You sure it's not just your injector's or even fuel pump? I know on my car they are both very loud ticking sounds.
Ticking Subaru / Oil Option?
- Thread starter Kira
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Almost every older Subie I've know has valvetrain noise; it's normal. Piston slap is also pretty common. With that being said, my '97 EJ25 liked Subaru OEM filters and XW-30 best.
+1.
My wife's '99 Outback sounds like a diesel, especially when cold. 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 5W40, conventional, synth, or blend made no difference in the noise.
The tech at my dealer said they actually came out with a different size piston for some of the late 90's/early '00 models. He swapped them in his (or his sisters)'00 Outback.
-Dennis
Almost every older Subie I've know has valvetrain noise; it's normal. Piston slap is also pretty common. With that being said, my '97 EJ25 liked Subaru OEM filters and XW-30 best.
+1.
My wife's '99 Outback sounds like a diesel, especially when cold. 5W30, 10W30, 10W40, 5W40, conventional, synth, or blend made no difference in the noise.
The tech at my dealer said they actually came out with a different size piston for some of the late 90's/early '00 models. He swapped them in his (or his sisters)'00 Outback.
-Dennis
Hello, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ALL, Great replies. Alas, it'll be several days before I can get my hands on this car. I feel I'm well informed now. Step 1 will be change the oil to 5-30 while there's still some Summer left. Step 2 will be to replace 1 qt. with MMO. Step 3 will be addressing the question of valve lash adjustment when we do the T-belt. Step 4 will be taking it to a dealership I know and have them listen to and access the noise. Step 5 will be, most likely, living with it. Because I'm new to BITOG and don't have all the lingo: what's GC, fdcg27? I've learned PYB is Penzoil Yellow Bottle, no? Kira
PYB = Pennzoil Yellow Bottle.
Don't forget about trying a new filter... Not OEM which appears to be a FRAM. Go with a Napa Gold, Wix or Purolator.
Don't forget about trying a new filter... Not OEM which appears to be a FRAM. Go with a Napa Gold, Wix or Purolator.
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ALL, Great replies. Alas, it'll be several days before I can get my hands on this car. I feel I'm well informed now. Step 1 will be change the oil to 5-30 while there's still some Summer left. Step 2 will be to replace 1 qt. with MMO. Step 3 will be addressing the question of valve lash adjustment when we do the T-belt. Step 4 will be taking it to a dealership I know and have them listen to and access the noise. Step 5 will be, most likely, living with it. Because I'm new to BITOG and don't have all the lingo: what's GC, fdcg27? I've learned PYB is Penzoil Yellow Bottle, no? Kira
GC = German-made Castrol 0W-30 (sometimes available at Autozone)
Hello, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ALL, Great replies. Alas, it'll be several days before I can get my hands on this car. I feel I'm well informed now. Step 1 will be change the oil to 5-30 while there's still some Summer left. Step 2 will be to replace 1 qt. with MMO. Step 3 will be addressing the question of valve lash adjustment when we do the T-belt. Step 4 will be taking it to a dealership I know and have them listen to and access the noise. Step 5 will be, most likely, living with it. Because I'm new to BITOG and don't have all the lingo: what's GC, fdcg27? I've learned PYB is Penzoil Yellow Bottle, no? Kira
GC = German-made Castrol 0W-30 (sometimes available at Autozone)
Hello, How funny (coincidental) that is. We have two turbos in the family, both Saab 9-5s, 4 cyl., LPTs. I've been successful buying all the GC 0W-30 from the Hackensack to the Champlain Valleys.
It contains the ACEA A3,B3 additive level which I read was high temperature turbo bearing lube. That stuff is KING. The '99 Saab was good for a morning belch of blue smoke around twice a month-NO MORE. The other Saab never smoked-and I'm going to keep it that way. A neighbor has an Audi A4 turbo which smoked heavily every day upon startup. I talked him into switching and I swear to you the smoke is down a perceived 95%.
There's a bonus. GC (see, you've got me saying it) would go on sale with the other Castrol products and include a filter; never a WIX or Hastings but hey, all the other cars got taken care of. An R&S Strauss store near me cleared out their stock of GC @ $3/qt. because the packaging was changed. They still stock the stuff. Kira
It contains the ACEA A3,B3 additive level which I read was high temperature turbo bearing lube. That stuff is KING. The '99 Saab was good for a morning belch of blue smoke around twice a month-NO MORE. The other Saab never smoked-and I'm going to keep it that way. A neighbor has an Audi A4 turbo which smoked heavily every day upon startup. I talked him into switching and I swear to you the smoke is down a perceived 95%.
