Toyota Engine Stopped Burning Oil

Messages
3,532
Location
Roanoke Virginia
Just buy a 5 quart jug and refill the single quart bottles. Much more economical.
I agree. Just my dad is under the impression oil will go bad if it’s open for more than a couple of weeks which I have explained to him multiple times it won’t go bad for a very long time even open it’s just his former mechanic swore on that and he refuses to change his mind so we have to buy the quarts.
 
Messages
791
Location
Massachusetts
Yes i have those same experiences. I also dont think additives would help with that, also good oils already have those additives in it.

I dont know if you also got that engine in the states but the VAG volkswagen audi skoda seat 1.8 tfsi engines where know to sometimes burn a quart every 400 miles. VW maintained such tight specs/tolerances that the rings would seize due to carbon buildup.
I often see cars with those engines driving which are all black at the rear from the burned oil.

There where 3rd party companies that could install different pistons with wider specs and that redeemed the problems.
Don't think I've ever seen that engine, but I can imagine what that looks like when it's torn down. I have seen the Audi engines with oil consumption for sure though...it's like a badge of honor on the A4's.
 
Messages
5,582
Location
Los Gatos, CA
Mine still burns oil lol it’s a 2004 Camry but it’s a 4 cylinder we do 3000 mile oil changes it burns about a quart to a quart and a half in between the oil changes we use high mileage synthetic blend in it and conventional sometimes too or a mix of both usually Castrol, Pennzoil or Valvoline or sometimes Havoline or Quaker State it’s burned oil for about the last 3 years or so and it probably needs new piston rings but my dad doesn’t want to spend any more money on it right now. It doesn’t bother me that it burns oil but it is a pain having to always spend money on the individual quarts of oil like $7 or $8 sometimes less depending on where you get it.
Do you know the service history? Does it have leaks or is it just burning the oil? Mileage?
Maybe try a heavier weight or even some Shell Rotella?
The Toyotas I deal with, like my Tundra, have been long runners.
 
Messages
3,532
Location
Roanoke Virginia
Do you know the service history? Does it have leaks or is it just burning the oil? Mileage?
Maybe try a heavier weight or even some Shell Rotella?
The Toyotas I deal with, like my Tundra, have been long runners.
We know the full history on it we are the second owners purchased in 2010 with 47,000 from an individual only ever worked on at Toyota. Now it’s got 279,000 no visible leaks except a slight one around the pan which I am going to replace the pan gasket when it gets warmer but it’s just a drip here and there nothing major. We run 5W-30 in it year round I was thinking of maybe using some 5W-40 in it when it gets a bit warmer. My dad won’t use Rotella in it because that’s a diesel oil and he is worried that would damage the engine. He uses a mix of stuff in the oil too like Seafoam, MMO, and Lucas oil stabilizer sometimes.
 
Messages
5,582
Location
Los Gatos, CA
We know the full history on it we are the second owners purchased in 2010 with 47,000 from an individual only ever worked on at Toyota. Now it’s got 279,000 no visible leaks except a slight one around the pan which I am going to replace the pan gasket when it gets warmer but it’s just a drip here and there nothing major. We run 5W-30 in it year round I was thinking of maybe using some 5W-40 in it when it gets a bit warmer. My dad won’t use Rotella in it because that’s a diesel oil and he is worried that would damage the engine. He uses a mix of stuff in the oil too like Seafoam, MMO, and Lucas oil stabilizer sometimes.
Please understand that Rotella is not solely a diesel; it is gas and diesel. Tons of detergent.
I am running it in a '68 427 Corvette and '65 4-4-2; both with original engines which is a big deal to collectors.
I betcha it would help.
Congrats on the 279K by the way. Well done.
 

RateNate

Thread starter
Messages
123
Location
California, United States
Maybe the previous owner did not change the oil on time or ran some cheap dino for too long ...

I will buy a "babied" car over an aggressively driven car any time. Never had any issues with babied cars new or used.

speaking of Italian tuneup ... buy a used car from a high school kid and report back :)
Good point too, couldve been bad oci which wouldnt suprise me theres a bright red triangle that pops up when the oci comes so you cant miss that lol unless if they didnt care. Hahaha yea HS kids definitely do more than the italian tuneup to their cars, I stopped "beating" on this thing now and just plan on driving it like I used to, which I'm very happy for
 
Messages
3,532
Location
Roanoke Virginia
Please understand that Rotella is not solely a diesel; it is gas and diesel. Tons of detergent.
I am running it in a '68 427 Corvette and '65 4-4-2; both with original engines which is a big deal to collectors.
I betcha it would help.
Congrats on the 279K by the way. Well done.
Yeah I have tried explaining that to him but he listens to too many YouTube mechanics who tell him he can’t use it even when I try to explain it to him lol. Yeah I am happy with the 279,000 as well only major things it’s had done is 4 sets of wheel bearings because the first 3 sets we got some less expensive ones which were a reputable name but the quality has went down a lot so when we got some good ones we got them in and are still going strong and it’s had 4 alternators but that’s because auto parts store alternators are no good lol and I’m about to put a whole new exhaust system on as the muffler broke away from the tailpipe recently just waiting on the parts and copper anti seize to come in lol and then rebuilt the entire front suspension last month. So I think it’s good to go for another 279K hopefully lol.
 
Messages
253
Location
SW Missouri
I experienced something similar in my 94 Toyota Tercel. I had been running 10w30 Rotella as I had a stash of it and would have to add a quart or so on a 3k mile OCI. I switched to 5w40 Schaeffer to consolidate oil types and when I stopped my long commute was running 7k miles with no consumption.
 
Messages
118
Aren't you going for flow rate?

