Toyota plastic oil filter housing

Astro14

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Messages
13,388
Location
Virginia Beach
I might buy one of the al ones and keep as a spare just in case I accidentally screw up the plastic one.

When you buy an oil filter, does it come with an o-ring for the housing?
Yes. It includes the filter, big o ring for the housing, little o ring for the drain/cap and plastic nozzle to drain the filter housing. I get Toyota ones, from the dealer, for about $5.
 
Messages
5,790
Location
NJ
The 20,000 mile oil filter cartridges have an appeal for me. I think it was Kira above that explained it correctly. At least for my car. There is no torque setting. You rotate it on and it never tightens. It just stops when it's seated. I had to buy a big 1/2 inch ratchet to get mine off and on easily. Well, easier.
 
Messages
2,838
Location
Americus, GA
If you do your own oil changes, with the proper tool, you should not have a problem. All of us aren’t that lucky, are not mechanically inclined or have the time. Both of my vehicles have plastic housings. Before I did my first oil changes, I put corresponding marks on the engine and housing. I just line the marks up and done. Lube all of the o-rings beforehand.
 
Messages
494
Location
T-County, Ohio
This is what we use at the lube shop where I work. Never had an issue with any of the caps, aluminum or composite.

L8R,
Matt
 

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Messages
7,496
Location
Roanoke Virginia
Definitely time to replace it I recommend metal though I really prefer spin on which we will probably be converting ours too soon. Keep the threads dry when installing unless you reduce torque by 20% as a general rule of thumb. I don’t feel oil or anti seize is needed for them. Putting a little oil on the o-ring would be fine as it doesn’t affect the threads. The problem with these is people over tighten them causing them to crack when being removed. I heard that is the reason that most of the tools to install and remove it are 3/8 drive so you can’t monkey it on there with a 1/2 inch drive for those who choose not to use a torque wrench. The torque spec for these is 18ft pounds or 25NM. What Toyota do you own? Didn’t see it listed in your signature.
 
Messages
1,502
Location
Indiana
This is what we use at the lube shop where I work. Never had an issue with any of the caps, aluminum or composite.

L8R,
Matt
Impressive strength on that tool. Looks like something to wrench on earthmovers. This filter design stuff is interesting I have an old 3.6 GM with a cartridge and aluminum screw-on cover, a 4cyl Ecotec with a cartridge and plastic screw-on cover, and both current versions of these went back to spin-ons.
 
Messages
186
Location
NV
Still got the OEM in mine. It’s a quality thermoset GRP/FRP material.
I’m sure we’ve all seen stripped oil plugs, bad mechanics do bad things.
It’s funny to see people freak out about plastic in their engines.
 
Messages
7,581
Location
North America
Right tool, right torque, no problem...
You bet.

Got my 4R in 2017. Did the reasearch and got the proper tool from NAPA before my first change.

It was good money spent. No issues with mine, it is VERY obvious when it is seated properly and bottoms out, as Leo99 mentioned.

Couple things I've read is that when switching to the aluminum, some antiseize usually needs to be applied when installing. Also, that Toyota uses the composite housing when skidplate protected (yes, antisieze on the skidplate bolts), and aluminum when exposed to possible road debris.
 
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