trans fluid and filter change, with pics

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I finished a fluid and filter change today on my 1995 Chevrolet Lumina (4T60-E transmission). All went surprisingly well, considering this is the first transmission service this car has seen, as far as I know (82,000 miles on the car). The magnet, as you can see in the "before" picture, was coated with about a 1/4 inch of metallic sludge (I ran my finger through it). The pan had a few bits of black stuff and a fine layer of the same metallic sludge all over it as well.

(A warning to 56k users, the pictures are quite large, and I have no html skills, so pardon the direct links)

Before...
http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/4159/before6oa.jpg

And after...
http://img463.imageshack.us/img463/4220/after1gl.jpg

From this experience, two tips I can pass on for those who have not done this before: One, this job is messy, and there's really no way around it. Be sure to have a large catch basin and lots of tarps or something. Two, when you refill the transmission with fluid, stop a good quart shy of the listed capacity and then top it off later when it is on the ground. (The refill amount in my manual for a pan drop and filter change is 7 quarts, but 6 1/3 qts brought it to the "full" line on the dipstick. As I'm told, transmissions do not like being overfilled.)
 
Keep in mind that if you wish to reduce the mess, drain the pan via the cooling lines before pulling the pan down. It should reduce its volume to next to nothing.

Good job on the clean up
smile.gif
 
Doh! That sounds too easy. I was just following a Haynes manual
smile.gif


Have there been any issues with using this method though? My only concern would be air getting sucked into [the hydraulically-operated transmission] somewhere it shouldn't be. I only question because I have never seen this method "formally" endorsed in a service manual, only "T-tech" style fluid exchanges and pan drops.

...You were talking about unhooking the transmission cooler lines by the radiator and running the car until the fluid was gone right?
 
The method is formally endorsed in several Ford FSMs that I've seen.
Its a common old school method if you don't want to wear a gallon of ATF during pan removal.

Everytime you shut the vehicle off, you get air. Don't worry about it. BUT, make sure you don't run the vehicle too long once you start pumping bubbles. I like using clear hose from the hardware store. It allows me to watch the fluid flow and cut the engine once it starts blowing bubbles.
 
The draining through the cooler lines sounds like a walk in the park. I had heard of people doing it (on this forum), but am a little gun shy about following anonymously provided "tricks of the trade"... sometimes they don't turn out so well. In general, if it comes down to me rolling the dice on a shortcut or getting dirty, I'd rather just take an extra shower that day.

Anywho, I just might try this method the next time **** freezes over/I change my fluid and filter again given what a PITA this last event was. Thanks for the feedback.

EDIT: This forum has a word filter?
 
Trust me, pal. I just did it Sunday to my Caravan. If it was any easier it would be relaxation. I have the advantage of having a Magnefine on there ...so the hose removal is a little easier than one that has been vulcanized to the hose barb ..and many contemporary factory fittings have "fish hook" designs to their hose barbs ..making them an extreme challenge beyond just being stubborn.

I just unscrewed one clamp ..let the Magnefine lay limp into a pan under it ..started engine .....flow stopped ...turned off engine ..poured in two quarts ...etc..etc. until it came out healthy looking ..tightened clamp ..topped it up and only needed one paper towel for my hands for clean up.

It's far more convenient than changing oil. Now that you have a new sump filter, I would recommend getting some auxillary filtration and working from there from now on ..or at least for some reasonable mile/time interval.
 
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