Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in
- Thread starter Patman
- Start date
Here goes it:
1986 Nissan Maxima V-6 Station Wagon. Bought new in fall of '85.
Used dino QS oil and Fram air & oil filters. OCI were 3-5K.
Engine had 317K on it when I gave it to my son in 1999.
The engine had no internal repairs. The only engine work accomplished was a timing belt (just 1 time), water pump, and fuel injectors replaced under a safety recall at 250K (no cost to me). My son didn't keep the car long and used the car on a trade-in.
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R 4 cyl. DOHC. Bought new in April 1992.
Used Mobil 1 with Fram air & oil filters. OCI were 5K.
Engine had 320K on it when I passed it on to a family friend in 2005.
Engine had no internal repairs.
The only engine related repairs amounted to a starter and alternator change. Yes, no timing belt change.
I checked on it's status and the vehicle was recently junked because the original clutch finally gave out.( I guess they don't make 'em like they use to)
1999 Ford Taurus OHV V-6. Bought new in September 1998. Still in use by me.
Use Mobil 1 with Fram air & TG oil filters. OCI's were 5K, now 7.5K
Engine has 223K on it.
Engine has had no internal repairs.
1986 Nissan Maxima V-6 Station Wagon. Bought new in fall of '85.
Used dino QS oil and Fram air & oil filters. OCI were 3-5K.
Engine had 317K on it when I gave it to my son in 1999.
The engine had no internal repairs. The only engine work accomplished was a timing belt (just 1 time), water pump, and fuel injectors replaced under a safety recall at 250K (no cost to me). My son didn't keep the car long and used the car on a trade-in.
1992 Nissan Sentra SE-R 4 cyl. DOHC. Bought new in April 1992.
Used Mobil 1 with Fram air & oil filters. OCI were 5K.
Engine had 320K on it when I passed it on to a family friend in 2005.
Engine had no internal repairs.
The only engine related repairs amounted to a starter and alternator change. Yes, no timing belt change.
I checked on it's status and the vehicle was recently junked because the original clutch finally gave out.( I guess they don't make 'em like they use to)
1999 Ford Taurus OHV V-6. Bought new in September 1998. Still in use by me.
Use Mobil 1 with Fram air & TG oil filters. OCI's were 5K, now 7.5K
Engine has 223K on it.
Engine has had no internal repairs.
95 ford Explorer with 191,251 miles as of 1-26-08
The original owner use Kendall GT-1 motor oil until they traded the vehicle in with 150,000. When I bought it,I switched it over to Mobil 1 synthetic,ran it for 2-years.Then I tried some Royal Purple, Torco racing oil and have since settled on Amsoil ASL 5w30 for the remainder of it's life
The original owner use Kendall GT-1 motor oil until they traded the vehicle in with 150,000. When I bought it,I switched it over to Mobil 1 synthetic,ran it for 2-years.Then I tried some Royal Purple, Torco racing oil and have since settled on Amsoil ASL 5w30 for the remainder of it's life
Had to wait til now to check in.
96 Toyota Tacoma, original engine, but not filters, oil, coolant, gear oil, tranny fluid, plugs, rotor/cap, wires etc.
. I'm the original, third, and fifth owner.
Now approaching 160K. Started out using Redline 5W-30 with 5K OCIs and 93 octane fuel. Obviously this was BB (before BITOG). AB and ATD (after finding BITOG and Terry Dyson), I switched to Schaeffer's (on Al's advice from another forum), kept the 5K intervals, started using O juices (Odis Beaver's Lube Control LC20, FP60) and went to regular 87. Currently on Castrol GTX 5W-30 with an excellent UOA from TD @150K. Fuel is up a bit but its probably due to the whipping I've been giving it the past 12 years. Everything else is original and NO engine work worth mentioning has been done outside routine maintenance. Still use OE air and oil filters because I can get them cheap and they work. Expect to see 250-300K easy.
96 Toyota Tacoma, original engine, but not filters, oil, coolant, gear oil, tranny fluid, plugs, rotor/cap, wires etc.
Now approaching 160K. Started out using Redline 5W-30 with 5K OCIs and 93 octane fuel. Obviously this was BB (before BITOG). AB and ATD (after finding BITOG and Terry Dyson), I switched to Schaeffer's (on Al's advice from another forum), kept the 5K intervals, started using O juices (Odis Beaver's Lube Control LC20, FP60) and went to regular 87. Currently on Castrol GTX 5W-30 with an excellent UOA from TD @150K. Fuel is up a bit but its probably due to the whipping I've been giving it the past 12 years. Everything else is original and NO engine work worth mentioning has been done outside routine maintenance. Still use OE air and oil filters because I can get them cheap and they work. Expect to see 250-300K easy.
