Top 3 oil filters under $6.00
- Thread starter Red Dog
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Yes, I would even take an OEM filter made by Honeywell built to OEM quality standards than one that is reverse engineered, built as cheaply as possible. [/QB][/QUOTE]
I'm not here to antagonize, please believe me. I just want your valued opinion. So, with that being said, you feel that it is okay to run a Motorcraft on a Ford product, but NEVER run it on a Chevy? Or an AC filter is okay on a Chevy, but never install it on a Ford? Or take an OEM Honda/Fram and put it on a Honda, but ever buy a Fram from Wal-Mart for your Honda?
My feeling is that an OEM filter has very little engineering from the auto manufacturers, but quite a lot from the company that actually builds it FOR the manufacturer, but that's just my opinion.
Also, in your comment "built as cheaply as possible", all the car manufacturers build their cars as cheaply as possible, no matter if it's an economy car or a luxury car. If they weren't worried about cost, they wouldn't have an assembly line, just like they didn't have one before Henry Ford invented one. But, that's my opinion, yours is welcome.
top 3 (from what i've gathered so far...)
1) PureOne (since oil can get really dirty, filtering should be first on the list, still has good flow. Decreases the chance of harmful wear due to particles flowing around in engine = very helpful during break-in period)
2) Wix/Napa Gold (very close to pureone, but with just a little better flow and design of bypass valve end)
3) Premium Plus (if can't find either p1 or wix/NG)
[ May 29, 2006, 05:35 PM: Message edited by: Highroller ]
1) PureOne (since oil can get really dirty, filtering should be first on the list, still has good flow. Decreases the chance of harmful wear due to particles flowing around in engine = very helpful during break-in period)
2) Wix/Napa Gold (very close to pureone, but with just a little better flow and design of bypass valve end)
3) Premium Plus (if can't find either p1 or wix/NG)
[ May 29, 2006, 05:35 PM: Message edited by: Highroller ]
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Inlet and outlet holes are not an issue. If you look at a Permacool sandwich adapter ..it has only ONE hole and typically handles the entire oil flow of the average engine when installed to mount a bypass filter. Small holes ..big holes ..doesn't really matter much for 99.9% of the engines out there. The oil just accellerates through the opening. It does create a pressure elevation upstream ..but typically only about 2PSI (for the Permacool relief port).
A bypass is rarely in use ..ever. If you can still find a clicker ST filter, cut it open and see how the spring interacts with the endcap and how easily the bottom endcap flexes. Most of the horror stories about clickers showed that the media had an appearance just like my PureOne had that was subjected to a coolant leak (to the tune of quarts per hundred miles). Hence, I strongly suspect that the media was subjected to severe insult and severely weakened. This isn't conclusive, by any means, but that's what my ponderings and experience in the matter strongly suggests.
The main reason that ST is $2.07 because of two reasons. One is WallMart. I know of no other outlet for ST filters. There are surely other Champs ..but they are sold either to the trade ..or are otherwise rebadged. The other is advertising. Do you see the Champ Lab ST Ecore NASCAR entry? The Champ commercials on TV during "TRUCKS" ..or "Whatstheirname Garage"?? How much would a Purolator PP and P1 cost if Purolator did ZERO advertising? The Ecore design is ahead of the curve compared to most others in design. It's not the finest filtering filter out there ..but it is an outstanding value for the price, imo.
That said, I think that most filters other then Fram are good under the $6 price cap. Fram is okay too ..but it's just not worth the price. If it was $2.06 ..I'd still buy the Ecore.
Where do you get that? From my measurements, the ST has more than twice the filter area of a Fram.
I have never understood how a clicker type bypass valve could possibly work either. It is good they seem to be moving away from them.
These Toyota OEM filters are Denso filters. Very good filters.
Buying a good filter does not always mean having more filter media. The media can be constructed of different materials. Also, bypass valve, casing, gaskets, etc.... have a lot to do with how dependable a filter is. Having a good bypass valve is important if you have extended OCI's. Supertech, I would never use for more than 3k, more than that you can just hold your breath. Just my $0.02, and I understand people will have there opinions as well.
Sorry, I don't agree. Regardless of how often a bypass is needed, I expect it to open at the correct time/pressure, and close and seal when not needed. I do not have a good feeling about any of these aspects with this style bypass valve. The only reason the clicker type bypass was used is because it is the cheapest thing to make, which is exactly my point and brings this back on topic. To each his own, but I would rather spend an extra $2-$4 for peace of mind.
How does a couple $12.99 Amsoil oil filters @ a
-50% +(plus!) an additional -20% = (effectively a -60% total discount) $5.20 each sound?
Thank you GI Joes!
Cheers!
p.s. these were the "old" Amsoil filters, not the "new" EA ("ea"?) line
-50% +(plus!) an additional -20% = (effectively a -60% total discount) $5.20 each sound?
Thank you GI Joes!
