Toyota 2gr-fks engine oil

[JNG]

I bought a new '19 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 TRD Offroad back in March. It has the 2gr-fks 3.5 liter v6 engine. Toyota specifies a SAE 0w-20 oil that meets ILSAC GF-5. As an alternative you can use a 5w-20. Toyota also specifies a 10k OCI unless you fall under severe use, then it's 5k.

I cannot bring myself to go to 10k OCI's. Too old school I guess. I also fall under a few of the severe usages. So I will change the oil every 5k. The first oil change will be soon (under 2500 miles) to dump any break in wear particulate, then every 5k.

I plan on buying the OEM filter from either Amazon in bulk or from the local dealer.

I've tried my best to learn some of the terminology here on bitog, like tbn/hths/moft/etc. I also am aware that darn near any 0w-20 I dump in the sump will enable the engine to outlast either the frame or body. That said, anyone care to make a recommendation on which 0w-20 to use? I'm only concerned about wear, fuel dilution, and carbon buildup in the oil control rings. Not noise. Not mpg.

Finally, I'm not interested in testing Toyota's patience concerning the warranty if there is an engine problem, so I'm sticking with 0w-20 ILSAC GF-5 for the duration of the power train warranty. Also if you recommend Mobil 1 for example, specify which one because there are a few M1 0w-20's. I know bitoger's tire of "what oil to use" threads so bear with me.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Mobil1 Annual Protection 0w20 (walmart, etc.) is majority-PAO, SN GF-5, dexos1 Gen2, that's the "just use the best oil" type of philosophy there. Castrol Edge gold-jug at walmart is similarly great. Change at normal Toyota recommended oil change intervals.
Fram Ultra XG9972 oil filters are better than OEM Toyota ones. 4548-12 filtering performance is better, and they are wire-backed, silicone ADBV, etc., robust.

As a slight step down, go with any 0w-20 that meets SN GF-5, as they are all OK.... walmart is almost always the cheapest source in 5-quart jugs.
Havoline ProDS ordered off the web for pickup at a local walmart if you want the new latest 6-quart bag-box, that would work well.

 

[rummy]

Easy answer... pick your favorite color bottle and sleep well at night. As long as it meets the spec you're fine. I run a 10W-30 in my 18 Tacoma, with same engine. How bout' that? Has she blown up? No. Can I run 0W-20? Sure. Do I Want to? No. Am I worried about Warranty? Nah, it's a Toyota. Now, if it would have been a Jaguar or some other crap like that then yes.

 

[BLND1]

Just do what every other Tacomaworld.com owner does as go with Mobil1.

Or with whatever.

 

[marc1]

Originally Posted by JNG
That said, anyone care to make a recommendation on which 0w-20 to use? Also if you recommend Mobil 1 for example, specify which one because there are a few M1 0w-20's.


I currently use M1 0w20 EP (Extended Protection) in mine. We get it on sale frequently up here in Canada so that works for me. I use the M1 (251) filter as well for the same reason, it is frequently on sale.

 

[PimTac]

You can use any major brand of oil that meets the specs for your Tacoma.

 

[dlundblad]

I run 5w30 synthetic in my mom's 2015 4Runner TRD Pro (4.0 V6). Lately I've just been using Castrol Magnatec because it's preferred with dad's 3.5 Eco Boost Ford Tortoise, but I doubt the 'Yoda cares as much. 1 oil for 2 vehicles. No MPG hits, no blown up engine etc. The truck has about 50k on it.

Used to do the 10k thing with 0w20, but that was too long for her driving IMO. The truck is now used for towing on occasion and per the manual "going up a grade" if used for towing is acceptable. The Toyota filter IMO is the best bang for the buck, but I haven't noticed any differences with other brands either.. These should also have a fiber crush washer for the oil drain plug if it's like the 4Runner.

 

[Gebo]

Since you are looking for opinions, here is mine. I'd do the first oil change at 2k and then again at 5k and then every 5K after that. I'd use Toyota air and oil filters but only buy them from Toyota (too many fake ones on the internet). I'd use Toyota 0w20 synthetic oil.
This oil is fantastic.

As she ages, I would use only Toyota ATF and Coolant. Amsoil in the differentials.

 

[JNG]

Originally Posted by Gebo
Since you are looking for opinions, here is mine. I'd do the first oil change at 2k and then again at 5k and then every 5K after that. I'd use Toyota air and oil filters but only buy them from Toyota (too many fake ones on the internet). I'd use Toyota 0w20 synthetic oil.
This oil is fantastic.

