Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You mean one more camshaft.
It shouldn't make a difference.
Why should a larger amount of cams, lifter, rod journals, etc NOT make a difference??? Assuming equal clearances, the engine with additional components will require additional oil flow to maintain the same pressure...
Just spitballing here.
K. When it was a singe cam the oil had to get sprayed there anyways,why does the extra cam make any difference. The oil still had to go there regardless.
K. op.
I really like this idea and was considering doing it myself with my 4V mod motor. I like the idea of more volume and thinner oil. Its a double plus. Thinner oil transfers heat better therefore cooling metal parts faster and more volume again cools parts faster.
Here's where mine gets tricky. The 4v has an internal by-pass,and the oil galleys create the restriction. So in order to take advantage of the volume I would have to grind the oil passages bigger,otherwise it increases oil pressure which increases drag which could break the gear on the pump.
So ideally I would have to keep the oil pressure consistent with stock so drag doesn't increase,and it would have to be trial and error as in grind some material out,start the engine,monitor pressure etc.
So I just mounted an old 4 cylinder engines radiator in front of the car,screwed on the adaptor plate and ran the oil lines in.
The rad cap is the problem. I've gotta make it not pop at 16 pounds.
I suggest a real oil temp gauge and a real oil pressure gauge so you can monitor those 2 points.
Going to a thinner oil requires some forethought so no damage comes of it. As long as oil temps don't get high enough to compromise film strength I see no problem going with thinner oil at all.
I understand the thicker oil when racing because oil temps elevate making the oil thinner and potentially breaking the oil film however if temp can be controlled and kept at,for example 220 degrees that keeps the oil in its ideal operation range and minimizes drag,maximizing power to the wheels.
Caterham has a great theory in this respect. He makes some very valid points.
Like drag racing. It only makes sense to run the thinnest oil possible. The engine runs for a minute including driving back to the pits.
Keeping the engine cool minimizes heatsoak which leads to cooler air being sucked in.
In that example an oil with the highest viscosity index possible is ideal. Less parasitic loss from oil pumping,its already near operational viscosity.
I will be putting my money where my mouth is. I'm going to see if my track times differ between a 20 grade(tgmo) and a 40 grade M1 0w-40.
Keep us updated on your progress.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You mean one more camshaft.
It shouldn't make a difference.
Why should a larger amount of cams, lifter, rod journals, etc NOT make a difference??? Assuming equal clearances, the engine with additional components will require additional oil flow to maintain the same pressure...
Just spitballing here.
K. When it was a singe cam the oil had to get sprayed there anyways,why does the extra cam make any difference. The oil still had to go there regardless.
K. op.
I really like this idea and was considering doing it myself with my 4V mod motor. I like the idea of more volume and thinner oil. Its a double plus. Thinner oil transfers heat better therefore cooling metal parts faster and more volume again cools parts faster.
Here's where mine gets tricky. The 4v has an internal by-pass,and the oil galleys create the restriction. So in order to take advantage of the volume I would have to grind the oil passages bigger,otherwise it increases oil pressure which increases drag which could break the gear on the pump.
So ideally I would have to keep the oil pressure consistent with stock so drag doesn't increase,and it would have to be trial and error as in grind some material out,start the engine,monitor pressure etc.
So I just mounted an old 4 cylinder engines radiator in front of the car,screwed on the adaptor plate and ran the oil lines in.
The rad cap is the problem. I've gotta make it not pop at 16 pounds.
I suggest a real oil temp gauge and a real oil pressure gauge so you can monitor those 2 points.
Going to a thinner oil requires some forethought so no damage comes of it. As long as oil temps don't get high enough to compromise film strength I see no problem going with thinner oil at all.
I understand the thicker oil when racing because oil temps elevate making the oil thinner and potentially breaking the oil film however if temp can be controlled and kept at,for example 220 degrees that keeps the oil in its ideal operation range and minimizes drag,maximizing power to the wheels.
Caterham has a great theory in this respect. He makes some very valid points.
Like drag racing. It only makes sense to run the thinnest oil possible. The engine runs for a minute including driving back to the pits.
Keeping the engine cool minimizes heatsoak which leads to cooler air being sucked in.
In that example an oil with the highest viscosity index possible is ideal. Less parasitic loss from oil pumping,its already near operational viscosity.
I will be putting my money where my mouth is. I'm going to see if my track times differ between a 20 grade(tgmo) and a 40 grade M1 0w-40.
Keep us updated on your progress.
