Totally impressed with my Magnafine trans filter

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Swapped out the Magnafine filter on the '08 Spectra today. Can't remember when I installed it, and I had another on the shelf so what the heck.

Then I opened up the used filter to see what was going on inside, and I have to say that I am totally
impressed with this thing. The amount of "gunk" stuck to the magnet was amazing. There is also a bunch of "crud" in the filter pleats. These things really do work. I know I've had it installed for much more than the 10k that it says on the label to replace them at. I'd put one of these on everything I own after seeing this.

Here are a coupl
e of pictures. They are not great, and it is hard to see everything, but trust me there is all sorts of stuff in here.






 
Looks like it doing its job.
Thanks for posting photos.

I put one on my transmission 6,000 miles ago.
When I remove it I will open it up & inspect.

I also put one on my power steering return line.
 
Easy to install. Probably harder to make sure you don't mix up the lines! HA! OP mentioned 10k removal??? For trans it's 30k.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Seems pretty inconsequential to me.


Say what?

Inconsequential how? Would like to understand your thinking on this.

That's a lot of gunk out of the system. You could call it a lot of things. "Inconsequential" wouldn't be one I would put high on the list. In the past, I have quoted the statistic on trans life vs contamination levels and the installation of this filter (other filters too) WILL bring down those contamination levels to a point that is optimal for long transmission fluid and transmission life. What's not to like?

Johnny: Did you change the oil when you installed the filter. Also, you say the label said change at 10K miles? The official FCI used to be 30K.
 
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Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
I've been wanting to put one of these on my Taurus and my Olds. Did you install it yourself? Was it hard to do? Looks like it's doing a super job.


Its pretty easy to install. Assuming you have some rubber transmission lines connecting the cooler and transmission. Takes all of 5 minutes. Just get under vehicle hold the filter along the line until you find a good spot, snip a few inches of line and push the filter in the lines and tighten the clamps.

Best in the return line but not required if you have not had a transmission failure. The filter does have a flow indicator arrow so get that correct.
 
Whether it's picked up inline or on the pan magnet and screen is not something I spend time worrying about. Perhaps my 89 Accord's transmission would have lasted half a million miles instead of 300,000 if I had used one? You will mot likely respond that the pan filter is just a "rock catcher."

The 300,000 mile failure was on the only car I kept long enough for that to happen. Sold a 72 Pontiac at 212,000 and a 93 Escort at 140,000. My daughter's Infiniti I30 has about 210,000 on it right now. Nothing but drain and fills.

I would not discourage you from using one if you want, but I don't feel the need. That must mean I can expect a transmission failure at ten miles past warranty. That's b-hockey. Automakers live for repeat business almost as much as they do first time sales. Bad automatics will fail independently of your compulsive maintenance schedule. I guess I have just been lucky enough to have had good ones in my cars.

I've been trying for years to become less compulsive. I think this site helps because it's like an "AA" for obsessive-compulsives, with the exception that we reinforce each other's OCD here instead of trying to lessen it. LOL.
 
Modern transmissions are more complex and less serviceable than in the past. If you've ever looked at the solenoid screen on a valve body that involves nearly tearing apart the transmission for access, you may feel differently.

Transmission failure is probably the most likely cause of vehicles going to the boneyard; rebuild (if it's even an option) or replacement is going to be more than the value of the car on most vehicles once it's over 150-200K. So, if you're keeping your car for longer than the warranty period better transmission filtration seems like a really good idea to me. Your own good fortune doesn't really change my mind on that one.

To the comments about the filter looking bad for a 2008, considering Jim Allen's constant (and well-documented) reminder that most wear occurs very early during a transmission's life, this really shouldn't be surprising at all. It the next filter looks that bad at the same mileage, then it may be a different story.
 
The Accord had only the inaccessible internal screen. There was a magnet on the end of the drain plug and It used to pick up a bit of that powdery black stuff.

I want to make sure nobody thinks I want to discourage them from using a filter like this. What I DO want to discourage people from doing is changing the fluid excessively and doing complete fluid changes when not necessary (i.e. might be necessary if your fluid overheated and became heavily oxidized).

Like I have stated before I am against wasting resources just because we CAN. The parts that wore out on my old car were not those that would have been helped by fluids. They were electrical, rubber, gasket, and suspension components.

I do realize that I am aided by a favorable climate for automotive longevity. We have mild winters and no road salt rust issues. It is hot, but only for about a quarter of the year. Synthetic fluids handle the temperature extremes.

Perhaps my Pontiac's transmission lasted as long as it did because I changed fluid and filter annually. It did go about 70,000 miles without being changed before I got the car. That was back when Dex II was the spec. The other cars have been maintained with only synthetic fluids - predominantly Mobil 1.

Here is something! IF you are using the Magnefine to its full potential I endorse it heartily. The manufacturer claims you can add 10,000 miles to your fluid change interval and never do a pan drop when using the filter. If that's why you are using it, awesome!
 
I thought it said 10k on the sticker, but may be wrong. That trans has 90k on it, and the fluid has been changed regularly and is clean. I really doubt it is any worse than any other trans. They seem to always have a good amount of stuff stuck to the magnets in the pan.
 
Johnny, forgive me. I tend to get on a soapbox at times. So many neglect basic maintenance activities and so many commercial interests are involved with promoting excessive maintenance that I try to relay my own experience. What I offer is anecdotal evidence only. I don't want to see people waste money and resources, but I do want to see them keep their vehicles as long as they desire. This is a complex relationship. Most do not change vehicles due to massive mechanical failure. It usually relates to style changes, safety equipment, or simply boredom. Anyone buying MY used vehicle is going to get a stellar deal. I have come to that point in my life at which I don't want to over or under maintain. I want to do what is environmentally best AND mechanically best.

