Transmission service 2002 Maxima
- Thread starter raaizin
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I wouldn't worry about changing the filter. I would recommend doing a couple drain and refills. I believe the Maxima, like most newer Nissan's have a drain bolt for the transmission pan. I am not sure if the 02 Maxima uses Matic-D or Matic-K fluid though.
First talk to the parts guy at your dealer and see if your trans even has a filter plus find out the correct fluid for your application. I recently discovered my wifes Lexus has no filter, neither does my daughters Honda CRV. So why drop the pan? I am using a fluid extractor to suck the oil out of the dipstick tube and re-fill with fresh oil. If you have a drain bolt then drain it. I now change 2-3 quarts of transmission fluid every other oil change which is 10k miles. I will drop the pan & change the filter on my Yukon at 50k but will still have fresh fluid being added in to all the vehicles. It'simple to do.
It has a strainer like most Nissan Jatco's. The issue that some have is that it is held with several bolts and usually 1 nut. The bolts remove easily. The nut drives you nuts since there is no way to hold that bolt connected to the nut. I usually just hold the threads of the bolt to remove and reinstall that nut. The low-skilled backyard mechanic will not be able to deal with that nut and has caused all that impossible to remove filter hearsay. Some will also be confused because of the length of the bolts are different.
The pan should also have a magnet which should be cleaned.
If the trans is functioning normally, you don't ever need to change the strainer. But, you should consider dropping the pan to clean or replace that magnet every 100k.
If its the 4 speed, it takes matic-d or equivalent. You can use dexron III-H, MerconV or any multivehicle ATF.
Since you have a drainplug, just perform a drain/refill a couple time a year. There is no need to flush ever.
Since the strainer is a joke, an aftermarket filter is recommended. Either put together your own mount/filter, or buy one of the Racor, Magnefine, B&M, Transdapt, Permacool, ATF.... filter kits.
The pan should also have a magnet which should be cleaned.
If the trans is functioning normally, you don't ever need to change the strainer. But, you should consider dropping the pan to clean or replace that magnet every 100k.
If its the 4 speed, it takes matic-d or equivalent. You can use dexron III-H, MerconV or any multivehicle ATF.
Since you have a drainplug, just perform a drain/refill a couple time a year. There is no need to flush ever.
Since the strainer is a joke, an aftermarket filter is recommended. Either put together your own mount/filter, or buy one of the Racor, Magnefine, B&M, Transdapt, Permacool, ATF.... filter kits.
KBFXDLI,
You might double check on the RX330 not having a filter. I just dropped the pan on my wife's ES330 and replaced the filter, gasket and refilled with T-IV. From what I can tell you have a filter too.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...amp;catalogid=1
You might double check on the RX330 not having a filter. I just dropped the pan on my wife's ES330 and replaced the filter, gasket and refilled with T-IV. From what I can tell you have a filter too.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/i...amp;catalogid=1
yes, like unDummy said.
I too couldn't get that strainer out. don't bother with it.
but I would be inclined to do a full flush if i were you. it's quick, easy, and cost-effective. drain/fills take much more fluid to get an equivalent concentration of new fluid - and if you're going to use expensive ATF (like amsoil) you don't want to mix the new w/ the old if you can avoid it.
FYI here's my ATF UOAs (both 9k after drain/fill and 9k after full flush)....
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=1#Post699621
I too couldn't get that strainer out. don't bother with it.
but I would be inclined to do a full flush if i were you. it's quick, easy, and cost-effective. drain/fills take much more fluid to get an equivalent concentration of new fluid - and if you're going to use expensive ATF (like amsoil) you don't want to mix the new w/ the old if you can avoid it.
FYI here's my ATF UOAs (both 9k after drain/fill and 9k after full flush)....
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=1#Post699621
Well: I spoke to 2 dealers and that part number is the metal screen that they never replace because it is cleanable. That said, they both said they never take the pan off unless there is a problem just drain & refill or flush of the fluid is really dirty. They both said the bottom of the pan has a big magnet that traps some sediment but never enough to justify removing it for cleaning until over 200k. They both also said continuous fluid swapping or flushing will in most cases double the life of the transmission as most of the debris is suspensed in the fluid. So my plan of 2-3 qts of new fluid every other oil change will continue.
Thankyou unDummy! A couple weeks ago I dropped the transmission pan in my 2002 Infiniti I35(same trans as Maxima), and found the stud turning when I backed the nut off the strainer. Thought about holding the stud with vise grips, but decided to let it go untill next time and see if this has happened to someone else. After placing several posts on Infiniti & Maxima forums and getting 0 replies-Bingo, I found one! Is the stud a loose press, or is there a nut on the other end? Can't imagine why Nissan engineers thought they needed 13 fasteners to secure the screen. I also found 2 magnets in my pan; both located in small indentations in the pan bottom.
^it's a bolt. the bolt head is up there on the top side of the valve body. ridiculous design.
Yep, freewheeling bolt. Don't know why some OEM engineer did that. Also know that sometimes its installed backwards. Nothing like taking all the bolts out and have a nut fall out of the VB.
You'll need rubber or plastic tipped pliers to hold the threads while loosening the nut. The thread on the bolt/nut are so clean and smooth that once you loosen it, you should be able to finger spin it off/on. If you use metal vise grips or metal pliers, you will damage the bolt threads making it impossible to remove the nut.
You'll need rubber or plastic tipped pliers to hold the threads while loosening the nut. The thread on the bolt/nut are so clean and smooth that once you loosen it, you should be able to finger spin it off/on. If you use metal vise grips or metal pliers, you will damage the bolt threads making it impossible to remove the nut.
My suggestion is not to monkey with that bolt...
When I dropped the pan on my maxima, the screen was clean (meaning it was not meant to filtering anything, nothing), there was no necessity to replace something that was clean.
When I dropped the pan on my maxima, the screen was clean (meaning it was not meant to filtering anything, nothing), there was no necessity to replace something that was clean.
Thanks, I'll probably not drop the pan again for a couple years. I've only got 32K on the car, so will just drain and fill the transmission couple times a year.
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