Tires always wearing on outside edge

Doing alignments yourself isn't an option if you want proper tire wear. If you want your tires to wear properly, you have to pay for an alignment.
I've never done a full alignment myself but have set the toe in on multiple cars after replacing ball joint/tie rod ends and usually the car handles better, holds a true line on the road, and tires wear better than most alignments I've paid for. When I replaced the tires on my '02 Escort about a year ago I reset the toe in then recently after changing the tie rods/ball joints I reset it and the tires are wearing perfectly. I've got and use a tread depth gauge and the tread depth is equal across the tire tread.
Daytona Beach
Here's the thing. You admit to hard cornering, NP, but that will cause outside edge tire wear. Then you had your front end alignment done, but kept the worn tires, right?
A good alignment will not correct tire wear that is already present. Those tires will continue to wear, hopefully evenly, from that point forward. But it won't correct the tire wear already visible.
Somewhat normal. This happens on the Prius vehicles as well even when the tires are well overinflated.

Exactly this is the new normal

Volt 100% in spec wears the outside edges of all 4 tire positions faster than the inner edge and also does not wear down the center as quickly as either edge

Inflation doesn’t seem to effect the phenomenon

I was told if you can find a decent old school alignment shop that will set the alignment out of spec to as close to straight and zero toe as possible you can reduce this issue but car will wander more and have quicker steering response.
Ontario, Canada
There is “in spec”, and there is in spec. There is normally quite a range in factory specs. Sounds like you need to reduce the amount of toe in, setting it closer to the zero end of the range. Physically impossible to get a good alignment with string. When I do alignments, the machine gives me a very narrow range (1/10th of full factory range) to use, based on the ride height of each corner. Turning a tie rod only one wrench flat will go from too far toed out to too far toed in (only a 4 minute difference), you can’t get that accuracy with string. Plus, I only work on one brand, so I know when to use factory specs, and when to go outside those specs to prevent unusual tire wear, which happens on many models. The new G01 X3 will destroy the outside of the front tires if you set it exactly to factory spec.

Do you have a print out of the last alignment?
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open range
I did ask about a print out before. No answer likely equals to no interest in help. I
have to disagree on the string method. I can guarantee you performing alignment
with strings as precisely as with the latest equipment is possible, however it's little
more time consuming. It's the user it depends on. Did it hundreds of times at the
track so far. That being said we're using laser gauges today, Longacre and others,
but I wouldn't mind going back to string if I needed to.