The short version is, how do any of us KNOW? The OEM says one thing, the dealer says another, the LCD (lowest comm denom) shop says yet another, and then this site goes over the top. Which practice is really the right one?
 
My Subaru Forester has a spin-on AT filter and I changed it out at ~ 110,000 miles. When cut open, it looked like new without any of the grung I see in the above filter. Makes one wonder if the AT was going bad.
 
Mike,

I try to follow the manufacturers intervals as at least the minimum. This car was purchased with about 27k on the odo if I remember correctly. Right after purchase I flushed the trans, cooling system, power steering, and brake system. To me I've always done these type of things when purchasing a used vehicle. We don't know how it was treated before and its always nice peace of mind to start with a clean slate of maintenance. I then flushed the trans again at about 60k. I *think* this magnefine has approx 45k of use if I can remember correctly. The car is driven by a woman and it sees about 90% short trips with very little hwy miles. We are talking about 5 miles each way to work and back, and a bunch of errand driving around town. It is car that she will most likely own until it either dies or gets wrecked. She doesn't care about cars enough to want to new cool toy every couple of years. This was the newest car she has owned and just wants something that is going to work like its supposed to.

I feel totally fine with 30k intervals for a car like this. Its not really out of line with the owners manual, and the magnefine is a economical add on in terms of added protection and longevity.

We run 7.5k syn oil changes and I try to keep about 30k on the other items. The car pays back by never having a problem since it was purchased, and runs just like it didwhen she bought it. Its actually been a very great car. I know some people drive their cars forever without following maintenice schedules and they keep running, however I've noticed many many times the difference in drivability and reliance on a car with 100k+ with no maintenance vs one that has been maintained. To me I don't see the logic behind spending so much money on a vehicle and not investing in the maintenance. Ever been in a 20 yr old house that has never been taken care of? Not the same as 40yr house in which the owner takes care of.

Just my opinion.

All of that being said, the real world experience with the magnefine filter makes it a winner in my book.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
Seems pretty inconsequential to me.


Agreed. I had a couple leak on me from the body and that was enough. I was told that i probably had a knock off, i guess Amazon sells knock offs now.

I also posted about how Ford now does not approve of these only to be called out by one poster who was very charitable with the truth by omission of what Ford said.
I have always contended based on my experience that these units are just another source of possible leaks, etc, etc.

I don't care how much the fan club or resellers of this product try to spin in this speaks for itself in black and white.
With the attitude of many on BITOG that the Engineers know best whats for you car this should be all they need.

Waiting for the spin.

OASIS SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGE NUMBER: 21035
MESSAGE TITLE: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION INLINE FLUID FILTER ELIMINATED AND NO LONGER REQUIRED AFTER INTERNAL TRANSMISSION REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT.

APPLICABLE VEHICLES :
2009 - 2010 TRUCK : 00016 E-SERIES
2009 - 2010 TRUCK : 00134 EXPLORER 4DR
2009 - 2010 TRUCK : 00110 EXPLORER
2009 - 2010 TRUCK : 00029 F-SERIES LD
2009 - 2010 TRUCK : 00028 F-SERIES
2009 TRUCK : 00175 F-SERIES MOTORHOME/COMMERCIAL
2009 - 2010 TRUCK : 00070 MOUNTAINEER
2009 - 2010 CAR : 00071 MUSTANG
2009 - 2010 TRUCK : 00081 RANGER
2009 - 2010 CAR : 00094 TOWN CAR
2009 HEAVY TRUCK : 00168 LOW CAB FORWARD

OASIS MESSAGE :
2009-UP FORD/LINCOLN/MERCURY VEHICLES INSTALLATION OF INLINE TRANSMISSION FLUID
FILTER/KIT IS NO LONGER REQUIRED WITH TRANSMISSION OVERHAUL OR REMAN TRANS
ASSEMBLIES. ENGINEERING TESTS HAVE DETERMINED THE INLINE TRANSMISSION FLUID
FILTER IS INEFFECTIVE AND WILL NO LONGER BE INCLUDED WITH REMAN TRANSMISSION
ASSEMBLIES. THE INSTALLATION OF THIS FILTER HAS SHOWN TO INCREASE THE POTENTIAL
OF TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKS AT THE INLINE FILTER CLAMP CONNECTIONS AND
COMPROMISING THE INTEGRITY OF THE FLUID COOLER LINE AND THE INTERNAL INLINE
FILTER BYPASS HAS BEEN SHOWN TO BE INEFFECTIVE
. IF THE TRANSMISSION TURBO HEATED
COOLER LINE FLUSHER(OR EQUIVALENT)IS NOT UTILIZED, PLEASE FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDED
PROCEDURES IN THE APPROPRIATE VEHICLE WSM. FOLLOW SERVICE PROCEDURE IN SECTION
307-01 TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER BACKFLUSHING AND CLEANING.


APPLICABLE SYMPTOM CODES :
500000 DRIVELINE
504000 DRIVELINE OTHER AUTO TRANS CONCERNS
590000 DRIVELINE PUBLICATION REVISIONS/UPDATES
890000 PUBLICATION CHANGES
 
Wow- I'll pass for sure. I was toying with the idea of installing one on my Liberty, but was afraid of it leaking. Ford made the decision easy for me. It looks like the engineers were right with passing on this one. LOL
 
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