There's a bonus. GC (see, you've got me saying it) would go on sale with the other Castrol products and include a filter; never a WIX or Hastings but hey, all the other cars got taken care of. An R&S Strauss store near me cleared out their stock of GC @ $3/qt. because the packaging was changed. They still stock the stuff. Kira
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ALL, Great replies. Alas, it'll be several days before I can get my hands on this car. I feel I'm well informed now. Step 1 will be change the oil to 5-30 while there's still some Summer left. Step 2 will be to replace 1 qt. with MMO. Step 3 will be addressing the question of valve lash adjustment when we do the T-belt. Step 4 will be taking it to a dealership I know and have them listen to and access the noise. Step 5 will be, most likely, living with it. Because I'm new to BITOG and don't have all the lingo: what's GC, fdcg27? I've learned PYB is Penzoil Yellow Bottle, no? Kira
I cannot recommend the MMO. Subies dont take kindly to very low viscosity oil. Unless you run it for a day or 2 just before an OC and no more than a cup.
Hello, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ALL, Great replies. Alas, it'll be several days before I can get my hands on this car. I feel I'm well informed now. Step 1 will be change the oil to 5-30 while there's still some Summer left. Step 2 will be to replace 1 qt. with MMO. Step 3 will be addressing the question of valve lash adjustment when we do the T-belt. Step 4 will be taking it to a dealership I know and have them listen to and access the noise. Step 5 will be, most likely, living with it. Because I'm new to BITOG and don't have all the lingo: what's GC, fdcg27? I've learned PYB is Penzoil Yellow Bottle, no? Kira
I cannot recommend the MMO. Subies dont take kindly to very low viscosity oil. Unless you run it for a day or 2 just before an OC and no more than a cup.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
I cannot recommend the MMO. Subies dont take kindly to very low viscosity oil. Unless you run it for a day or 2 just before an OC and no more than a cup.
That's just not true for the non-turbo Subaru engine being discussed in the original post. For a WRX, I'd probably not run MMO in very high concentrations.
Best,
I cannot recommend the MMO. Subies dont take kindly to very low viscosity oil. Unless you run it for a day or 2 just before an OC and no more than a cup.
That's just not true for the non-turbo Subaru engine being discussed in the original post. For a WRX, I'd probably not run MMO in very high concentrations.
Best,
Good point Familyguy- When in doubt contact Rich Kelly over at Turtle Wax and ask.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
PYB = Pennzoil Yellow Bottle.
Don't forget about trying a new filter... Not OEM which appears to be a FRAM. Go with a Napa Gold, Wix or Purolator.
Tokyo Roki (if you can still get them), OEM or Purolator. Nothing wrong with the OEM filter. It's well made and has the correct bypass spec. In fact I have one on my car right now. However, if I had to choose one filter out of *all* the filters I have ever had the pleasure of cutting open, it's the Tokyo Roki. That has got to be the best, and most consistently, made filter I've ever seen.
I wouldn't use a wix/napa on the subaru. Bypass spec is much too low, assuming you care about that stuff
PYB = Pennzoil Yellow Bottle.
Don't forget about trying a new filter... Not OEM which appears to be a FRAM. Go with a Napa Gold, Wix or Purolator.
Tokyo Roki (if you can still get them), OEM or Purolator. Nothing wrong with the OEM filter. It's well made and has the correct bypass spec. In fact I have one on my car right now. However, if I had to choose one filter out of *all* the filters I have ever had the pleasure of cutting open, it's the Tokyo Roki. That has got to be the best, and most consistently, made filter I've ever seen.
I wouldn't use a wix/napa on the subaru. Bypass spec is much too low, assuming you care about that stuff
Hello, Tokyo Roki is another term/name/abbreviation I've only just seen since reading BITOG. I'll Google/Wiki the name later. What's funny about an "OEM" oil filter for a pre 2005 Subaru is that Subaru superceded it's old filter design. A smaller filter was designed to provide clearance necessitated by the turbo engines' hot exhaust pipes. Justin (the guy in Seattle who has the "All Wheel Drive dot com" website to promote his business) says Subaru only lists that one small oil filter now. Too bad, everyone likes a larger filter. Kira
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hello, Tokyo Roki is another term/name/abbreviation I've only just seen since reading BITOG. I'll Google/Wiki the name later. What's funny about an "OEM" oil filter for a pre 2005 Subaru is that Subaru superceded it's old filter design. A smaller filter was designed to provide clearance necessitated by the turbo engines' hot exhaust pipes. Justin (the guy in Seattle who has the "All Wheel Drive dot com" website to promote his business) says Subaru only lists that one small oil filter now. Too bad, everyone likes a larger filter. Kira
Not me. I like the small ones, especially after opening a bunch of them up, including the corresponding next size up filter. I found filter media was the same or more in the smaller can due to the increased number of pleats. More pleats per area also increased the rigidity/strength of the media IMHO, which is good with a car that specs a bypass of 21 psi. More media, smaller can, less warping of the media, strong little buggers. I especially like the Purolator and Tokyo Roki. I just pulled and cut open a tokyo roki with 6k, half of which were hard trailer towing miles with a full family load, the filter was just perfect. Not a wave, not a bend, in the media, nothing. Just perfect. Could probably have left it on for another 6k easily.
