Tires always wearing on outside edge

Doing alignments yourself isn't an option if you want proper tire wear. If you want your tires to wear properly, you have to pay for an alignment.
I've never done a full alignment myself but have set the toe in on multiple cars after replacing ball joint/tie rod ends and usually the car handles better, holds a true line on the road, and tires wear better than most alignments I've paid for. When I replaced the tires on my '02 Escort about a year ago I reset the toe in then recently after changing the tie rods/ball joints I reset it and the tires are wearing perfectly. I've got and use a tread depth gauge and the tread depth is equal across the tire tread.
 
Here's the thing. You admit to hard cornering, NP, but that will cause outside edge tire wear. Then you had your front end alignment done, but kept the worn tires, right?
A good alignment will not correct tire wear that is already present. Those tires will continue to wear, hopefully evenly, from that point forward. But it won't correct the tire wear already visible.
 
Tall and lean vehicles could contribute to outer edge when cornering . Example , our Honda Fit .
 
Somewhat normal. This happens on the Prius vehicles as well even when the tires are well overinflated.

Exactly this is the new normal

Volt 100% in spec wears the outside edges of all 4 tire positions faster than the inner edge and also does not wear down the center as quickly as either edge

Inflation doesn’t seem to effect the phenomenon

I was told if you can find a decent old school alignment shop that will set the alignment out of spec to as close to straight and zero toe as possible you can reduce this issue but car will wander more and have quicker steering response.
 
There is “in spec”, and there is in spec. There is normally quite a range in factory specs. Sounds like you need to reduce the amount of toe in, setting it closer to the zero end of the range. Physically impossible to get a good alignment with string. When I do alignments, the machine gives me a very narrow range (1/10th of full factory range) to use, based on the ride height of each corner. Turning a tie rod only one wrench flat will go from too far toed out to too far toed in (only a 4 minute difference), you can’t get that accuracy with string. Plus, I only work on one brand, so I know when to use factory specs, and when to go outside those specs to prevent unusual tire wear, which happens on many models. The new G01 X3 will destroy the outside of the front tires if you set it exactly to factory spec.

Do you have a print out of the last alignment?
 
Last edited:
I did ask about a print out before. No answer likely equals to no interest in help. I
have to disagree on the string method. I can guarantee you performing alignment
with strings as precisely as with the latest equipment is possible, however it's little
more time consuming. It's the user it depends on. Did it hundreds of times at the
track so far. That being said we're using laser gauges today, Longacre and others,
but I wouldn't mind going back to string if I needed to.
 
I must now reveal that I lied about everything being in spec. The rear right toe was out of spec such a tiny amount that I didn't think I needed to mention it.

I replaced all four tires 7,000 miles before getting this most recent alignment. I got this most recent alignment because the new tires began wearing on the outside edges again. The front tires have always worn on the outside edges more than the rest of the tire. The rear tires either wear on the outside edges less severely than the front tires, or the rear tires may wear fairly evenly. I'm not sure.

My tires:
Hankook Kinergy ST, rated for 70k miles
185/60R15 84T
I've always kept all four tires at the Toyota recommended 32psi. At my last alignment the mechanic recommended 35psi, and others have recommended higher psi to remedy the outside edge wear problem. So I have all four at 35psi now.
 

Attachments

  • CCF06172021_0001.pdf
    324.2 KB · Views: 19
I must now reveal that I lied about everything being in spec. The rear right toe was out of spec such a tiny amount that I didn't think I needed to mention it.

Rear toe isn't worth losing sleep over it as long as your steering wheel is straight. Total toe is what matters and that's in spec. Rear toe probably isn't adjustable anyway.


I got this most recent alignment because the new tires began wearing on the outside edges again. The front tires have always worn on the outside edges more than the rest of the tire.

For your driving style you need more camber and performance tires. Or a different car.


Hankook Kinergy ST, rated for 70k miles
185/60R15 84T

Guess you'll know these aren't the most performance-oriented tires on earth.


I've always kept all four tires at the Toyota recommended 32psi. At my last alignment the mechanic recommended 35psi, and others have recommended higher psi to remedy the outside edge wear problem. So I have all four at 35psi now.

Higher pressure will certainly help with wear but not with traction.
 
Yes, I hear you, but it doesn't seem severe enough to notice and that's why I said as long as the steering wheel is straight. We both know that rear total toe has the same effect on steering wheel straightness as front toe. I just say this to be clear for other readers. That said, he was asking if this not so ideal rear toe would affect outer edge wear, at least that's how I understand this discussion. That's not the case, since total toe (as well as insufficient camber) is responsible for this issue. And weak sidewalls and his driving style and.....

Let's face it, he should live with this, maybe he should rethink his driving style and he should start saving for a better car. It doesn't make any sense spending money just to marginally improve this one. I'd suggest getting a Miata or a Mini or a GTI.
 
Both outer edges wearing faster than the middle, when the tires undoubtedly spend most of their time in a straight line - to me this can only be from the tire not having enough support in the middle. If it's not underinflated, the sidewalls just aren't stiff enough. My old Taurus does this on the cheap house brand tires on it now if I don't run over 40 psi.

My wife's '16 Town and Country did the same thing with some Coopers. I believe tires just aren't as supportive as they used to be.
 
Back
Top