Toyota 2AZ-FE

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: Quest
I can tell by the exhaust tailpipe that it's "done" for.


Black tailpipes seem to be a Toyota thing. They all do it. I could not find one that didn't have soot. Plenty of old fords dry as a bone. Weird!


My tailpipe is pretty clean (clean enough to eat off, although i don't recommend that...haha), but I drive my RX very hard (ie. redline)... No carbon build-up in my RX...LOL

Your RX will be furious knowing your comparing it to a Toyota.....Go apologize!

 

[Bumpside 427]

The 2AZ-FE was not changed to use Xw20 oils. You CAN use it, but I got a letter from Scion as I asked them this question when I bought my '06 tC. The rumors were everywhere that it was changed in '06, but it was not.
If I must, I'll find the email from Scion and post the contents.
That said, I used 5w20 in the winter and had no issues. I used the Toyota Synthetic which I bought a case of. Stick to the 5w30. To me, it runs better.

 

[LeakySeals]

They changed the 2AZ-FE somewhere, because the biggest, most fatal flaw seemed to disappear after 04. The deadly stripped head-bolts. The condition is this....The plastic intake rests very slightly on a piece of foam that insulates it from the heat of the aluminum block. Under the foam are 3 bolt threads cast in the block for the head bolts. For some reason (speculation is heat trapped by the foam combined with hard use) the block threads under the foam strip. Without warning the head suddenly separates from the block, instant mixing of oil and coolant occur. Within minutes catastrophic failure. Most cases your calling a tow truck and a cab. Shes done. The TSB from Toyota is engine replacement. Bull. There are timesert kits being made to fix on eBay if it happens. Symptoms are a sloshing gurgling sound suddenly from the heating core. This problem is not rare. Quite frequent. All over the web if you search, Even a thread here on BITOG. Unfortunately now that I know, I'm very neurotic about draining the coolant every other year, watching the coolant level, and checking the foam for coolant leaks. Currently there are no signs, coolant stays perfect for over a year, car runs great. But I'm considering trading up past 06, because I know this flaw hits without warning.

 

[LTVibe]

Toyota released a TSB on March 29, 2006 that updated engine oil recommendations:

TSB No. EG018–06

Quote:
Initial application for 0W–20 is in the 2006 model year 2AZ–FE engine and will be used in new engines to be developed.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: LTVibe
Toyota released a TSB on March 29, 2006 that updated engine oil recommendations:

TSB No. EG018–06

Quote:
Initial application for 0W–20 is in the 2006 model year 2AZ–FE engine and will be used in new engines to be developed.






Thanks for that! I have the older engine in the Camry. The very end of the Toyota TSB states:

"NOTE: DO NOT use these oils in engines other than those listed above. These low–viscosity oils cannot maintain lubrication effectiveness in engines with older designs and could result in smoke emissions from the tailpipe and/or unusual engine noise."

That should cause an uproar on here. Don't shoot the messenger!

 

[Quest]

no issues on wifey's 04 2AZ-FE, black tailpipe, no valve seal leaks (which leads to blue smokes from get-go/cold start up).

factory coolant (Toy red) still in my wifey's radiator and I'm not intended to change it out until it hits 10yr mark (was topped up with factory toy coolant back when we bought the vehicle used in 2008, with balanced of warranty, serpentine belt(glazed abeit noisy) and water pump replaced based on my request).

Other than some very minor issues (like certain ones with water pump weep holes becoming wet after a few years of service, etc.) serpentine belt tensioner leaks (rare, but seen that before), 2AZ-FE seems to be a fairly well-designed/executed engine so far.


Lastly: RE: sooty tailpipe, it all has to do with how much raw/unburned fuel getting past the not-hot cat convertor. In other words: if you accelerate gently while the engine is cold to allow cat con to warm up to burn the excess HC, the resultant residual unburned carbon deposits (soot) on the tailpipe should be minimal.

Also: I'm not a big believer RE: italian tuneups, esp. on modern OBD-II vehicles.