As she ages, I would use only Toyota ATF and Coolant. Amsoil in the differentials.


Other than the Amsoil, your opinion in largely the same as my gut instinct on this.

 

[Gebo]

Here is a copy and paste from Tacoma World from May 14, 2018. CANNOT VERIFY TRUTHFULNESS:


You're right - the Toyota brand synthetic oil is unique. Even the factory fill break-in oil is unique. Below is some insider information about Toyota's factory fill oil as of 2008 and when to change it (not for at least 500-1000 miles). This insider information was provided by a Nippon Oil sales rep on another Toyota forum back in 2008 who wrote:
————————————————————————————————————————————
"Just FYI, the factory fill 0W-20 for the 07+ Tundra are fully synthetic. A small portion of the 0W-20 is made by Mobil while the rest are made by Nippon Oil (whom I work for)."

"Toyota doesn't require synthetic oil for subsequent changes I believe, but it definitely comes with it from the factory. In fact, quite a few Toyotas come with our 0W-20 from the factory.

"We don't make the 0W-20 provided to Toyota available for sale to other car companies. It probably is a formulation licensed to Toyota and thus only they have the rights to it."

"This is pretty common. For example, the new GTR coming from Nissan uses exclusively a gear oil our company created for them. But it is only sold to Nissan and no one else, so you will not find that product in the product section of our Nippon oil website."

"Previously manufacturers did not recommend breaking in new vehicles with full synthetic oil due to how smooth it is that it will not property break in the motor. But the 0W-20 full synthetic provided to Toyota at factory fill is a special formula created for Toyota, so it will allow proper break in."

"Yes, I do work for Nippon as mentioned previously. You don't have to believe me, just take it as someone's opinion if you don't trust who I am. Not ALL of a car manufacturer's oil comes from one company alone. However, all the 0W-20 coming from the factory as well as the red bottle genuine oil are produced by either Nippon Oil or Mobil. They are produced for Toyota, so it's a Toyota product, not a Nippon Oil branded or Mobil branded product. You will find a Mobil 1 (Mobil brand) 0W-20 as well as our own ENEOS 0W-20 (Nippon brand). You are right though, different Toyota manufacturing plants are supplied by different oil companies. I believe we supply a majority of the plants except the one in South Carolina (not 100% sure on locaton). That one is Mobil."

If you JUST purchased a new Tundra, you probably shouldn't change out the factory 0W-20 for ENEOS 0W-20 for at least 500-1000 miles. The reason being our ENEOS 0W-20 is of higher grade and is extremely smooth, so it will be difficult to break in the motor properly."

 

[Gebo]

Here is a copy and paste from Tacoma World from May 14, 2018. CANNOT VERIFY TRUTHFULNESS:


You're right - the Toyota brand synthetic oil is unique. Even the factory fill break-in oil is unique. Below is some insider information about Toyota's factory fill oil as of 2008 and when to change it (not for at least 500-1000 miles). This insider information was provided by a Nippon Oil sales rep on another Toyota forum back in 2008 who wrote:
————————————————————————————————————————————
"Just FYI, the factory fill 0W-20 for the 07+ Tundra are fully synthetic. A small portion of the 0W-20 is made by Mobil while the rest are made by Nippon Oil (whom I work for)."

"Toyota doesn't require synthetic oil for subsequent changes I believe, but it definitely comes with it from the factory. In fact, quite a few Toyotas come with our 0W-20 from the factory.

"We don't make the 0W-20 provided to Toyota available for sale to other car companies. It probably is a formulation licensed to Toyota and thus only they have the rights to it."

"This is pretty common. For example, the new GTR coming from Nissan uses exclusively a gear oil our company created for them. But it is only sold to Nissan and no one else, so you will not find that product in the product section of our Nippon oil website."

"Previously manufacturers did not recommend breaking in new vehicles with full synthetic oil due to how smooth it is that it will not property break in the motor. But the 0W-20 full synthetic provided to Toyota at factory fill is a special formula created for Toyota, so it will allow proper break in."

"Yes, I do work for Nippon as mentioned previously. You don't have to believe me, just take it as someone's opinion if you don't trust who I am. Not ALL of a car manufacturer's oil comes from one company alone. However, all the 0W-20 coming from the factory as well as the red bottle genuine oil are produced by either Nippon Oil or Mobil. They are produced for Toyota, so it's a Toyota product, not a Nippon Oil branded or Mobil branded product. You will find a Mobil 1 (Mobil brand) 0W-20 as well as our own ENEOS 0W-20 (Nippon brand). You are right though, different Toyota manufacturing plants are supplied by different oil companies. I believe we supply a majority of the plants except the one in South Carolina (not 100% sure on locaton). That one is Mobil."

