Tire Pressure and Alignment

Shel_B

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After installing new struts, I've decided that the Camry will need an alignment. My question concerns tire pressure when doing an alignment. I run two different pressures: lower pressure when driving around town (which is most of the time) due, in part, to the terrible conditions of the local streets, and higher pressure when making long highway trips at higher speeds.

Is it best to adjust tire pressure to what the car will be running prior to alignment, and, if so, should I use the lower or higher pressure.
 
I doubt most shops even check let alone adjust tire pressure before an alignment unless it's visibly low. If they did, it would be to whatever it says on the sticker in the door jamb. If the car doesn't wander or pull to one side and the steering wheel is straight, why do you want an alignment? And didn't the shop do one after replacing the struts?
 
After installing new struts, I've decided that the Camry will need an alignment. My question concerns tire pressure when doing an alignment. I run two different pressures: lower pressure when driving around town (which is most of the time) due, in part, to the terrible conditions of the local streets, and higher pressure when making long highway trips at higher speeds.

Is it best to adjust tire pressure to what the car will be running prior to alignment, and, if so, should I use the lower or higher pressure.
the algnment is measured on the rim, not the tyre. Unless the tyre pressure alters the ride height on one axle it's not important
 
I doubt most shops even check let alone adjust tire pressure before an alignment unless it's visibly low. If they did, it would be to whatever it says on the sticker in the door jamb. If the car doesn't wander or pull to one side and the steering wheel is straight, why do you want an alignment? And didn't the shop do one after replacing the struts?

New struts can change the ride height, and that always changes toe. He could be running excessive toe whiule the car tracks straight, resulting in extra understeer and tyre wear.
 
I doubt most shops even check let alone adjust tire pressure before an alignment unless it's visibly low. If they did, it would be to whatever it says on the sticker in the door jamb. If the car doesn't wander or pull to one side and the steering wheel is straight, why do you want an alignment? And didn't the shop do one after replacing the struts?
Lyle didn't do a 4-wheel alignment. His shop doesn't have the best equipment for that. He told me to drive the car a bit, which I did (on a 700-mile highway trip) and get an alignment if I felt it necessary. After the trip, I felt I wanted the alignment. I've got a guy who has the latest Hunter alignment equipment, and I'll use him to do the final alignment.
 
Is that car just has a toe adjustment, a simple string or measuring tape will align it as good as fancy equipment.
We're long past the era of string and measuring tape. The Camry requires a 4-wheel alignment including camber, caster, and toe and thrust angle adjustments
 
After installing new struts, I've decided that the Camry will need an alignment. My question concerns tire pressure when doing an alignment. I run two different pressures: lower pressure when driving around town (which is most of the time) due, in part, to the terrible conditions of the local streets, and higher pressure when making long highway trips at higher speeds.

Is it best to adjust tire pressure to what the car will be running prior to alignment, and, if so, should I use the lower or higher pressure.
Fill the gas tank. Set the tire pressure to specs, get the alignment and leave the pressure alone. No need to adjust the pressure for city or highway driving. I never heard anyone doing that.
 
We're long past the era of string and measuring tape. The Camry requires a 4-wheel alignment including camber, caster, and toe and thrust angle adjustments
From the factory, there are no such adjustments for that vehicle. It is toe only.
 
No need to adjust the pressure for city or highway driving. I never heard anyone doing that.
Higher inflation = less rolling resistance = better gas mileage. I'll do that on a long highway drive, then drop the pressure back to normal when I return so the in town beat up roads don't give a bone jarring ride.
 
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Higher inflation = less rolling resistance = better gas mileage. I'll do that on a long highway drive, then drop the pressure back to normal when I return so the in town beat up roads don't give a bone jarring ride.
Bingo!
 
According to this https://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/toyota-camry-alignment-specs/ only the toe is adjusted and steering angle reset.
From the article you linked. It might be useful to read the entire article that you're referencing.:

Adjustments
The Camry has very few factory adjustments outside of the toe angle. Installing aftermarket cam bolts on the struts can give some adjustability, but they are not substitutes for worn bushings or broken springs.

Adjustment of front camber requires the use of cam bolts. The bolts allow both positive and negative camber changes up to approximately 1.75º. The bolts require .4 hours of labor to install per side. Front caster is non-adjustable.

Adjustment of rear camber requires the use of cam bolts. The bolts allow both positive and negative camber changes up to approximately 1.75º. The bolts require .4 hours of labor to install per side.
 
From the article you linked. It might be useful to read the entire article that you're referencing.:

Adjustments
The Camry has very few factory adjustments outside of the toe angle. Installing aftermarket cam bolts on the struts can give some adjustability, but they are not substitutes for worn bushings or broken springs.

Adjustment of front camber requires the use of cam bolts. The bolts allow both positive and negative camber changes up to approximately 1.75º. The bolts require .4 hours of labor to install per side. Front caster is non-adjustable.

Adjustment of rear camber requires the use of cam bolts. The bolts allow both positive and negative camber changes up to approximately 1.75º. The bolts require .4 hours of labor to install per side.
None of those adjustment options are factory.
 
I would set the tire pressure to the factory placard using a quality gauge.

Just because something isn't adjustable from the factory does not mean there are not ways of correcting it, I wouldn't however expect that in the normal course of business.. I've done it though.

If paying for a 4 wheel alignment with only toe adjustments available I'd expect a near perfect thrust angle and adjustments to the preferred toe. If the words "it is in spec" cross the guys lips he's lazy.
 
Thanks for all the comments and input. I've certainly learned a few things. Time for lunch.
 
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