Tire Pressure and Alignment

From the article you linked. It might be useful to read the entire article that you're referencing.:

Adjustments
The Camry has very few factory adjustments outside of the toe angle. Installing aftermarket cam bolts on the struts can give some adjustability, but they are not substitutes for worn bushings or broken springs.

Adjustment of front camber requires the use of cam bolts. The bolts allow both positive and negative camber changes up to approximately 1.75º. The bolts require .4 hours of labor to install per side. Front caster is non-adjustable.

Adjustment of rear camber requires the use of cam bolts. The bolts allow both positive and negative camber changes up to approximately 1.75º. The bolts require .4 hours of labor to install per side.
I did and it says, Installing aftermarket cam bolts. If that was needed, you have bent suspension components or a bent frame. Not within the scope of a normal alignment.
 

Sometimes you can get a fair amount by shifting subframes or just loosening struts, moving and tightening again... sometimes not...
Ive experienced this with an accord which was a little off. Techs have limited patience when making adjustments tapping the cradle around. It’s imprecise guesswork, difficult to dial in. The issue only revealed with higher performance tires.
 
I like to sit in the driver's seat during the alignment.
Many years ago, between 1957 and 1960, Road & Track published an article suggesting adding some weight to the driver's area when doing an alignment.
 
Many years ago, between 1957 and 1960, Road & Track published an article suggesting adding some weight to the driver's area when doing an alignment.
Weighted alignment makes a lot of sense if the vehicle is consistently weighted, as is the case with a race or track car without passengers or cargo. With a daily driver I have the alignment done with the usual cargo in the trunk and with either myself or with an equivalent mass in the driver's seat. The extra effort is minimal, so why not do it? Camber, especially rear camber is what gets mostly affected by weight.
 
Many manufacturers' alignment instructions require a specific tank fill, weight on driver's seat and in the trunk. E.g. BMW still says so. In general, just align it like it's driven most of the time.
 
From the factory, there are no such adjustments for that vehicle. It is toe only.

That doesn't mean it's sufficient to measure toe only. With some additional data (camber, caster, SAI, included angle, frame angle) it's easier or even possible to access flaws on a vehicle's suspension or certain phemomena.

Shel, you can do almost anything of this with a set of strings. Advanced equipment makes work easier and sometimes quicker, but not neccessarily more precise. Knowledge makes a proper alignment foremost.
 
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