2005 Hyundai Elantra ticking ,which oil for summer

[HotelMike]

Hello everyone,
So for the past 2 oil changes car developed a ticking sound at cold start and continue till engine reaches operating temperature.Its rpm dependant.After oil change it goes away till car reaches 10k km approx.Im not sure what they used before but i put 5w-30 syn in it.(gulf and mobil 1 now)Do you think its piston slap or lifter tick or any other noise from valve train.


I heard non oem filter can cause this so i bought oem filter and now looking for oil but not sure what to buy.Should i go something like 10w-30 or 40 is needed for summer?
According to manual 5w30 only good till 10c(50f), 10w30 ok till 40c(104f) and there is even 20-50w in the chart so its weird.
1.6 liter 4 cylinder dohc engine approx 100k miles on clock, daily driven in city, summers dont exceed 35 celcius(95f) here.

 

[yvon_la]

Check oil gage . Could be made to go only one way.they dont like ethanol in gas

 

[BrocLuno]

OK, cost to much to get a bottle of Kreen over there. But I'll bet there are some equivalent products from KG (Germany) which could be had. 8 oz now and 8 oz with a new oil change. 10W-30 because of your temp range and you should be fine

Or, do one round of Motul 300V Ester and see how that goes ...

 

[Rolla07]

Use the same oil as last time and use the OEM filter and if the ticking persists you know its not oil filter related. I would suspect its linked to the oil filter and not the oil.

 

[02s4audi]

Girlfriend has a 12 Kia Forte (Hyundai motor) it's not direct injection but has a top end tick under small conditions as yours. I've found running an oem filter helped as well as quaker state ultimate durability or pennzoil platinum or ultra platinum.

 

[Torrid]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Use the same oil as last time and use the OEM filter and if the ticking persists you know its not oil filter related. I would suspect its linked to the oil filter and not the oil.


I know this is regularly said here and I'm not disputing it because I haven't had any noise related issues that routed back to the filter, but how does a filter affect top end noise? Is it a pressure issue?

 

[mcgophers]

I just put a Microgard (O'Reilly house brand, made by Wix) on my 02 Elantra and noticed some ticking and other noise that wasn't there with the OEM filter. I'll probably go back to an OEM filter next time, or at least a real Wix.

 

[HotelMike]

Thanks for the answers.Current filter is bosch so not cheapo but it may very well be not up to oem specs.
As for engine cleaners we have selection of liqui moly here like motor flush.
Yvon_la; can you explain little more im not that good with all the parts.

 

[HotelMike]

I was gonna but after seeing the manual im kinda hesitant about it.
10w30 here(castrol and mobil) are aimed towards stuff like trucks and vans i wonder if its just a marketing scheme or properities change.

 

[Rand]

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
Check oil gage . Could be made to go only one way.they dont like ethanol in gas


What? That makes no sense.

What oil gauge?
Only go one way? What?
What doesn't like ethanol in gas?
I thought we were talking about oil filter/noises

 

[bigt61]

I'd just try the OEM filter and stick with M1 if you can get it easily over there. If you can get an API SN or ILSAC GF-5 name brand 5W-30 or 10W-30 conventional, that should also be OK too. Hopefully it's just the filter.

 

[HotelMike]

10W30 is available only with mobils delvac heavy duty line , same with castrol.But i found Shell helix h7 ah 10w30 whöich is API SN and ILSAC GF-5.Some people said Hyundai recommends that and dealers use that in service cant confirm ofc.
Otherwise 10w-40 is plentyfull in semi syn blends in major brands like mobil and castrol.
But i surely wanna try 10w , maybe 5 cant build enough pressure in lifters, they drain when car sits right?It doest get that cold here, i would change it again before winter probably anyways.
Also motor flushes which you put before oil change idle for some time and rain with oil are good or just snake oil?Liqui moly have a sludge remover which you use for couple hundred km's then change the oil but its not available here sadly.

 

[SHOZ]

FWIW the engine doesn't have lifters. Cam on bucket valve train. And ticking is a Hyundai trait with the small 4 cylinders.

 

[HotelMike]

Thats why i couldnt find them in the service manual i guess

My manual is for 2.0 liter and i thought maybe they are different.

 

[SR5]

HotelMike,

So your car is running synthetic Mobil1 5W-30 with a Bosch filter and after about 10,000 km you start getting a ticking sound on cold starts, which goes away wham the car is warm. I hope I got that correct.