If you JUST purchased a new Tundra, you probably shouldn't change out the factory 0W-20 for ENEOS 0W-20 for at least 500-1000 miles. The reason being our ENEOS 0W-20 is of higher grade and is extremely smooth, so it will be difficult to break in the motor properly."

 

[Gebo]

Originally Posted by JNG
Originally Posted by Gebo
Since you are looking for opinions, here is mine. I'd do the first oil change at 2k and then again at 5k and then every 5K after that. I'd use Toyota air and oil filters but only buy them from Toyota (too many fake ones on the internet). I'd use Toyota 0w20 synthetic oil.
This oil is fantastic.

As she ages, I would use only Toyota ATF and Coolant. Amsoil in the differentials.


Other than the Amsoil, your opinion in largely the same as my gut instinct on this.


What is your opinion of Differential/Transfer case lube?

 

[ARCOgraphite]

If you use anything the engine will outlast the frame

Suppossedly M1 AP and EP are majority PAO synthetics per the MSDS I have seen.

 

[oil_film_movies]

Originally Posted by Gebo
Here is a copy and paste from Tacoma World from May 14, 2018. ....If you JUST purchased a new Tundra, you probably shouldn't change out the factory 0W-20 for ENEOS 0W-20 for at least 500-1000 miles. The reason being our ENEOS 0W-20 is of higher grade and is extremely smooth, so it will be difficult to break in the motor properly."
By saying "extremely smooth", he must be referring to the high moly treat rate. I use Eneos Racing Street 0w-20 which has 900 ppm moly in a hybrid car, and Toyota Genuine Motor Oil (TGMO) is known to have 800 ppm, similar to Idemitsu Zepro 0w20 & Mazda Genuine Motor Oil (MGMO) house-brand as well. Honda-Acura has stated in the past they like all the moly in the oil (from assembly lube) during break-in to prevent hot spots from forming.

When he says the Eneos "is of a higher grade", I guess that refers to use of GTL GroupIII+ base oils, same as in Eneos Racing Street 0w-20. Moly levels are similarly high across all those Japanese sourced oils.

One problem people have with Eneos, TGMO, and MGMO is that they use a lot of VII, possibly creating excessive ring deposits over a long period of use. For break-in, or in an easy duty cycle such as hybrids, it might be a good idea to use the high-moly high-VII oils. For the long term in a Tacoma V6, any 0w20 will work just fine.

Suggested plan: Change out the factory fill in 3,000 miles and put in a long-term high-PAO oil like M1 EP or AP. Most of the breaking-in will have been done in 3,000 miles, and there will be elevated levels of iron particles to get out.

 

[Bryanccfshr]

You have toyota care so this is what I would do.. actually I do do,
I have an 18 taco and 18trd pro 4 runner
At 5 k after your first service (tire rotations inspections windshield washer fluid top off) drain your oil and replace it.

At 10 and 20 k or 1 year let them change it. At 30 k learn to change your filter.

I am running Mobil 1 0w40 in my 18 Tacoma Trd off-road. It gets used at sustained high speed cruising. Actually made a mpg record for my return from west Texas trip Wednesday night cruising at 82 mph for 260 miles on I10

My 4 runner has Havoline pro DS in 10w30.

Enjoy the taco, it has some quirks in the power-band because there are a lot of timing, fuel injection mode, valve overlap and intake runner changes occurring during operation.

 

[Gebo]

YouTube on counterfeit filters.

 

[edyvw]

Originally Posted by rummy
Easy answer... pick your favorite color bottle and sleep well at night. As long as it meets the spec you're fine. I run a 10W-30 in my 18 Tacoma, with same engine. How bout' that? Has she blown up? No. Can I run 0W-20? Sure. Do I Want to? No. Am I worried about Warranty? Nah, it's a Toyota. Now, if it would have been a Jaguar or some other crap like that then yes.

Yep, my best man was of same opinion.
Bought 2018 Highlander, now he claims he will burn it to the ground due to transmission issues.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Sam thing with my neighbors Rav. I think that was a Canadian built car. Though I suppose the trans is JAPAN.

Maybe ALDL software upload issues at the Factory.