1989 ford ranger 2.9 litre v-6 347,500. it is parked due to a head gasket leak, will be on the road in the spring. i used motorcraft 5W-20 or what ever 5W-20 they have at the quick lube play. i will report back when it has 400,000 on it. also a 1993 ford escort wagon, 1.9 litre i-4 with 325,000. i am running mobil 1 5W-30 t&s and motorcraft filters, oci's of 15,000 to 25,000. it gets most of its miles on the highway. it will one use about a quart during those long extended oil drains.
See the sig:
Engine has never been apart. Everything under the VC is shiny golden brown...not an incling of black. I'm hoping the rest of the internals are the same. No oil leaks. Compression is still well within spec as well.
Engine has never been apart. Everything under the VC is shiny golden brown...not an incling of black. I'm hoping the rest of the internals are the same. No oil leaks. Compression is still well within spec as well.
1986 Toyota pickup bought new 06/16/86. The day I brought it home, I changed the oil to Castrol 20W-50. As soon as Mobil 1 15W-50 became available, about 75,000 miles, I switched to Mobil 1 15W-50 and still use it. Engine now has almost 300,000 miles, 26-28 MPG, no engine noise, no mechanical problems of any kind. Truck is used very little now, mostly fishing and camping, and working around farm.
1999 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.2L pushrod engine. The day I brought it home I changed the oil to Mobil 1 15W-50. The engine now has 202,000 miles 28-32 MPG, no engine noise, no mechanical problems. The Cavalies is driven daily.
1999 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.2L pushrod engine. The day I brought it home I changed the oil to Mobil 1 15W-50. The engine now has 202,000 miles 28-32 MPG, no engine noise, no mechanical problems. The Cavalies is driven daily.
dnewton3
Staff member
1995 Mercury Villager (Nissan Quest). Bought new and driven by my wife since that time. 165k miles.
Oil has been everything from cheapo-house-brand oil to group III synthetics. Don't realy know that one is "better" than the other; this 3.0L SOHC Nissan engine seems to run on anything without complaining. Filters typically are Purolators or Wix, but I've fallen in love with the AAP red-grippies (alas, to be gone soon
).
Average 17mpg city/20mpg highway.
Daily driven still by my wife. A few maintenance replacements (cam belt, water pump, etc) along the way. No signs of stopping it yet. Unfortunately, Mr. Rust has come to visit; can't seem to get away from him in the long term due to mid-west salt/snow issues.
Hopefully my kids will be driving it in a few years. After all, it's only fair; they're the ones that trashed it with Mott's Juice, Cheddar-flavored Gold Fish, the unknown brands of gum, and various Skilttles!
Oil has been everything from cheapo-house-brand oil to group III synthetics. Don't realy know that one is "better" than the other; this 3.0L SOHC Nissan engine seems to run on anything without complaining. Filters typically are Purolators or Wix, but I've fallen in love with the AAP red-grippies (alas, to be gone soon
Average 17mpg city/20mpg highway.
Daily driven still by my wife. A few maintenance replacements (cam belt, water pump, etc) along the way. No signs of stopping it yet. Unfortunately, Mr. Rust has come to visit; can't seem to get away from him in the long term due to mid-west salt/snow issues.
Hopefully my kids will be driving it in a few years. After all, it's only fair; they're the ones that trashed it with Mott's Juice, Cheddar-flavored Gold Fish, the unknown brands of gum, and various Skilttles!
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
1989 Lincoln Town Car, 3rd owner. 329,000Km on it (204,000 miles) stock, untouched bottom-end, last year swapped some parts from a fresh Mustang motor that a friend of mine and I got for cheap, so it has new heads, Explorer intake, camshaft, 1.7 Rockers...etc. PO (my dad) was sort of random in his oil selection, using Mobil 1, then having his local "guy" use whatever they were using in it.
I was running Mobil 1 5w30 in it when I got it and K&N filters. Have recently switched it to 0w40 after the head swap, and have been running Purolator PureONE filters, though may switch to the Amsoil EaO filters if I can find them, since they sound like they are better from what I've read on here.
