Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

[jsean]

1. ‘05 Corolla that I’ve posted about here before. Bought new by in laws. Bought it from them with just over 100k miles, currently about to hit 225k miles. 5k OCIs with whatever oil and filters are on sale. ATF drain and fill every 30k miles. Ditto on the antifreeze.
2. ‘02 QX4 with the VQ35. Bought with 120k miles, sold at right around 200k miles because of rust. Same regimen as above. Didn’t lose any oil between oil changes.
3. ‘11 Pathfinder with the VQ40. Bought it with 97k miles I think, sold it with about 180k miles. Still see it around town. No oil consumption between changes.
4. Long time ago I had a ‘98 C70 with the 2.3 HPT. That was a fun car. Bought it with 216k miles (give or take) and sold it with close to 300k miles. Original engine and trans. It was burning 0.5qt/5k miles when I bought it which increased to 1qt/5k miles when I sold it. Great car that I still miss.

 

[JoeDirt41]

2015 Subaru Outback. Bought new. Currently at 160k miles. I’ve done every oil change myself, typically 5-6k mile intervals. I’ve run every single flavor of synthetic from SuperTech to Valvoline, Castol Edge, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State, and others…sometimes HM, sometimes not, but always full synthetic. All but about the last 3 or 4 oil changes have been 0W20, I’m now running 5W30. It was burning about a quart between changes, common with this engine, but switching to 5W30 has helped slow that significantly.

When I pulled the valve covers off to replace the gaskets about a year ago, the inside of the heads were spotless. No sludge, no deposits, no varnish. Just shiny, clean metal.

 

[tired]

2015 Subaru Outback. Bought new. Currently at 160k miles. I’ve done every oil change myself, typically 5-6k mile intervals. I’ve run every single flavor of synthetic from SuperTech to Valvoline, Castol Edge, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State, and others…sometimes HM, sometimes not, but always full synthetic. All but about the last 3 or 4 oil changes have been 0W20, I’m now running 5W30. It was burning about a quart between changes, common with this engine, but switching to 5W30 has helped slow that significantly.

When I pulled the valve covers off to replace the gaskets about a year ago, the inside of the heads were spotless. No sludge, no deposits, no varnish. Just shiny, clean metal.

Very well known issue and completely predictable if you don't run a boutique oil like AMSOIL or HPL or a Euro oil like Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0W-40.

Very strongly recommend switching to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. Good chance it will completely cure your oil burning in 4 OCIs.

When I pulled the valve covers off to replace the gaskets about a year ago, the inside of the heads were spotless.

Well documented phenomenon. I assure you that if you tore your engine down, the rings would be completely gummed up with carbon and stuck.

This is a good read about an oil burner and how she fixed it and maintained an engine that didn't burn oil. Her engine looked like yours but was burning 3 quarts every 5,000 miles.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Somewhere between 100,000 and 150,000 miles you might be changing spark plugs. At that point you’ll have to decide to upgrade to “double Iridium” and maybe never change the plugs again. Not many people keep their vehicle to 200,000 to 250,000 miles.

 

[Patman]

Somewhere between 100,000 and 150,000 miles you might be changing spark plugs. At that point you’ll have to decide to upgrade to “double Iridium” and maybe never change the plugs again. Not many people keep their vehicle to 200,000 to 250,000 miles.

I’m at almost 304,000 km on my original plugs in the Civic and they are still going strong. They are probably stuck in there pretty good now though

 

[Bigvman23]

1996 Ford Ranger. Bought new. Have run a top quality full synthetic in it for most, if not all it's life, and have used a top line premium filter for quite some time as well. 250,000ish miles on it. I had been running Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W20 (non high mileage) in it lately, and running a 5W20 for several years now since Ford came out with a TSB on a few years ago suggesting switching from 5W30 to 20. However, I decided to make a switch actually today after doing some research and to save a few bucks. I changed it today and went with Walmart Supertech high mileage synthetic, and went back to 5W30. I think that oil will be perfectly fine, with a high quality Purolator filter. By the way, she's never burned the first drop if oil, not that you can tell between oil changes anyway.

 

[Govtman]

Current 2019 Ram Classic 5.7 hemi 178k bought with 23k and ran mainly Fram Ultra and Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 changed out every 7500, switched to 5w-30 at 100k now using Valvoline Restore and Protect and after this round going to Valvoline Extended Protection and Carquest Professional EP P85372(MO-899 size)

Had a 2004 Chevy Colorado with 3.5L I-5 motor bought new. Loved that inline 5, it was stout and would get it quick! Wished Cummins had an inline 5 diesel in 3/4 ton for those of us that want a durable CC 4x4 hunting rig that are not pulling a 20ft gooseneck loaded down

At 15k started using Mobil 1 and longer Wix filter.
Run 5k, change filter and top off,
Run 5k change filter top off,
Run 5k complete oil change.

