Thoughts on Clamshell-Style Strut Spring Compressor from Harbor Freight

[GON]

Quick update.

I tried to use the Harbor Frieght MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor Set tool at $33 USD but could not get the system to work with the Acura springs. I returned the MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor Set and purchased Clamshell-Style Strut Spring Compressor from Harbor Freight for $119 USD. The clamshell-style system worked.

@Nukeman7 mentioned in this thread that Hona/ Acura springs are awkward to work with. I fully concur.

Went for a test drive after replace the left front strut and found the noise still present. I now suspect the issue is a sway bar link.... Amazon has the Moog replacement for the left side in stock for Sunday delivery, so that is good news. The right side sway bar link is out of stock. RockAuto can deliver on Tuesday, but my last day of vacation is Monday. I will replace the driver side sway bar link on Sunday, and then do the passenger front strut and sway bar link the first week of October.

Thanks for the awesome input, all very helpful.

PS- although this video is for a earlier generation RDX, I found the video very beneficial and well done. None of the BS, everything the video maker has in this video is needed and relevent to a RDX front strut replacment. Note the mechanic installed a "quick strut" and didn't need to compress a spring. Mechanic noted he didn't like aftermarket "quick struts" for the RDX, and the quick strut was customer provided.

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[D60]

The noob error I've made before checking sway bar links is doing it with the suspension unweighted, which typically places them in tension.

Best to check weighted and bang 'em around with a hammer/rubber mallet to see if you can create any noise. I realize some links are hard to reach with the wheels on, but you could jack under the LCA and remove the wheel(s)

 

[Nukeman7]

Quick update.

I tried to use the Harbor Frieght MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor Set tool at $33 USD but could not get the system to work with the Acura springs. I returned the MacPherson Strut Spring Compressor Set and purchased Clamshell-Style Strut Spring Compressor from Harbor Freight for $119 USD. The clamshell-style system worked.

Did the HF Maddox clamshell style spring compressor fit the Acura springs well or was it just sufficient to get the job done? I plan to get a new spring compressor tool and want a tool that works well with Honda and Toyota springs. I've actually been perusing Craigslist for a used Branick 7600 wall mount unit, but they are hard to come by for <$500.

Went for a test drive after replace the left front strut and found the noise still present. I now suspect the issue is a sway bar link.... Amazon has the Moog replacement for the left side in stock for Sunday delivery, so that is good news. The right side sway bar link is out of stock. RockAuto can deliver on Tuesday, but my last day of vacation is Monday. I will replace the driver side sway bar link on Sunday, and then do the passenger front strut and sway bar link the first week of October.

Be aware that the original Acura sway bar links will be difficult to remove. Honda/Acura uses interference thread studs/nuts on their OEM sway bar links which will likely bind up so tight that you will round out hex wrench cavity in the center of the stud. Be prepared to use a grinder and/or Sawzall to cut the stud. Good decision to go with the Moog replacement sway bar link. Moog (and Korean CTR) links have the wrench flats at the base of the stud which makes installation and removal a breeze.

 

[SC Maintenance]

Are the knock off's just terrible? How about the even cheaper jack actuated type?

I also am looking for something better. I have a pretty good set of the screw type I found years ago with much more stable and deep claws, but I still think days of using that type are behind me.


Like this one from HD for cheap: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SKYSHAL...C6joKBzBXsBI4CE3QkCc-IHSdyyh1E189j9SVOK3ZBa_k

Or a knock off Branick?

 

[Arc]

Do not ever use an impact on a cheap set. I learned the hard way that they will break and scare the bejesus out of you.

 

[VolvoZ]

I have owned and used the HFT Pittsburgh (predecessor to the Maddox) clamshell version of this compressor for many years now. The Maddox appears to be beefed up in several key locations vs. my old Pittsburgh.

I have been happy with it. It works well and has worked for every car in our fleet (P2 and P3 Volvos, Honda Odyssey, and many others). Estimating over 30 uses thus far. It does suffer from what others have already stated (that the hooks can be difficult to engage in just the right spots to compress the spring adequately). Despite the difficulty, somehow we have always managed to rotate the tool or spring “just right” to make it work.

 

[Audiman]

Use a chain wrapped through the centre of the spring and around something solid like a vice or if you have to bolt it to the floor. The most dangerous part of a spring coming loose from compression is the energy it launches away with. If you can tame this with a chain then it’s much safer.

 

[Arc]

Use a chain wrapped through the centre of the spring and around something solid like a vice or if you have to bolt it to the floor. The most dangerous part of a spring coming loose from compression is the energy it launches away with. If you can tame this with a chain then it’s much safer.

Very good idea.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Wow they really jacked up the price of that compressor when they changed the name to Maddox

It used to be $60 when it was called Pittsburgh.

 

[Nukeman7]

Are the knock off's just terrible? How about the even cheaper jack actuated type?

I also am looking for something better. I have a pretty good set of the screw type I found years ago with much more stable and deep claws, but I still think days of using that type are behind me.


Like this one from HD for cheap: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SKYSHAL...C6joKBzBXsBI4CE3QkCc-IHSdyyh1E189j9SVOK3ZBa_k

I have not used that style with the semi-circular plate retainers, but purchased this compressor in 2020. It is a complete waste of money as I have not gotten it to fit any Honda or Toyota spring well enough to use safely.

Or a knock off Branick?

That VEVOR unit looks interesting; however, the reviews on Amazon are less than stellar.

 

[CKN]

Its a tool one would use every 50,000 to 100,000 miles-depending. Why bother????

 

[walterjay]

Maybe Snap-On has a decent one.......

 

[jghall00]

Its a tool one would use every 50,000 to 100,000 miles-depending. Why bother????

I had four cars and two of them had over 100k. One use pays for the tool.

 

[supton]

If you drive a Toyota and have no idea about road feeling, you can easily go 200k on the original struts.

We drive 25k/yr on our cars, so, this tool would pay for itself for me. Assuming I didn't add new holes to the garage ceiling.

I have used quick struts but so far, Monroe's seem to be good for 50k... maybe... so far, not great success. But no holes in the ceiling either.

 

[CKN]

If you drive a Toyota and have no idea about road feeling, you can easily go 200k on the original struts.

We drive 25k/yr on our cars, so, this tool would pay for itself for me. Assuming I didn't add new holes to the garage ceiling.

I have used quick struts but so far, Monroe's seem to be good for 50k... maybe... so far, not great success. But no holes in the ceiling either.

As most on here know I recently traded in a 2022 Highlander XLE. The suspension is a common compliant and feels like you are riding on marshmallows . There are no significant after market solutions. The first vehicle I was actually happy to let go. It had 28,000 miles on it.

 

[Timmastertech]

Having compressed a whole lotta springs in my career you could not pay me enough money to compress a spring with a harbor freight compressor

 

[JHZR2]

Klann is the way. I have external and internal types.