Toyota plastic oil filter housing

[Shel_B]

Check out Scotty KILMER On you tube, HE Will show you a replacement to convert the Toyota cartage filter to a spin on one

This is what Scotty suggests:

https://baxterperformanceusa.com/

I've looked into it for my Camry. It's a spendy item, about $200.00 if I recall correctly. It might be a worthwhile purchase for some folks.

One issue to be considered is that most any filter you use would hang lower than the original (if your car has a vertical canister, as on the Camry) and could be damaged in certain situations. Another consideration is the replacement filter itself. Getting one that physically fits shouldn't be a problem, but getting one that has the correct bypass relief valve pressure will take a little research. There are various relief valve pressures available, and I don't know what's appropriate for the different Toyota engines, nor do I know how different relief valve pressures will affect performance and engine safety. Maybe someone reading this has the information and expertise.

So, in conclusion, it could be a worthwhile option, just do your homework.

 

[Ronin73]

Replacing with the metal housing was the first mod I did on my Tundra.

 

[skrypj]

My GX460 has one of these and I was able to get it off with a strap wrench.

 

[02SE]

I've seen examples posted online of people ham-fisting and damaging the Al filter caps too. I've also seen examples posted from people that used the correct tool for the job, such as the MotivX, but they placed it on the cap wrong, and broke tabs off the cap.

Right tool, right procedure, and right specs for the job, and the 'plastic' cap is fine.

 

[john_pifer]

This is what Scotty suggests:

https://baxterperformanceusa.com/

I've looked into it for my Camry. It's a spendy item, about $200.00 if I recall correctly. It might be a worthwhile purchase for some folks.

One issue to be considered is that most any filter you use would hang lower than the original (if your car has a vertical canister, as on the Camry) and could be damaged in certain situations. Another consideration is the replacement filter itself. Getting one that physically fits shouldn't be a problem, but getting one that has the correct bypass relief valve pressure will take a little research. There are various relief valve pressures available, and I don't know what's appropriate for the different Toyota engines, nor do I know how different relief valve pressures will affect performance and engine safety. Maybe someone reading this has the information and expertise.

So, in conclusion, it could be a worthwhile option, just do your homework.

My Tacoma has the remote filter boss up top with a spin-on. Same engine as my wife’s new 2021 4Runner, which has the cartridge.

Yeah, that spin-on, mounted on top, is more convenient, but the cartridge filter is less wasteful. It’s not as if that spin-on oil filter is getting recycled by most people.

I‘m no tree hugging greenie, but I’m all for reducing waste when I can, so, I guess I don’t mind it.

Im grateful for everyone’s providing a lot of information so that I know what I’m doing on the oil change on the 4Runner when I do it for the first time.

 

[PWMDMD]

Happened on my wife's Lexus in the exact same place using the exact same tools. The difference was I did not see the crack until AFTER I filled the engine with oil, turned it on, and my 15 year asks if oil is supposed to be coming out of the bottom of the vehicle.

Previous oil change was by the dealer and this was WAY over-torqued.

 

[RichR]

I have had bad experiences with these Toyota canister filters.
Both times at the hands of Toyota dealers.
Had the broken ears on a Corolla after the daughter moved and had dealer oil changes for three years. No problems before.
Only 25k of free oil changes on the sons RAV4 and I couldn't remove the filter housing.
Took it back and was told it was my problem the engine builds pressure.
Twisted the Motivx wrench made of aluminum so I found a steel one made by CTA tools.
Very heavy duty solid steel.
Also replaced the Rav4 plastic with a metal filter cap.
No problems since.

 

[02SE]

I have had bad experiences with these Toyota canister filters.
Both times at the hands of Toyota dealers.
Had the broken ears on a Corolla after the daughter moved and had dealer oil changes for three years. No problems before.
Only 25k of free oil changes on the sons RAV4 and I couldn't remove the filter housing.
Took it back and was told it was my problem the engine builds pressure.
Twisted the Motivx wrench made of aluminum so I found a steel one made by CTA tools.
Very heavy duty solid steel.
Also replaced the Rav4 plastic with a metal filter cap.
No problems since.