If I recall, thinner oil will have more flow and for lack of a better word volume of oil vs thicker oil of same amount, pressure, everything. Almost like, there is more oil in the cylinder wall, which is what the ring scrapes against.. if that makes any sense?

I am not an expert, so, someone will come along and tell me if there are any problems with what I just said.

As to the Ring Trick. Since the suggestion is that a stuck piston ring (one that either does not or does not fully expand to scrape oil off the wall in a stroke) is causing oil consumption. Perhaps due to increased heat?
In this particular case it has zero to do with flow rate. Zero. Talking entirely about a thinner oil for rehab of rings that obviously are not shot. If rings were shot it would still burn oil. Old trick that sometimes works if your rings are gunked up.
 
Messages
25,147
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
We know the full history on it we are the second owners purchased in 2010 with 47,000 from an individual only ever worked on at Toyota. Now it’s got 279,000 no visible leaks except a slight one around the pan which I am going to replace the pan gasket when it gets warmer but it’s just a drip here and there nothing major. We run 5W-30 in it year round I was thinking of maybe using some 5W-40 in it when it gets a bit warmer. My dad won’t use Rotella in it because that’s a diesel oil and he is worried that would damage the engine. He uses a mix of stuff in the oil too like Seafoam, MMO, and Lucas oil stabilizer sometimes.

At almost 300K it may be just plain worn out.
 
Messages
3,133
Location
Western S.C.
.... The conditions that contribute to ring sticking (varnish and deposits) will not necessarily show up in a UOA either. This is the area that is hottest and most damaging to lubricants.
Yet, increasing the ring-belt temperature through an "Italian tune-up" will prevent or cure the problem, supposedly. That's ironic. Maybe there's some intermediate temperature worse than either low or high, if sustained too long?

I haven't seen a convincing explanation of exactly why some supposedly well-maintained engines have the ring-coking issue and others of identical design don't.

My Toyota is supposedly highly susceptible, but seemingly does not have the problem, so far.
 
Messages
9,016
Location
Virginia
Yes i have those same experiences. I also dont think additives would help with that, also good oils already have those additives in it.

I dont know if you also got that engine in the states but the VAG volkswagen audi skoda seat 1.8 tfsi engines where know to sometimes burn a quart every 400 miles. VW maintained such tight specs/tolerances that the rings would seize due to carbon buildup.
I often see cars with those engines driving which are all black at the rear from the burned oil.

There where 3rd party companies that could install different pistons with wider specs and that redeemed the problems.


Funny you bring up black rear end vehicle from burning oil...

I saw a Audi A5 which the back end was BLACK from burning oil... And that car could not have been all that old. I'd guess 4-5 years old. No surprise.... Girl went into AAP and bought 2 quarts of oil... Added it to her oil burning Audi A5..
 
Messages
9,016
Location
Virginia
I own a K24 in a 2006 TSX purchased new. 200K. I never check the oil and it stays amber.
Serviced with mainly M1 at max 5K intervals.

I service 2 other TSXs, they go through 1/2 to 1 quart in 5K miles. Both have far fewer miles.
One was quickie lube serviced the other dealer serviced, both at MM intervals.


If you never check the oil.... Then how do you know it stays Amber????

:LOL:

Just messing with you.... That don't make sense if you think about it though.
 
Messages
646
Location
South Carolina
So I made a thread about this awhile ago
After 6+ oci with a synthetic oil I stopped burning oil. First thing I noticed while driving conservatively the most part for the first two oci (3500 max rpms but mostly 2100) and loosing over 1 quart during those first two 5k oci I decided to change my driving style. Afterwards I drove more aggressively rpm wise and not too much in the speed range (its why im still alive typing this for you 😆) this somehow cleaned up my potentially stuck rings which made me think that the previous owners babied it and drove it conservatively too much so that didnt help with the faulty piston ring design, so the high rpms help with these "older" v6 toyota engines with piston ring issues and especially if babied and not wrung out every so often. The synthetic oil I used was pp/pup due to their gtl claims, and am quite happy with the results, it was quite dark for the first 3 oci where it may have cleaned the old excess oil that was in the system and potential piston ring junk, I am not a pennzoil loyalist either since I still use mobil and other oils (castrol, oriellys etc) for different vehicles. I dont claim this will automatically fix your oil burning issue for your engine (could be leaks or more serious problems), but in my rare case it did. Would using another oil work I think so but the gtl did show color differences that wouldnt be possible with other brands, and the lighter it got the less oil it used. I know the higher heat caused by the rpms removed junk within the rings and engine overall, and I also drive long distances so oil always warms up so no short trips. I also wanted to thank everyone who posted on my old thread and taught me how to better monitor the oil and what I could change, super thankful for all of you!
That's why everytime i change my parents cars oil, I floor it and leave it in 3rd gear for awhile. They just puttputt around never rev the engine past 2.5k. Just a little Italian tune up.
 
Messages
9,016
Location
Virginia
Even Nissan (and Infiniti) engines. Just the nature of the beast.


Maybe true....

My 2008 VQ motor does not hardly burn too much oil at all in 5k miles. Maybe 6-10 ozs. .

Now I have certainly read where the earlier generation of VQ motors did burn quite a bit of oil at times.... Like a quart in 1,000-1,500 miles.
 
Messages
5,582
Location
Los Gatos, CA
If you never check the oil.... Then how do you know it stays Amber????

:LOL:

Just messing with you.... That don't make sense if you think about it though.
The huge oil puddles on the garage floor...
Or maybe I spilled it? Dunno for sure.

Wait... That's that dang Tesla leaking that Mobil 1...
All the cars look the same to me after awhile...
 
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