Hello, Tokyo Roki is another term/name/abbreviation I've only just seen since reading BITOG. I'll Google/Wiki the name later. What's funny about an "OEM" oil filter for a pre 2005 Subaru is that Subaru superceded it's old filter design. A smaller filter was designed to provide clearance necessitated by the turbo engines' hot exhaust pipes. Justin (the guy in Seattle who has the "All Wheel Drive dot com" website to promote his business) says Subaru only lists that one small oil filter now. Too bad, everyone likes a larger filter. Kira
Not me. I like the small ones, especially after opening a bunch of them up, including the corresponding next size up filter. I found filter media was the same or more in the smaller can due to the increased number of pleats. More pleats per area also increased the rigidity/strength of the media IMHO, which is good with a car that specs a bypass of 21 psi. More media, smaller can, less warping of the media, strong little buggers. I especially like the Purolator and Tokyo Roki. I just pulled and cut open a tokyo roki with 6k, half of which were hard trailer towing miles with a full family load, the filter was just perfect. Not a wave, not a bend, in the media, nothing. Just perfect. Could probably have left it on for another 6k easily.
My 3 local subie dealers aint got no tokyo roki's. Is not this subarus unit a Mitsu and/or Honda baseplate /thread? Do mitsu OEM sell tokyo roki? All my locale mitsu dealers are gone save one far far away ...
The Nissan Qr25DE filter (Altima 4cyl) will fit the subie mounting and is a tad longer. Now Who makes Nissan filters?
Hello, Point taken regarding "strong" little filters. I went to Tokyo Rico's site and it seemed like you'd have to have an industrial account with them in order to get your hands on one. There was no "click here to buy" button. I visited 5 of the sites which came up with the Google search and nowhere was there a lookup or order form. That's OK since the PERFECT filter is not what I seek. I have my course of action for the ticking Subaru. Kira
With three Subaru's in the household at over 100k miles each (my Forester is actually at 99k) I've never had a problem with the Honeywell filters and have used them from day one. The Tokyo Roki was very well constructed, which oil filter cutter openers love, but it did not meet Subaru's bypass spec.
-Dennis
-Dennis
Last edited:
Sold my 2000 Forester running great at 127,300 miles. Running standard Pennzoil YB and Mobil 5000 and a pureOne oil filter. OCI was 6,000 miles. I would not runn MMO in it as others have stated. If the valve tick is uniform- forget it.
My '05 Impreza (EJ253) has a ticking noise that I can hear in the passenger cabin when it is fully warmed and the vent is off. It seems to be loudest near cylinder number two.
So far, oil filter choice does not seem to affect the noise. I have used the following filters on this car:
OEM black Toyko Roki
Blue Honeywell made filter
White "Subaru Canada Six-Star" honeywell filter
Purolator PL14612
Purolator PL14610 (oversized)
Purolator Classic L14460
Quaker State QS14612 (made by Purolator).
Note that this was mostly with different filter/oil combo's so take it with a big grain of salt. (I did do at least one mid-interval filter swap but I'll have to refer my service notes for specifics.)
Oil choice on the other hand does seem to affect the noise. I was surprised by this as all of the oils I have used have all been 5w-30's. So far Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30 seems to be one of the quieter oils. I'm wondering if it's because Syntec Blend seems to be one of the thicker 5w-30's (11.0 cst@100C whereas most are around the 10.5cst mark.) I was thinking of trying GTX High Mileage 5w-30 next as it's even thicker (12.0 cst@100C).
Anyways, that's been my experience so far trying to quiet the machine down. YMMV.
webfors: Where can you still get the black Tokyo Roki filters?
David
2005 Impreza RS
(71000km, mostly city stop and go. Avg speed to/from work: 35km/h.)
