Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

I have two vehicles with over 300k miles.
2001 BMW 540 M-Sport owned basically since new. Currently at 346,00 miles. All I did was use the approved BMW LL-01 oil and an appropriate Mann, Hengst or Mahle oil filter and change it every 7500 miles.

2007 Toyota Tundra 4.7L currently around 312,000 miles. This one I have owned since around 25k miles. Oil changes every 6k to 7.5k miles. I use whatever 5w-30 synthetic is on sale...Mobil, Kirkland Signature, Quaker State, Pennzoil, STP, whatever. Filters same, Purolator, Bosch, but for the past 5 years Toyota as I found the local dealer has them cheap when purchased in quantity of four or more.

Never did anything special to get to where I am now, I follow a preventive maintenance schedule and fix stuff promptly when they break.
Just did oil changes last month and the BMW is now at 361,000 miles and the Tundra at 340,000 miles.

Even with transmission and diff fluid changes every 80k to 90k on the Tundra to coincide with timing belt changes, the torque converter gave out recently. Dealer suggested a factory rebuilt Toyota transmission would make the most sense, considering the labor to just do the torque convertor. $5500 out the door with tax seemed like a bargain so went for it. Surprised only a one year warranty, but it drives and shifts like new again.

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Just did oil changes last month and the BMW is now at 361,000 miles and the Tundra at 340,000 miles.

Even with transmission and diff fluid changes every 80k to 90k on the Tundra to coincide with timing belt changes, the torque converter gave out recently. Dealer suggested a factory rebuilt Toyota transmission would make the most sense, considering the labor to just do the torque convertor. $5500 out the door with tax seemed like a bargain so went for it. Surprised only a one year warranty, but it drives and shifts like new again.

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That 540. 🤤

More pics of that one, please.
 
162,000 on 2014 4runner. Got it with around 60k on it. Did a couple 5k changes at first with 0w20 Mobil 1. Then switched to 10k changes after that with mostly Mobil 1 products and a few Schaffers Supreme and a few Supertech synthetic. Using 5w30 full synthetic now and usually a 20k rated oil for 10k OCIs. Runs like the day we bought it and keep all fluids serviced.
 
2007 Honda Fit (currently 323k miles)
Sport A/T

Original engine and transmission
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I would post pictures, but it’s got a lot of body damage from a couple wrecks (neither my fault) it’s just I can’t afford to get it fixed. Still, it’s been reliable and I’m gonna drive it until the wheels fall off or the body rusts away. 🙂
 
A neighbor down the street bought the Fit new in 2007. He gained weight in the following year and struggled to get in & out of it. Sold it after three years. Drawing a blank as-to what he bought next. Ken died from blood cancer around 2019.

His wife's Grand Caravan is probably 10 year-old with only 20k miles. She hardly ever takes it out of the garage.
 
I recently did some work on my Chevy LS engine that hopefully will help the engine last a bit longer. I dropped the oil pan and changed the O ring between the oil pickup and the oil pump. This immediately increased the oil pressure at idle and at highway speed. If going for super long mileage on a LS engine, this procedure would help if you have evidence of low oil pressure. Any truck or car with no oil pressure gauge should probably have have one. Waiting for an oil light is a poor strategy IMHO. I’m up to 256,000 miles on my 08 Suburban I have mentioned earlier.
 
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2007 Honda Fit (currently 323k miles)
Sport A/T

Original engine and transmissionView attachment 208946View attachment 208947

I would post pictures, but it’s got a lot of body damage from a couple wrecks (neither my fault) it’s just I can’t afford to get it fixed. Still, it’s been reliable and I’m gonna drive it until the wheels fall off or the body rusts away. 🙂
This blows my mind. I had not heard any good reliability stories on the 2007 Fit. I had one, with 68k miles, full maintenance records. I drive it for a couple weeks and did not like this light knock/tap I was hearing. Brought it to the dealer I purchased it from, they said everything checks out it’s just noisy injectors. I insisted since I only had a 30 day warranty I wanted them to cover an engine inspection at the Honda dealership, which they reluctantly agreed to. Honda found cylinder 3 had a bad wrist pin and the bottom of the piston head was cracked. Complete engine failure was expected at any time, could last 10 miles or 100k miles.