1982 Capri Black Magic, with the engine out of my '87 GT T-Top (RIP). Engine has 330,000Km on it (205,000 miles), untouched stock bottom end. Will hold 38-40lbs of oil pressure hot at idle. Top end consists of custom CI camshaft, ported GT40 irons, TFS-R intake and some other "go fast" goodies. WAS running Mobil 1 5w50 in it with a K&N filter, then switched it back to 10w30, same filter. Can now get Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for a good price locally, so will be running that whenever I finish putting the car back together.
I was running Mobil 1 5w30 in it when I got it and K&N filters. Have recently switched it to 0w40 after the head swap, and have been running Purolator PureONE filters, though may switch to the Amsoil EaO filters if I can find them, since they sound like they are better from what I've read on here.
1982 Capri Black Magic, with the engine out of my '87 GT T-Top (RIP). Engine has 330,000Km on it (205,000 miles), untouched stock bottom end. Will hold 38-40lbs of oil pressure hot at idle. Top end consists of custom CI camshaft, ported GT40 irons, TFS-R intake and some other "go fast" goodies. WAS running Mobil 1 5w50 in it with a K&N filter, then switched it back to 10w30, same filter. Can now get Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for a good price locally, so will be running that whenever I finish putting the car back together.
1996 Mercury Mystique 4 cyl Zetec 151,000 Used Amsoil 10W30 for first couple of years then when the oW30 came out used it exclusively since with K&N filters. Does not use any oil. Replaced tranny at 144,000 (used Amsoil synthetic in tranny)
1992 Toyota Camry V6, 196,000 used Amsoil 10W30 until 150,000 or so then head gasket leak, seals etc. Now using Maxlife 10W30 but still leaks a quart or so evry 1500 miles. Original transmisson using Amsoil ATF since 30,000 miles. No major work on engine, just seals
1997 Isuzu Rodeo V6, 152,000 miles, Amsoil ATF in transmission since owned it at 59,000 miles, changed every 30,000. Used Amsoil various weights in crankcase till about 125,000 then gave up, sounds loud, clacking etc. but runs great and leaks oil in multiple places so using Maxlife 10W30. This engine just beat up the Amsoil, bad UOA, etc but still runs okay. Had two RX treatments as well to no avail. No major work done on engine
1992 Toyota Camry V6, 196,000 used Amsoil 10W30 until 150,000 or so then head gasket leak, seals etc. Now using Maxlife 10W30 but still leaks a quart or so evry 1500 miles. Original transmisson using Amsoil ATF since 30,000 miles. No major work on engine, just seals
1997 Isuzu Rodeo V6, 152,000 miles, Amsoil ATF in transmission since owned it at 59,000 miles, changed every 30,000. Used Amsoil various weights in crankcase till about 125,000 then gave up, sounds loud, clacking etc. but runs great and leaks oil in multiple places so using Maxlife 10W30. This engine just beat up the Amsoil, bad UOA, etc but still runs okay. Had two RX treatments as well to no avail. No major work done on engine
Just turned 250k this past week on my 1994 Chev Impala SS. I use Castrol GTX 10w/30 in it with the correct AC Delco oil and air filter. I have had to replace the radiator 2x and the water pump 2x-both due to DexCool coolant sludge problems. 3k OCI.
95 Nissan Pickup 2WD VG30E with an estimated 200K and running great. Odometer quit working at 110,000 "quite a long time ago" according to a friend of a guy of a friend who owned the truck and from what the mechanic surmised while doing the timing belt on it. Getting about 24 mpg highway taking it easy.
1994 Lincoln Mark VIII, 158K. Used mobil 1 mostly, but now I'm trying different things, still synthetic.
Had a 1988 Town Car with 190K when I sold it, all kinds of different oil, ran like a top. Also had a 1978 Caprice that had 212K when I sold it, unknown oil usage.
My brother on the other hand recieved a 1992 Ford F-150 with a 302 from our dad when he was 16. Got it with 200K original and when he sold it at 252K, he had not changed the oil or filter once! When it started to knock, he would just add a quart of oil. Somehow that thing still ran strong when he got rid of it.
Mike
Had a 1988 Town Car with 190K when I sold it, all kinds of different oil, ran like a top. Also had a 1978 Caprice that had 212K when I sold it, unknown oil usage.
