Torque Wrench Recommendation for Low Foot Lbs?

[jpa]

I have a ½ Tekton wrench that will give me 10 - 150 ft pounds of torque, but I need something for the more "delicate" torquing that my vehicle asks for. Specifically, the valve cover gasket bolts that call for 53 inch lbs (or 4.41 ft lbs).

Can't really find anything out there, but feel I'm not looking in the right spots?

Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Jon

 

[DeafBrad]

Hi, I don't have a specific recommendation for you, but look up inch lb torque wrenches. 1 ft lb = 12 inch lbs. The ft. lb torque wrenches are not as accurate on the lower end of their scale.

 

[TmanP]

There's not much out there. I'd look for a more expensive digital wrench, maybe. Yesterday I bought an "inch pound" wrench from O'Reilly but couldn't get it to work so I just guessed (89 in-lbs). The one I bought actually was, I think, a foot-pound one with different markings that went from 120-960? in-lbs so the measurements aren't too exact.

 

[jpa]

I wonder if something like this would do the trick? Amazon - Digital Torque Wrench

 

[DeafBrad]

If this helps any,`the inch lb torque wrenches would be 1/4" drive. I personally use Harbor Freight torque wrenches.

 

[Omahaug]

Harbor Freight Tools sells 1/4th, 3/8th and 1/2 inch drive click torque wrenches. They're usually 20.00 but go on sale for 10.00 a lot.

The 1/4th drive will do what you're looking for. I own all three drives (and multiples of each) and they work very well. I've not had one defective.

 

[jpa]

Bingo - ¼ is the way to go. Thanks guys.

 

[Trav]

For accuracy at that low torque level you need a 1/4" torque wrench. Keep in mind that unless you spend a lot of $$$ most are going to be accurate from about 20% of the max scale value, this means your Tekton is accurate from about 30 ft.lb anything below that is worthless so you might as well just hand tighten without it.
I like this style for low torque values, its pricey compared to the Tekton but not pricey at all for what it is. The memory needle is a great feature, accuracy for the 0-250 in.lb (20.8 ft.lb) will start at about 4 ft.lb (5.5nm), if you need to be accurate lower than that consider one that goes to 150 in.lb.

https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-751LDI...KP72AW&th=1

 

[Warstud]

Amazon has Tekton Torque Wrenches on Sale.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_3?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=tekton+torque+wrench&sprefix=tek%2Caps%2C200&crid=3PC098I97MSMO

 

[DeafBrad]

In my mind as far as torque wrenches go, they are good for peace of mind. I personally do not worry about super accuracy when working on my vehicles as the vehicles I have worked on or owned were somewhat forgiving when over-tightened. I used to worry about things falling off so I would way over-tighten stuff. I would not be surprised if I over-tightened by 50% or more.

Valve covers, oil pans, and things with aluminum thread do require extra care. The aluminum will strip, and the valve covers and oil pans can bend when over-tightened which can result in oil leaks.

 

[BigD1]

I like the indicating torque wrenches, but using one down in a engine bay can be hard to see the dial, so I would rather have a CDI 1/4 inch clicker type.

Unless it's mission critical, just stick with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet wrench for the small bolts like water pump, oil pan, and valve cover bolts that require low torque. I have two CDI clickers a 3/8 and 1/2. Really don't need the 1/4 inch CDI inch pound clicker because I just use a regular 1/4 ratchet for the small stuff. Half a grunt usually takes care of it!

 

[901Memphis]

Yep just look at the 1/4 inch wrenches, theyre usually the inch lb ones.

 

[redbone3]

Here is a good quality 1/4" drive, inch pound clicker type torque wrench on sale at Sears. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-cli...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[jpa]

I picked up one today from Harbor Freight. Made sure my fasteners were torqued down to the 52 inch lbs.

Thanks again for the quick feedback. Really is a great forum.

 

[andyd]

If there is a spring washer under the nut and you flatten the washer, thats tight enough. Anything 5/16 or 8mm gets tightened with 1/4 drive tools. Valve cover bolts don't require a torque wrench. "accuracy greater than the job requires is wasteful" Granted, its a learning process. More of an acquired "feel". Its starts with skinned knuckles and sheared bolts. Don't push, especially if you are a DIYer in new territory.

 

[spasm3]

Don't forget the beam style wrenches, they are not expensive and don't lose accuracy unless you drop it or do something dumb with it.

I use one for head and engine work.$16 for 0-75lbs $21 for a 0-150lbs

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-8-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00932999000P
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-1-2-in-dr-beam-style-torque-wrench/p-00903300000P


[img:center]http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_665490301?hei=546&wid=546&op_sharpen=1[/img]

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Don't forget the beam style wrenches, they are not expensive and don't lose accuracy unless you drop it or do something dumb with it.



I work in the aviation world. We've discovered that the click-type torque wrenches are inadequate for many tasks. Consider what happens to a connecting rod bolt on a Lycoming. It stretches to a specification. So, it's measured, specially lubricated, installed, measured again, torqued via a process and measured again.

The key is HOLDING THE TORQUE, while the nut slowly turns, and allowing the bolt to stretch. Many race car, and performance cylinder head studs are similar. They stretch considerably, often by the use of a fine threaded nut. This puts more clamping force on the head gasket and completely eliminates cyclic stud failure.

The beam type torque wrench is absolutely perfect for the task. Furthermore, they are easy to calibrate.

Sure, we use the dial type also, but the beam type really can't be beat for overall ease of use and proper application of torque. As the beam type clearly indicates more or less by the pointer direction. (the farther outboard, the more the torque)

Certain dial types can be difficult on LH threads.

 

[jpa]

andyd - that is really good advice. I'm a DIY'er and I've done intermediate stuff and valve cover gaskets would be in that range of skill. Agreed on the "feel" and I've had my share of skinned knuckles and grimy hands. No sheared bolts yet

.

I'm on the threshold of replacing my pcv value as I have 162 on the clock and I've never cleaned or changed it. Probably time. The deal w/ 4runners is they have this rubber grommet that likes to transform into plastic if you never change it - which I am guilty of.

Should any of the plastic pieces fall into the valve cover area (and not caught by the baffle), I'll be doing a vcg job. I hope to avoid that altogether and don't really have any leaks on the driver side. Mild mild leak on the passenger side, but I torqued that one down to Toyota's "spec", but honestly - a little nervous as I was not familiar with the "feel".

 

[jpa]

Cujet - I never considered that perspective of "holding the torque" and stretching the bolt.

My father rebuilt a SeaDoo engine using one of those dial torque wrenches.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Harbor Freight has good torque wrenches, and you can often get them for about $10