Q.

 

[rcy]

Originally Posted By: LTVibe
Toyota released a TSB on March 29, 2006 that updated engine oil recommendations:

TSB No. EG018–06

Quote:
Initial application for 0W–20 is in the 2006 model year 2AZ–FE engine and will be used in new engines to be developed.






The chart I posted here

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2454895&page=1

is from Toyota Canada and I received it from them in January 2011. It's more up to date than the TSB from 2006.

I have a similar chart posted (in another thread) that I received from Lexus Canada for Lexus vehicles.

 

[LeakySeals]

All are black, been looking...and there are tons of 2az-fe's around here...maybe its the weather..

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: Quest
I can tell by the exhaust tailpipe that it's "done" for.


Black tailpipes seem to be a Toyota thing. They all do it. I could not find one that didn't have soot. Plenty of old fords dry as a bone. Weird!


My tailpipe is pretty clean (clean enough to eat off, although i don't recommend that...haha), but I drive my RX very hard (ie. redline)... No carbon build-up in my RX...LOL



Why dont you just ask that transmission to blow!

btw, my tailpipe is clean as a whistle also.

 

[hypervish]

Originally Posted By: lexus114
Why dont you just ask that transmission to blow!

btw, my tailpipe is clean as a whistle also.


hahah. it can handle it, it's a Toyota! It still shifts, and run's like new! Lexmex's transmission get's more abuse, and it's survived. LOL, except for when he had the accident in Mexico (rock + transmission = problem)...

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Why dont you just ask that transmission to blow!

btw, my tailpipe is clean as a whistle also.


hahah. it can handle it, it's a Toyota! It still shifts, and run's like new! Lexmex's transmission get's more abuse, and it's survived. LOL, except for when he had the accident in Mexico (rock + transmission = problem)...




Good ole Lexmex

he`s the best!

 

[Bumpside 427]

See below fellas. This is from Toyota.


Recently you contacted Scion Customer Experience. Below is a summary of your contact message and our response.

Thank you for allowing us to be of service to you.


Subject
2006 Scion tC oil requirements (2AZFE) 5w20 vs 5w30

Discussion Thread
Response (KFar) 03/25/2010 04:35 PM
Thank you for contacting Scion,

In response to your inquiry we recommend that you use 5W30

Please let us know if you have anymore questions.

Kaz Fardoost
Scion Customer Experience

Customer (x xx) 03/24/2010 06:30 AM
Hello, there is (still) much debate on the recommended oil for this engine.
I was shown numerous links to TSBs stating that =2006 should run 5w20 instead of 5w30.
Could you please clear this up? I want to make sure that I and others are using the correct oil in our cars. I have a 2006 purchased in December, 2005.

Here is the TSB which is confusing.
http://www.chrysanindustries.com/pdf/products/toyota_tsb071002.pdf

 

[Artem]

That TSB is worded completely retarded.

I have a 2006 tC and couldn't for the life of me figure out if i can run 5w20 or not.

At the top of the page it says ALL 2006 Toyota / Scion.

Mid way it mentions the 2006 2AZ-FE in my tC

Then on page 2, there's no mention of Scion and the 2AZ-FE is listed under Camry.

Now the post above saying to stick to using 5w30 in the Scion tC. I'm so lost it's not even funny.

 

[ltslimjim]

That response by Kaz Fardoost is complete couscous!!!

 

[Bumpside 427]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
That response by Kaz Fardoost is complete couscous!!!

It came from Toyota. If it is wrong, I got it here. I have to say though, I DO feel it runs better on 5w30. I've got 95k on it and I think that's enough to have a finely tuned butt-dyno. Bottom line is neither is going to hurt the engine, I'm sure. I'll just stick with the 30 for now. Can't believe it's been 6-years and almost 100k. 95% of which is my commute to work and home. I got the tC to be reliable for that purpose and it has been 100%. Only thing that went wrong in that time was a broken parking light wire fixed under warranty. A strong car for the money, although I do spend time and money maintaining it.