Tell your dad I'm using oil in my cars that's been in my garage 15-25 years. 2 of my cars have over 200K miles with about 1/2 quart oil usage every 3-4K miles.I agree. Just my dad is under the impression oil will go bad if it’s open for more than a couple of weeks which I have explained to him multiple times it won’t go bad for a very long time even open it’s just his former mechanic swore on that and he refuses to change his mind so we have to buy the quarts.
I've still got about 2 or 3 cases of the aged stuff that's about 25 years old and I'd say about 10-12 cases of the 15 year old stuff. It's also mostly 10w40 instead of the watered down stuff most manufacturers recommend now.That’s great. Heck even I didn’t know it would last that long lol.
That’s great it’s hard to even find 10W-40 anymore especially in a conventional like I use in my truck.I've still got about 2 or 3 cases of the aged stuff that's about 25 years old and I'd say about 10-12 cases of the 15 year old stuff. It's also mostly 10w40 instead of the watered down stuff most manufacturers recommend now.
I don't see where he said it stopped burning oil, I saw this..If it completely wore out, then why did it stop burning oil?
Mine still burns oil lol it’s a 2004 Camry but it’s a 4 cylinder we do 3000 mile oil changes it burns about a quart to a quart and a half in between the oil changes we use high mileage synthetic blend in it and conventional sometimes too or a mix of both usually Castrol, Pennzoil or Valvoline or sometimes Havoline or Quaker State it’s burned oil for about the last 3 years or so and it probably needs new piston rings but my dad doesn’t want to spend any more money on it right now.
We know the full history on it we are the second owners purchased in 2010 with 47,000 from an individual only ever worked on at Toyota. Now it’s got 279,000 no visible leaks except a slight one around the pan which I am going to replace the pan gasket when it gets warmer but it’s just a drip here and there nothing major. We run 5W-30 in it year round I was thinking of maybe using some 5W-40 in it when it gets a bit warmer. My dad won’t use Rotella in it because that’s a diesel oil and he is worried that would damage the engine. He uses a mix of stuff in the oil too like Seafoam, MMO, and Lucas oil stabilizer sometimes.
This could crack the code maybe!! You should report the differences in consumption afterwards like I did.I have a 09 Scion with the 2.4L oil burner. I bought it used from family with 95k on it and it burned some oil, maybe a quart in 3000 miles, it would get worse in winter. It had always been maintained per Toyotas recommended intervals.
I beat on the car like it owed me money, lots of full throttle redline acceleration, manually shifting running it up to redline and holding the gear to slow down for the next turn, the first oil change I did on it there was alot of carbon in the filter, it seemed to have helped with the oil burning some. Certainly didnt hurt it!
Very informational reads thank you!Valve guide wear and valve seals can also contribute to oil getting into the cylinders, it not necessarily just ring issues. The conditions that contribute to ring sticking (varnish and deposits) will not necessarily show up in a UOA either. This is the area that is hottest and most damaging to lubricants.
This is why I have always been against extended OCI, on tear down the top end can look nice but once you yank the pistons the ring grooves can be a real mess.
Once this happens the rings can stop rotating and if they stop in the wrong place you can end up with a oil burner and lowered compression.
The rings groove condition must be kept clean enough to allow ring rotation to keep the engine in proper working order. Interesting read, not only applicable to race engines but all IC engines..
Piston rings lead a much more active life than might be thought. While we usually imagine that they only reciprocate in a motion defined by the piston, they also rotate during service. Such rotation has been the subject of many experiments and studies over the years, but this is not simply a...www.highpowermedia.com
I've seen people putting whatever the Autozone brand of oil is into a Maserati LOL! Right in the Bronx...Funny you bring up black rear end vehicle from burning oil...
I saw a Audi A5 which the back end was BLACK from burning oil... And that car could not have been all that old. I'd guess 4-5 years old. No surprise.... Girl went into AAP and bought 2 quarts of oil... Added it to her oil burning Audi A5..
I'm too cheap to buy the individual quarts, so I always buy a 5qt jug when it's on sale and transfer it into a 1qt for top up. I used to need 2qts between 3k oil changes and now it's down to 1 with m1 0w40 (time will tell if that is permanent or just a fluke).Mine still burns oil lol it’s a 2004 Camry but it’s a 4 cylinder we do 3000 mile oil changes it burns about a quart to a quart and a half in between the oil changes we use high mileage synthetic blend in it and conventional sometimes too or a mix of both usually Castrol, Pennzoil or Valvoline or sometimes Havoline or Quaker State it’s burned oil for about the last 3 years or so and it probably needs new piston rings but my dad doesn’t want to spend any more money on it right now. It doesn’t bother me that it burns oil but it is a pain having to always spend money on the individual quarts of oil like $7 or $8 sometimes less depending on where you get it.
Yeah the quarts can be expensive. I haven’t tried any 40 in mine yet.I'm too cheap to buy the individual quarts, so I always buy a 5qt jug when it's on sale and transfer it into a 1qt for top up. I used to need 2qts between 3k oil changes and now it's down to 1 with m1 0w40 (time will tell if that is permanent or just a fluke).
Do some good 5k oci with a full synthetic, I would bump the grade to a 30w if your using a 20w or bump to 40w to really slow down the burning otherwise your cats will fail, happened on my prius after 100k with it burning oil. It may not hurt to have it see some high rpms to possibly clean those rings like in my case, or it could just be a leaky gasket tooI've got an '08 Scion XB thats also an oil burner. I bought it new, sold it to my parents for my brother at around 70 or 80k. Didn't burn oil. At some point it started burning oil but didn't burn enough to get the recall. So anyway my brother has been driving and just checking the oil sometimes when he remembered. I got it back a couple weeks ago trying to baby the transmission back to health cause it started not going into drive. It would reverse but not drive. Needless to say, a couple drain and refills later and it has been doing very well since they towed it to my house. Since I've had it it was topped up and then I checked it yesterday and it wasn't even touching the dipstick. I need to watch it closely cause apparently it burns oil fast! Doesn't drip, doesn't smoke and drives pretty darn good with 175k on it. Every now and then when you start it up and rev it a bit it will spit some oil out the exhaust when its cold. Honestly I'm surprised the cat hasn't been damaged or anything else. Its literally been burning oil for probably at least 80k miles. I'm going to try some things I've seen on here to try to slow it down. I might just keep it and drive it until it spits a rod out the block or something, it's given us plenty of life I'd say.
Thats good stick with the 5w30 and see how much less it burns, if no change bump to 0w40 or 5w40. Stick with a synthetic and keep blowing those cobwebs with high rpms for a 5k oci mark then drive it normally for a new 5k miles and then you can see if anything changed.I actually just topped it up with some 5w30 high mileage synthetic cause I had a 5qt jug of it for my car. Im not sure what my brother was putting in it. The last oil change we did with 5w20 high mileage synthetic. SuperTech stuff. I use to run semi-syth ford stuff 5w20 when it was new cause I was broke and it seemed to work fine and I had no issues. Always changed it at 5k. I've been driving it pretty hard on the way to work to blow the cobwebs out.