Sold that truck with 347K miles, with engine strong no oil use or leaks, transmission was slow to shift between 3-4. Probably because my dumb ass never serviced the transmission!
Friend bought it for $700 and drove it a year and sold it to guy that totaled it and himself.
Truck ran good but not take 90 degree bends on country 2 lane paved county road at 80mph.

 

[tired]

sold it to guy that totaled it and himself.

5w-30 at 100k now using Valvoline Restore and Protect

Good move.

At 15k started using Mobil 1 and longer Wix filter.
Run 5k, change filter and top off,
Run 5k change filter top off,
Run 5k complete oil change.

Interesting schedule. Hard to argue with results. You took Mobil 1 at their word with the mileage guarantee I take it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

2015 Subaru Outback. Bought new. Currently at 160k miles. I’ve done every oil change myself, typically 5-6k mile intervals. I’ve run every single flavor of synthetic from SuperTech to Valvoline, Castol Edge, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Quaker State, and others…sometimes HM, sometimes not, but always full synthetic. All but about the last 3 or 4 oil changes have been 0W20, I’m now running 5W30. It was burning about a quart between changes, common with this engine, but switching to 5W30 has helped slow that significantly.

When I pulled the valve covers off to replace the gaskets about a year ago, the inside of the heads were spotless. No sludge, no deposits, no varnish. Just shiny, clean metal.

Well, you got to 160,000 miles ( minus the last few changes) with 0w20. Good data point.

 

[zhaarnak02]

Just a "hair" over 300,000 on my 1989 Dakota 3.9 V6. Body is pretty good and the old girl is still hitting on all 6 cylinders and not burning oil, but I consider her done for. She is only running now because, for an experiment, I converted her to a carburetor and the ignition system to a GM HEI, due to the fact that both the original fuel injection system and pcm had finally failed. Ah, rest well old girl.

 

[gabriel9766]

13 focus 157K bought at 146k. Been using motorcraft full synthetic 0w20 and a fram ultra filter every 5K. burns or uses no oil between oil changes and i beat they crap out of it. and redlining it.

 

[Junkin55]

2002 Silverado 5.3 Bought with 132K now has 215,800. Mobil 1 and an Ac Delco or Wix filter every 3K miles.
Also have a 2004 buick lesabe bought at 200K, it needed some work and I now have 206,715 on it using as a daily driver to save gas. So far I have just used Microgard filters and Oreilly full syn in it a 3K intervals

 

[fantastic]

Made the 150,000 milestone.
2008 Volvo XC90 3.2L I6.
I've owned it for 34,000 miles (54,717 khm). All I've used is either 5w or 0w-40 European Oil.

 

[tired]

Made the 150,000 milestone.
2008 Volvo XC90 3.2L I6.
I've owned it for 34,000 miles (54,717 khm). All I've used is either 5w or 0w-40 European Oil.

View attachment 331158

Do you burn any oil? I hear some of these Volvos are oil burners.

 

[fantastic]

Do you burn any oil? I hear some of these Volvos are oil burners.

I put 8 quarts in and the low oil level sensor triggers a dash message after about 6,400 miles. At that point it still shows around 1/4 above the minimum fill line on the dipstick so I could go a bit longer but get a bit antsy to either top off or drain the oil. It's been really good for us. No issues with excessive oil burning at all.

 

[chazthespaz]

2016 Jeep Compass, 2.4L and 5M. Latest oil change at 182,000 miles. I had since new and purchased off company lease about 80,000 miles. While under company lease it received conventional oil @ 5K OCI intervals. Since purchase, I have shopped at Fleet Farm and Menards for synthetic blends and full synthetic Citgo, Pennzoil, and FVP brands; these would qualify for the $20 thread. I've seen posts warning of the danger of changing brands, but no harm apparent here. 5K OCI and regular red Purolator filters. Oil consumption has been steady about one pint between changes.

 

[chazthespaz]

PS I have a fair amount of highway miles, hence 5K OCI.

 

[chazthespaz]

Well, you got to 160,000 miles ( minus the last few changes) with 0w20. Good data point.

I also have mixed brands, watching for what is on sale at Menards or Fleet Farm.

 

[chazthespaz]

2002 Silverado 5.3 Bought with 132K now has 215,800. Mobil 1 and an Ac Delco or Wix filter every 3K miles.
Also have a 2004 buick lesabe bought at 200K, it needed some work and I now have 206,715 on it using as a daily driver to save gas. So far I have just used Microgard filters and Oreilly full syn in it a 3K intervals

Friendly question on OCI - do you do a lot of city stop and go driving?

 

[chazthespaz]

Just a "hair" over 300,000 on my 1989 Dakota 3.9 V6. Body is pretty good and the old girl is still hitting on all 6 cylinders and not burning oil, but I consider her done for. She is only running now because, for an experiment, I converted her to a carburetor and the ignition system to a GM HEI, due to the fact that both the original fuel injection system and pcm had finally failed. Ah, rest well old girl.

How did you get the GM system to play with the Dodge sensors and engine controls?