How much difference is there between a 5w/30 and a 10w/30 syn oil .
Toyota 4.7 liter V8 oil questions
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Joe, go to the Used Oil Analysis section to find Chinee's results for his Sequoia with the same engine. 5W-30 Mobil-1 works beautifully in this engine year round, complies with the owner's manual's requirements, and gets better gas mileage to boot.
No need to go looking for my UOA... I inserted a link to it a few replies above. There's 2 UOAs on the page, the first is 5W30, the second 10W30, both M1.
Do you think maybe because the Tundra has a engine coolant oil cooler it keeps the oil at a constant temperature thus easier on oil??
To be honest with you... I used to use M1 5W30 all the time. I was getting good reports back from Blackstone on the 4.7 and bad iron/lead wear ratio on my Lexus 3.0. They suggested I switch to 10W30. Sure enough, my reports have all started to return to perfect. I did not feel like buying 2 diff types of M1, so i just started using it in my 4.7 as well. I cant tell any difference at all: oil usage, mileage, color, anything. There is something about that 4.7, I think you could put wesson oil in that thing and it would run perfect.
Just about any oil will give the 4.7L good results. See the UOA section for lots of Toyota/Lexus V8 analyises. Get a couple of short OCIs to rinse out the engine prior to the normal 7.5k interval. I wouldn't bother with analysis either. The oil sump is big. I know that the Sequoia's/TRD Tundra have oil coolers. And, there is room for larger oil filters for those who want a little more oil capacity. See filter section.
Any of the 5w30/10w30/0w40/5w40 synthetics should allow the engine to last forever with a reasonable OCI. I've also used the 10w30 and 15w50 year round in RI(same bad winters as NJ). So, need for a 5w30 isn't necessary.
I like Toyos thinking, convenience of one weight for multiple vehicles is good.
Also, don't be a warranty doom monger. There is too much warranty worry in the world. Research magnuson/moss act and locate a friendly dealer. The Tundra owners manual that I've looked at will allow a 7.5k OCI. Also, a synthetic will be used which can easily make 7.5k in this engine.
Any of the 5w30/10w30/0w40/5w40 synthetics should allow the engine to last forever with a reasonable OCI. I've also used the 10w30 and 15w50 year round in RI(same bad winters as NJ). So, need for a 5w30 isn't necessary.
I like Toyos thinking, convenience of one weight for multiple vehicles is good.
Also, don't be a warranty doom monger. There is too much warranty worry in the world. Research magnuson/moss act and locate a friendly dealer. The Tundra owners manual that I've looked at will allow a 7.5k OCI. Also, a synthetic will be used which can easily make 7.5k in this engine.
Thanks to everyone for the replies. I'm going to do another change at 3000 miles, still using dino oil 10w30 and change again at 5000 miles. If I see my mpg steady out(only at 2000 now) by the 5000 mark, I will switch over to Mobil1 10w30. If its not steady yet, I will run the dino until it is steady. I dont want to switch over early, although I know you can. With Mobil1 10w30 I will stick to the 5000 mile interval and do an analysis after the first run. If all looks well I dont think I will continue analysis, but would do one again at say 25,000 miles intervals.
Great board, Ive read the messages back to page 73 already.
Joe
Great board, Ive read the messages back to page 73 already.
Joe
As a fellow member of the privileged 2UZ club, I have a prediction for you: your 5k UOA will be virtually meaningless, except that it will generate some oooos and ahhhhhs of envy over in the UOA section. In a couple of weeks, I'll be pulling another sample from my wife's Sequoia. Based upon my own phenomenal results and the others I've seen here, I'm trying to decide whether there will be any reason at all to dump the oil after six months and about 4k miles (wife's local cruiser). I'm thinking of just putting on a new filter as a precaution, and going another 3-6 months then seeing where we are.
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