So a few points:
- First don't worry that your car manual says that 5W-30 is only good to low temperatures. You are using a full synthetic M1 oil, and that can handle very high temperatures. The manual is based on a lesser mineral oil.
- Try changing the oil or the filter to cure the noise, but not both at the same time. Too many variables that way.
- M1 5W-30 is an ILSAC oil, with a HTHS of 3.1, what I would call a "lighter" 5W-30
- Given that the noise develops as the oil ages, it may be that the oil is getting thin with age (shear or fuel dilution), which means the noise goes away when the oil is a little thicker.
- I would first try a thicker/heavier 5W-30 synthetic oil. Try an oil that is ACEA A3/B4 (not ILSAC GF-5). I'm thinking Castrol Edge 5W-30 A3/B4 or Shell Helix HX8 5W-30, something like that. These A3/B4 have a HTHS of about 3.5 to 3.6 in 5W-30.

See how that goes.

BTW Instanbul - very nice !!!
The Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, Topkapi Palace and the Basilica Cistern with the weeping column and the Medusa Head……such a fantastic place.

The raki is very strong, and I managed to leave the city without buying a carpet !

 

[HotelMike]

Thank you for your reply, glad you liked the Istanbul.Beatiful photos btw!You missed on those carpets though

Yes you got the situation right.Also even at operating temperature engine is more "ticky" compared to before.
Yeah definetly something is weird with oil chart in manual.

Is the difference between 5w30's are that noticable?
My current mobil 1 is Super 3000
Meets requirements :ACEA A5/B5 ; API SL ; Ford WSS-M2C913-D; Ford WSS-M2C913-C
ExxonMobil Quality Level API CF
If i cant find the heavier "5w30" i would try semi syn 10w40 or full syn 10w30.
But if i dont change the filter too it would need change in the near future am i wrong?

 

[SR5]

HM,

That A5/B5 oil is a good oil, but also on the light side. Sort of like the European version of an ILSAC oil ( but better IMO). Same with A1/B1.

It should be very easy to find a name brand semi-synthetic 10W-40 that is ACEA A3/B4 (or A3/B3) and API SN. Very popular oil here in Australia.

A full synthetic 10W-30 is a good oil too. If it's a HDEO (truck oil) just make sure it is dual rated (for petrol & diesel). It should be something like CI / SL or CJ / SN. You need to see a SL or SM or SN to make sure it suitable for your car.

When you change the oil in your car then yes use both new oil and new filter. I just suggest when trying to cure an engine tick, its common to change your oil and filter brands, but I prefer to do one at a time, so I know what helped. Still no problem to run a semi-Syn 10W-40 with a OEM filter if you want.

Yes, beautiful images, unfortunately not mine, just from the web.

Go to the shop and let me know what oils you have, I'll keep an eye on this thread.

 

[HotelMike]

I didnt knew what the A nd B 'S meant.
My options are;

Shell Helix H7 10w40 A3/B4 API SN CF (This is blend i guess thats what description says)

Castrol Magnatec 10w40 A3/B4 (Says syn tech but doest state semi syn or not, blend?)

Mobil Super x1 2000 10w40 API CF X A3/B3 X Semi synthetic

Castrol GTX 10W 40 A3/B4 Semi synthetic

Elf Sporti TX1 10W 40 API SL CF A3/B4 Semi synthetic

Stuff like Castrol edge no good i suspect as its ACEA C3 , Low viscosity almost all 5w30 's i looked had ACEA C3, C4 no A or B

10w 30's were all for diesels
Also as i said car is used in city so some days idles in traffic, would that be require extra thick oil?I heard taxis uses thicker oils.
Thanks for helping

 

[SR5]

I would try a 10W-40 semi-synthetic (synblend or synthetic technology - sort of all the same thing) from this group listed.


Originally Posted By: HotelMike


Shell Helix H7 10w40 A3/B4 API SN CF (This is blend i guess thats what description says)

Castrol Magnatec 10w40 A3/B4 (Says syn tech but doest state semi syn or not, blend?)

Mobil Super x1 2000 10w40 API CF X A3/B3 X Semi synthetic

Castrol GTX 10W 40 A3/B4 Semi synthetic

Elf Sporti TX1 10W 40 API SL CF A3/B4 Semi synthetic

My pick would be from the first two, Castrol Magnatec or Shell Helix HX7, both ACEA A3/B4 ( a good Euro oil standard that I follow). Mostly because I can get them both here and I would happily use them both myself. I hear good things about Elf, but we don't get it here.

BTW the A3/B3 is also a good standard, but A3/B4 requires a higher TBN (stuff that neutralizes the acid build up in the oil) so the A3/B4 oil can last longer.

Yes, around me, taxi's do tend to run thicker oil.

I've used a lot of 10W-40 A3/B4 semi-synthetic and I like them very much. It's good to 0F (-18 C) for cold starts, which should be fine in your city.

 

[HotelMike]

Thanks for your suggestions,actually today i was about to buy the oil but mobil 1 5w-40 catched my eye(super 3000 x1 acea a3/b4), i looked at the specs and its viscosity is higher compared to 5w-30 i was using.
How would that work i wonder.