My brother on the other hand recieved a 1992 Ford F-150 with a 302 from our dad when he was 16. Got it with 200K original and when he sold it at 252K, he had not changed the oil or filter once! When it started to knock, he would just add a quart of oil. Somehow that thing still ran strong when he got rid of it.
Mike
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Certainly not overly impressive but.........93 Aerostar 3.0L 159,000 miles everything original except water pump and starter. Was fed Pennzoil yellow 5W-30 plus 5 oz VSOT, now Havoline 5W-30 (grabbed 30 Qts for under $1/qt). At the end of the OCI (500-1000 miles remaining) I add between 8-12 ounces of MMO. Still running strong. 3K OCI.
Frank D
Frank D
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Forgot to add, my Mobil 1 OCI's are 10-12,000Km.
My last car was a 99 Crown Victoria which had 170k miles before it was totaled in Hurricane Wilma.Used 5W30 Dino [Motorcraft] for the first 70K miles then 5W20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend for the rest of its life.It actually used less oil on the 5W20 Motorcraft Synthetic Blend.On the 5W30 I used to have to add a quart between changes.OCI was every 5K miles.Car ran great!
My 88 Crown Victoria had 200K miles when I sold it.I used only 10W30 Motorcraft.Car ran great! OCI was every 3K miles.Used only Dino in that one.
Hope to get 200K miles out of my 05 Crown Victoria I have now using Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic and sometimes Synthetic Blend.OCI on this one is 5K or maybe a little longer.
Long live the Crown Victoria!
My 88 Crown Victoria had 200K miles when I sold it.I used only 10W30 Motorcraft.Car ran great! OCI was every 3K miles.Used only Dino in that one.
Hope to get 200K miles out of my 05 Crown Victoria I have now using Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic and sometimes Synthetic Blend.OCI on this one is 5K or maybe a little longer.
Long live the Crown Victoria!
1992 Plymouth Voyager with almost 221,000 miles on the original 3.0L Chrysler (Mitsubishi 6G72) engine. It's been in the family since it was new in June of 1992. Leaks a bit and uses a little from the valve seals, but still has very healthy compression and shows no signs of slowing down. 2007 average MPG for this car was 19.8 MPG, and my last tank was 22.7 on combined driving. Most of the oil this car has seen is Valvoline, and it's been fed a nearly steady diet of Maxlife for at least the last 120,000 miles. There have been a couple of exceptions when I got good deals on other brands of oil, but she seems to prefer Maxlife judging by consumption. OCIs have never exceeded 5k miles and usually were more around the 4k mark. I plan to keep this car around until the rust eventually does her in, 'cause the engine will probably run forever if I let it.
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just dumped my old 1994 merury grand marquis, bought her in december of 1999 with 118,000 miles on it, drove till 236,000 miles. changed oil every 3000 to 4500 miles. napa gold or motorcraft filters only
oils used mobil dino drive clean 5w30,briefly penz dino 5w30, later on motorcraft/tropartic syn blend 5w30 or 10w30 mix.
the motorcraft/tropartic was the best of them for sure, burned less oil on it, esp later on in the OCI. the worst oil for cold start up in the winter was the penz, one time it was knocking so bad on startup when it was -15F that i thought a rod was going fly out, no more dino penz for me after that.
sorry folks but dino penz and this motor didn't mix and I will never buy dino penz again
motor had a little blowby and burned a quart every 1500 to 2000, miles never really got worse with miles
junked the car, but the motor was still strong, and very quit on a cold start up even after sitting for a few weeks outside in the cold of winter
best car I ever owned
oils used mobil dino drive clean 5w30,briefly penz dino 5w30, later on motorcraft/tropartic syn blend 5w30 or 10w30 mix.
the motorcraft/tropartic was the best of them for sure, burned less oil on it, esp later on in the OCI. the worst oil for cold start up in the winter was the penz, one time it was knocking so bad on startup when it was -15F that i thought a rod was going fly out, no more dino penz for me after that.
sorry folks but dino penz and this motor didn't mix and I will never buy dino penz again
motor had a little blowby and burned a quart every 1500 to 2000, miles never really got worse with miles
junked the car, but the motor was still strong, and very quit on a cold start up even after sitting for a few weeks outside in the cold of winter
best car I ever owned
1993 Civic, 245,000 miles
