Toyota OEM Oil Filter Efficiency
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Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
In other words, the cumulative wear over a 5K OCI with a 50% @ 20u filter will probably be about the same as the cumulative wear over a 10K OCI with a 99% @ 20u filter.
I kind of get the gist of that having read through many posts here.
In other words, the cumulative wear over a 5K OCI with a 50% @ 20u filter will probably be about the same as the cumulative wear over a 10K OCI with a 99% @ 20u filter.
I kind of get the gist of that having read through many posts here.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: CR94
I kept a vehicle (see below) well past 500K on cheap (mostly Purolator) filters ...
Purolators were pretty high efficiency, even the old white Classic was up there (97~98% @ 20u).
Not when their media was ripping.
Originally Posted By: CR94
I kept a vehicle (see below) well past 500K on cheap (mostly Purolator) filters ...
Purolators were pretty high efficiency, even the old white Classic was up there (97~98% @ 20u).
Not when their media was ripping.
I used OEM many times on my Tacoma previously. Never had one single problem and they were about $6.50 a pop. I just decided to run a FU because it's only $3.50 more and much better in the efficiency segment. I definitely feel more confident about running it 7.5 to 10k miles over the OEM paper element, which I'm sure breaks down a bit after 5000 miles and is bothersome. My Toyota sees mostly highway miles, though, 60 miles a day for work.
Plus it's nice supporting a company that makes stuff here in the USA. Filters may be cheap, but, there's a whole lot of men and women responsible for them getting to the consumer so it's a good feeling ensuring they have a job to do, as well!
Plus it's nice supporting a company that makes stuff here in the USA. Filters may be cheap, but, there's a whole lot of men and women responsible for them getting to the consumer so it's a good feeling ensuring they have a job to do, as well!
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
DENSO
Thank you Tony10s, I needed that.
Originally Posted By: Tony10s
DENSO
Thank you Tony10s, I needed that.
Simple way to find out if it makes much difference is run 2-4 runs of 10k OCIs with an OEM Toyota filter and then run another 2-4 OCIs with a Fram Ultra or other premium filter and compare the UOA. Make sure to use the same oil of course. I’m sure both results will be very close.
I think what OEM vehicle manufacturers are saying is, oil flow is more important to engine life than micro filtering of the oil potentially restricting flow. This is also the reason most have lowered the relief valve pressure to 8 psi vs 16 psi years ago. More than likely to help cold start oil flow, since lack of oil flow for any period of time at startup is worse than unfiltered flow at startup.
Originally Posted By: shinyWheels
Simple way to find out if it makes much difference is run 2-4 runs of 10k OCIs with an OEM Toyota filter and then run another 2-4 OCIs with a Fram Ultra or other premium filter and compare the UOA. Make sure to use the same oil of course. I’m sure both results will be very close.
Need more than just a basic UOA ... also need an ISO cleanliness particle count.
Simple way to find out if it makes much difference is run 2-4 runs of 10k OCIs with an OEM Toyota filter and then run another 2-4 OCIs with a Fram Ultra or other premium filter and compare the UOA. Make sure to use the same oil of course. I’m sure both results will be very close.
Need more than just a basic UOA ... also need an ISO cleanliness particle count.
Because everyone on BITOG worries too much. What lives in your engine that you need to filter? I've put millions of miles on Orange Cans of Death, OEMs, and cheap jobber filters. Never an engine issue. My favorite combo is synthetic with an OCOD for 10k miles. Your engine won't implode, regardless of what BITOG members say.
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