That sounds like a bad experience with Toyota dealer lube techs.

Really the canister filters are fine. It's ham-fisted hacks that cause problems.

 

[khittner1]

I’ve had the plastic canister on my wife’s ‘11 Highlander since it was new. When the canister stops tightening easily, and it’s a hard stop, stop tightening. No leaks or replacements in 175K miles/34 oil & filter changes. Metal canisters, or Scotty’s preferred spin-on filter adapter, are both completely unnecessary.

 

[Shel_B]

Metal canisters, or Scotty’s preferred spin-on filter adapter, are both completely unnecessary.

I'm inclined to agree with you, especially WRT the Baxter Performance adapter that Scotty touts. However, the aluminum housing might be worthwhile for those who generally farm out their oil changes and can't personally control the removal and installation of the canister. It's my understanding that the aluminum canister is a standard feature on some Toyota and Lexus models, and if that is correct, it might be nice to know why Toyota uses them on some models and not others.

I trust the shop that does my changes 100%, but I've had a long-term relationship with them and I know the quality of their work. With so many shops the oil-change person and the quality of the work s/he does is an unknown, and it might be a good idea to have the extra protection that the aluminum canister provides.

 

[ZebRuaj]

I've broken 3 over my years, all put on prior by someone else. Over torqued.

Both my personal Toyota's have been converted over to the aluminum housing years ago.

 

[wdn]

Why would someone pay $200 for a conversion kit when a $12.99 Toyota-specific oil filter wrench fits perfectly, and easily remove and installs those filter? It has teeth that fit those grooves and takes it off without a hitch. Besides “it’s your money” of course.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Why not? use same filter on multiple vehicles? use remote, dual, or bypass filtration? add an oil cooler? plumb PSI/temp sensors to remote filter mounts?

The Baxter adapters were available long before Snotty Dilmer mentioned them. He probably read it over on the toyotanation website. Be smarter by not watching idiots on youtube.

 

[Dieselsmoke]

I see no reason why the right cap wrench and torque to 25nm (the other side of your torque wrench) I did 21 oil changes every 10k before passing my Prius on still had the factory plastic cap never had a problem my Tacoma I do the same .Use a sandwich plastic bag to remove the filter from housing and throw it way. Just my two cents

 

[CharlieJ]

My Mazda3 2.3l engine has a plastic oil filter cap, along with all the other Fords that used this engine. I've done all my own oil changes since new using the proper filter cap socket and torque wrench at 22ft/lbs only! Never had a problem going on 14 years.
I didn't like it at first, but now I like being able to inspect the filter element before and after use.

 

[JustinH]

I never had a problem with one of these. Unless I took the car in for service it wasn't bad to get off.

Use the proper socket, mine had an adapter for a half inch breaker bar, which made it simple to get it off.

I didn't mess with torque specs to get it back on, but lubing the O ring with oil and just getting it snug caused no issues.

 

[97f150]

A cheap $10 Toyota specific tool does the trick fine for me. Looks just like the fancy Motivx tool but cheaper. Both my Tundra and the ladys Camry use the composite filter house and the tool works on both. Never a problem, just spin it on until it stops turning and leave it alone until the next oil change.

 

[PWMDMD]

So we've established if you are going to do all of your own oil filter changes for the rest of your ownership and you have a clue you can keep the plastic cover BUT if there's even a small chance you may not be the person who changes it 100% of the time and it's possible you may go somewhere else including the dealership, get the metal cover because current owners seem to be the ONLY people in the world who do not over-torque the cover.

I've never had any issues with my Toyota/Lexus products until I gave in and allowed the stupid 10K mile free oil change at the dealership.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

I put some oil, or last time grease on the threads and O-ring. This certainly makes it way easier to remove. Also don't over tighten it!

Just my $0.02

 

[john_pifer]

After changing the oil on the wife's 4Runner for the first time, I don't have any plans to get one of the aluminum housings.

The composite housing is just fine.

But, then, I'll be doing all the oil changes myself, so, no worries about an 18-year-old, minimum wage gorilla over-tightening it.