Cheers!
p.s. these were the "old" Amsoil filters, not the "new" EA ("ea"?) line
Ewetho wrote:
"FL-2005 is the same as FL-400 with an anti-drainback valve, used on Zetec Ford engines to prevent valvetrain noise at start-up."
Where did you get this info? I've been wondering for a long time if the 2005 was the same as the 400 (e.g., 'same' being 3/4-16 thread, approx 8-11 or so bypass pressure). If so, I'm stocking up at Wallyworld when they run out of the FL-400s
"FL-2005 is the same as FL-400 with an anti-drainback valve, used on Zetec Ford engines to prevent valvetrain noise at start-up."
Where did you get this info? I've been wondering for a long time if the 2005 was the same as the 400 (e.g., 'same' being 3/4-16 thread, approx 8-11 or so bypass pressure). If so, I'm stocking up at Wallyworld when they run out of the FL-400s
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Here's the difference in WIX (note the gaps/overlaps in applications
FL400S xref
Part Number: 51516
UPC Number: 765809515161
Principal Application: Ford/Mercury (81-06), Chrysler/Jeep (02-06), Mazda Trucks (94-05)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.828
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=14/31
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: 20
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226
FL2005 xref'd
Part Number: 51315
UPC Number: 765809513150
Principal Application: Ford (98-04), Mazda (01-04)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.704
Outer Diameter Top: 2.983
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 3/4-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 16
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 320
Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM
Nominal Micro Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.750 2.400 0.130
In Wix ..they both have ADBV
Gary:
Thanks; I should have thought of the Wix xref function. Since my car is spec'd for the 3614 (mini) filter (1995 Saab 900S), I've been using the bigger 400S or the Purolator 14670, sometimes even the FLIA.
I'm going to check the specs for the 3614-sized filter on the Wix board, just to check the bypass pressure specs.
Do you think there is any practical difference between 8-11 PSI versus 16, in the real world?
Thanks; I should have thought of the Wix xref function. Since my car is spec'd for the 3614 (mini) filter (1995 Saab 900S), I've been using the bigger 400S or the Purolator 14670, sometimes even the FLIA.
I'm going to check the specs for the 3614-sized filter on the Wix board, just to check the bypass pressure specs.
Do you think there is any practical difference between 8-11 PSI versus 16, in the real world?
I just came across this thread when trying to locate another thread.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002552
"Best filter for under $5"
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002552
"Best filter for under $5"
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Nope. Not in my opinion.
I used supertechs exclusively in a Mitsubishi Outlander and never had any issues with the filters. Back on topic.
1. I can get Wix for less than $6 at O'reilys down the street so it's number 1 and what I have begun using in my two new Toyota's. Good looking filter, sturdy, nice internal layout and good materials. The black paint is probably the best color for the engine bay as well.
2. I like the Denso Toyotas as well and noticed my original made in Japan models had silicon ADBV and from what I could see very nice media, interestingly they had O-rings intead of flat gaskets. It is only number two because it requires going to the dealer or mail order so it is inconvenient.
3. I like Purolater Pure ones, not only for the inside parts but that blue paint job is exquisite. Unfortunately Pepe boyz is farther away than the nearest dealer so it falls to #3
I think I will stick to Wix for a while.
1. I can get Wix for less than $6 at O'reilys down the street so it's number 1 and what I have begun using in my two new Toyota's. Good looking filter, sturdy, nice internal layout and good materials. The black paint is probably the best color for the engine bay as well.
2. I like the Denso Toyotas as well and noticed my original made in Japan models had silicon ADBV and from what I could see very nice media, interestingly they had O-rings intead of flat gaskets. It is only number two because it requires going to the dealer or mail order so it is inconvenient.
3. I like Purolater Pure ones, not only for the inside parts but that blue paint job is exquisite. Unfortunately Pepe boyz is farther away than the nearest dealer so it falls to #3
I think I will stick to Wix for a while.
I could not agree more with your filter choices. I also agree that you could theoretically stick any filter that would work on your car and never have any problems (IE..the supertech) but, you are taking more of a risk.
In order of preference:
Pure One
WIX or NAPA Gold
Motorcraft
I only use the first two, and buy a few of each for my 03 Ford Ranger and my wife's 03 Subaru Forester whenever I'm running low on my small stockpile and find them on sale.
Pure One
WIX or NAPA Gold
Motorcraft
I only use the first two, and buy a few of each for my 03 Ford Ranger and my wife's 03 Subaru Forester whenever I'm running low on my small stockpile and find them on sale.
Fram Orange Can
Fram Extended Guard
Fram Tough Guard
just kidding!!
Toyota V8 oil filter - uses the 3/4-16 threads
Purolator Prem Plus and its clones
Motorcraft, as good as Pure1 and cheeper!
Fram Extended Guard
Fram Tough Guard
just kidding!!
Toyota V8 oil filter - uses the 3/4-16 threads
Purolator Prem Plus and its clones
Motorcraft, as good as Pure1 and cheeper!
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