So far, oil filter choice does not seem to affect the noise. I have used the following filters on this car:
OEM black Toyko Roki
Blue Honeywell made filter
White "Subaru Canada Six-Star" honeywell filter
Purolator PL14612
Purolator PL14610 (oversized)
Purolator Classic L14460
Quaker State QS14612 (made by Purolator).
Note that this was mostly with different filter/oil combo's so take it with a big grain of salt. (I did do at least one mid-interval filter swap but I'll have to refer my service notes for specifics.)
Oil choice on the other hand does seem to affect the noise. I was surprised by this as all of the oils I have used have all been 5w-30's. So far Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30 seems to be one of the quieter oils. I'm wondering if it's because Syntec Blend seems to be one of the thicker 5w-30's (11.0 cst@100C whereas most are around the 10.5cst mark.) I was thinking of trying GTX High Mileage 5w-30 next as it's even thicker (12.0 cst@100C).
Anyways, that's been my experience so far trying to quiet the machine down. YMMV.
webfors: Where can you still get the black Tokyo Roki filters?
David
2005 Impreza RS
(71000km, mostly city stop and go. Avg speed to/from work: 35km/h.)
Originally Posted By: dk1604
My '05 Impreza (EJ253) has a ticking noise that I can hear in the passenger cabin when it is fully warmed and the vent is off. It seems to be loudest near cylinder number two.
So far, oil filter choice does not seem to affect the noise. I have used the following filters on this car:
OEM black Toyko Roki
Blue Honeywell made filter
White "Subaru Canada Six-Star" honeywell filter
Purolator PL14612
Purolator PL14610 (oversized)
Purolator Classic L14460
Quaker State QS14612 (made by Purolator).
Note that this was mostly with different filter/oil combo's so take it with a big grain of salt. (I did do at least one mid-interval filter swap but I'll have to refer my service notes for specifics.)
Oil choice on the other hand does seem to affect the noise. I was surprised by this as all of the oils I have used have all been 5w-30's. So far Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30 seems to be one of the quieter oils. I'm wondering if it's because Syntec Blend seems to be one of the thicker 5w-30's (11.0 cst@100C whereas most are around the 10.5cst mark.) I was thinking of trying GTX High Mileage 5w-30 next as it's even thicker (12.0 cst@100C).
Anyways, that's been my experience so far trying to quiet the machine down. YMMV.
webfors: Where can you still get the black Tokyo Roki filters?
David
2005 Impreza RS
(71000km, mostly city stop and go. Avg speed to/from work: 35km/h.)
I bought in with my local subaru club a 1.5 years ago and bought 10 at the time. I don't think you can find them anymore. Next choice Purolator and OEM. Both very good filters. I have 2 more tokyo roki's left, a couple OEM, and 4 Purolators
It'll be a while before I buy new stuff.
My '05 Impreza (EJ253) has a ticking noise that I can hear in the passenger cabin when it is fully warmed and the vent is off. It seems to be loudest near cylinder number two.
So far, oil filter choice does not seem to affect the noise. I have used the following filters on this car:
OEM black Toyko Roki
Blue Honeywell made filter
White "Subaru Canada Six-Star" honeywell filter
Purolator PL14612
Purolator PL14610 (oversized)
Purolator Classic L14460
Quaker State QS14612 (made by Purolator).
Note that this was mostly with different filter/oil combo's so take it with a big grain of salt. (I did do at least one mid-interval filter swap but I'll have to refer my service notes for specifics.)
Oil choice on the other hand does seem to affect the noise. I was surprised by this as all of the oils I have used have all been 5w-30's. So far Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30 seems to be one of the quieter oils. I'm wondering if it's because Syntec Blend seems to be one of the thicker 5w-30's (11.0 cst@100C whereas most are around the 10.5cst mark.) I was thinking of trying GTX High Mileage 5w-30 next as it's even thicker (12.0 cst@100C).
Anyways, that's been my experience so far trying to quiet the machine down. YMMV.
webfors: Where can you still get the black Tokyo Roki filters?
David
2005 Impreza RS
(71000km, mostly city stop and go. Avg speed to/from work: 35km/h.)
I bought in with my local subaru club a 1.5 years ago and bought 10 at the time. I don't think you can find them anymore. Next choice Purolator and OEM. Both very good filters. I have 2 more tokyo roki's left, a couple OEM, and 4 Purolators
Agreed that oil does make a difference with respect to sound in the H4. M1's 0w40 really quieted mine down, along with the Rotella T that I'm running now. PP 5w30 was noticeably noisier, however the UOAs with it were stellar. It'll most likely be my winter oil for the next two years.
- Status
Similar threads
