the market, and it is a nice, thick 12.1 cst. Maxlife is a fave on here, partially b/c it has lots of moly for anti-wear. You can't go wrng with either!


Yeah but the question remains...if comparing Mobil-1 HM formula to a dino HM oil...which is for sure the better of the two against moisture abosorbtion in a vehicle that sits in a cold garage and makes short infrequent trips?

IS FULL SYN BETTER THAN DINO for a vehicle in "storage"?

 

[addyguy]

I don't know, but if I 'had' to guess, I'd go with a dino oil being better. There is a general suspicion that syn oils are often 'slipperyer' than dino oils, and run-off engine part quicker, and more thoroughly. Dino is somewhat 'tackier' and 'sticks' to engine parts better...not a 'scientific' fact, but I think there is something to it, especially with a HDEO, or when using a 'tackifier', like Lucas or STP...

 

[FastSUV]

good point...I have also heard Castrol HM forula is very thick comapred to other 10w30's...

So that leaves me again with a question...which is better, Castrol HM or Maxlife?

LOL

So many questions, and the oil companies do not provide the answers very easily.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Okay so it is settled...in my '01 Grand Cherokee 4.0L w/ 72k, I will be sticking to Phillips Trop-artic 10w30 syn-blend every 4k...(maybe even 5 if UOA shows it can).

But on my other vehicle, I am currently using Mobil-1 HM formula 10w30 and it has had Mobil-1 classic formula most of its life. It would be SOOOO convenient if I could just run the SAME oil in both my vehicles. But this is a '98 GC 5.9L and is my toy and not a daily driver anymore. It would be nice to be able to use Trop-artic in it instead if I could find some things out for certain.

As a result, I figured I'd better stick to the Mobil-1 HM or Mobil-1 Classic because they are both "full-synthetic" oils and I figured they'd stand up better to condensation of sitting in a cold garage for extended periods without being ran to operating temp.

However, I have now read a few posts that claim Trop-artic is actually a Group-III base oil which is the same as Mobil-1. If that is in fact the case, then there should be no hard in switching from one Group-III oil to the other as far as condensation goes???

I need to know for sure if Mobil-1 classic or HM forulas are in fact a Group-III base stock currently. And also if the Trop-artic synthetic blend is also a Group-III oil?

EDIT: in the '98 non-daily driver, I plan to chan ge it every 3k or once a year (which ever comes first).




I called Mobil recently and their tech told me all M1 tagged oils are GRP4 oils. This has been a rumor that spread like wildfire. Continue to use your M1 with confidence.

Thanks!