Took the plunge

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Even though 10W-40 is thicker than 10w30, both are cold-crank tested/rated down to -25C, which is air temperature, NOT 'air plus windchill factor'.

So, unless you sustained air temps below -25C, that 10W-40 will be fine all winter. If that's not the case, then how on earth did most folks get going in the winter 30 years ago when most people ran 10W-40, or even staight 20 weight in the winter?

I can understand wanting to go thinner in the winter, but there is way too much 'viscosity paranoia' on this site......
 
Originally Posted By: Petrou
honestly i have never seen an oil pump fail, in any vehicle
My coworker old 80's-something camry with less than 170K on it wore the oil Pump out running M1 exclusively. He was amzed and befuddled that the magic M1 wore his pump out! My '73 Ford LTD 429 interceptor just "stoopped' running as quick as if you shut the key off. Found it was a piece of hardened valve stem seal got jammed in the oil pump and sheared the roll pin on the distributor gear /cam drive. Failsafe mechanism! This wasnt and oil pump failure persay. the totella base stock is highly dewaxed with a low -40PP and a ccs in the 6000 range at -25. NO PROBLEM. Colder it is, the smaller those pistons are at start! Dont worry I'll have some high iron wear M1AFE in there for January 2010.
 
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I have to say, it seems to run very well on the PP. There is definitely more low-end and off the line torque than before. If I'm not careful, I can actually squeal tires from pulling out of a stoplight/sign (Couldn't do that before). The awful cold start noises have abated now too. woohoo! I attribute both of these to the oil being a good deal thinner than the previous 10W-40 maxlife was.
 
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