Brought that info back to the dealer and demanded a full refund. They denied. Literally dialed up the local news station on my phone and dad called the better business bureau on his and before the receptionists could answer the general manager was standing there with a check for $800 more than I’d paid for the car and begged us not to go thru with the calls.

Never bought a Honda since. Shame, because my first Honda, a 1998 Civic LX with 158k, was an awesome little car that did me solid.
 
I'm guessing you only drive those Tacoma trucks when you're Clark Kent.
It seems odd that Japan went from a 3.4 to a 3.5. But Toyota does own 3 of the top10 best engines of all time.
https://carbuzz.com/features/most-reliable-engines/
171K on the ‘07 1.8 1ZZFE Corolla (5W20 M1 HM & OG Ultra) in my sig, & 198K on the company backup ‘19 Express 2500 6.0 LS (Service Pro Dexos 1 Gen. 3 5W30 & Service Pro XL filter). Not sure how the INZFE & 1ZZFE (not to mention the 22R/22RE) didn’t make the 10 best engines list?
 
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This blows my mind. I had not heard any good reliability stories on the 2007 Fit. I had one, with 68k miles, full maintenance records. I drive it for a couple weeks and did not like this light knock/tap I was hearing. Brought it to the dealer I purchased it from, they said everything checks out it’s just noisy injectors. I insisted since I only had a 30 day warranty I wanted them to cover an engine inspection at the Honda dealership, which they reluctantly agreed to. Honda found cylinder 3 had a bad wrist pin and the bottom of the piston head was cracked. Complete engine failure was expected at any time, could last 10 miles or 100k miles.

Brought that info back to the dealer and demanded a full refund. They denied. Literally dialed up the local news station on my phone and dad called the better business bureau on his and before the receptionists could answer the general manager was standing there with a check for $800 more than I’d paid for the car and begged us not to go thru with the calls.

Never bought a Honda since. Shame, because my first Honda, a 1998 Civic LX with 158k, was an awesome little car that did me solid.
Surprising. It sounds like you may have got the very very unlikely, seldom made engine with a defect.

These engines are so easy on oil. I’ve done extended OCIs ranging from 9,000 to 15k.

The only common engine related “problem” on these models are a defective ignition coil design, which was updated to a new part and works fine once you get the new part. Also, it can stall during cold idle if you haven’t performed the valve adjustment and it’s very cold outside. Do that once every 100k, no big deal.

My BIL has nearly 400k miles on his. Same car except manual transmission. Between our two vehicles 700k miles on original engine and transmissions, so far.
 
Surprising. It sounds like you may have got the very very unlikely, seldom made engine with a defect.

These engines are so easy on oil. The only common engine related “problem” on these models are a defective original ignition coil design, which was updated works fine once you get the new part. Also, it can stall during cold idle if you haven’t performed the valve adjustment and it’s very cold outside. Do that once every 100k, no big deal.

My BIL has nearly 400k miles on his. Same car except manual transmission. Between our two vehicles 700k miles on original engine and transmissions, so far.
That’s very impressive! I remember joining the forums at the time as soon as I heard the noise and I hadn’t seen a lot of love for the 2007 model year, mostly valvetrain complaints as you mention and oil burning, and a few other knock reports too. Glad to hear they turned out to be overall quite solid and mine was more of a rare lemon!
 
330,000 on 2017 Honda Accord, had first check engine light come on and off. Fuel injection 💉 was clogged on 3 of 4. Was told that I went a long way but use a bit more ethanol from now on. The o rings were beautiful but they gonna take the intake manifold off too and our hope is that using the PEA based cleaners in the intake,oil,and fuel tank have given me some wiggle room. Guess it's back to QT 89e10 😔 😟. Hopefully we get some pictures 📸 too.
 
330,000 on 2017 Honda Accord, had first check engine light come on and off. Fuel injection 💉 was clogged on 3 of 4. Was told that I went a long way but use a bit more ethanol from now on. The o rings were beautiful but they gonna take the intake manifold off too and our hope is that using the PEA based cleaners in the intake,oil,and fuel tank have given me some wiggle room. Guess it's back to QT 89e10 😔 😟. Hopefully we get some pictures 📸 too.
Head technician at dealership wants more consistent throttle and gdi cleaning, lower oci,etc. I'm just happy it happened on Sunday because I was in Westmoreland Kansas and they had a bad tornado 🌪 last night.

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