Educate yourself. If you want some peace of mind, go to the 'used oil anlysis, gas engines' forum and do a search for 3.1 or 3100 V6, then look at some of the used oil analysis using 30 weights. I won't spoil it for you, but I don't think you will find those engines self-destructing on 30 weight. By the way, I have a Ford 3.0, an engine design that has not changed much since the 80's, that loves 5w20. Oops, I'm sorry, that's too thin, I guess my engine will explode tomorrow.
Those who use 30 weight oils...
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Your Mechanic is a moron. 10/30 is a great oil.
BTW I run redline 5/30 in my forged 4 cylinder turbo mitsubishi motor that sees 7500 rpm on the street and run RL 10/30 summer at the strip. I have also run amsoil 0/30 with no problems. I guess my motor should have gernaded by now according to your mechanic??
Your motor consuming 1/2 quart is nothing. I would continue using the same 10/30. Motor oils have come along way from the 70s LOL
BTW I run redline 5/30 in my forged 4 cylinder turbo mitsubishi motor that sees 7500 rpm on the street and run RL 10/30 summer at the strip. I have also run amsoil 0/30 with no problems. I guess my motor should have gernaded by now according to your mechanic??
Your motor consuming 1/2 quart is nothing. I would continue using the same 10/30. Motor oils have come along way from the 70s LOL
You still this crap though all the time.
Old school thinking thinking anything lower than straight 40 weight is crap oil.
They also think 0w30 is thinner than 5w30 at operating temperature.
Don't use dat dere 0w30 stuff. It turns to water.
*** if bullcrap were brains a lot of these uneducated mechanics would be einsteins.
Old school thinking thinking anything lower than straight 40 weight is crap oil.
They also think 0w30 is thinner than 5w30 at operating temperature.
Don't use dat dere 0w30 stuff. It turns to water.
*** if bullcrap were brains a lot of these uneducated mechanics would be einsteins.
My 92 Hyundai 1.6 DOHC spec'd 10W-30 winter, 10W-40 spring/summer and all the way to 20W50 during consistent summertime daytime temps above 85 degrees. I noticed no change in fuel economy no matter the grade of oil, and I changed viscosities with each change appropriate to the season. The car never consumed more than a 1/2 Qt. every 3 or 4 k OCI no matter the viscosity. Traded the car with 165K on the engine, 250K on the chassis. Internals were fine, but the rest of the car was falling apart.
My new 2005 Hyundai Accent GT (1.6 DOHC) however, specs 5W20 year-round, 5W30 if 5W20 not available. They only spec 10W30 in emergencies. There is no spec allowed for 40 or 50 weight, no matter the season, with this car. I suppose that tells us something about tight clearances and small passages on Hyundai's 1.6 DOHC? Capacity is 3.6 QT with filter.
My first change of the factory swill at 500 miles I put 5W30Dino in there, but I suppose I'll follow their spec for 5W20 in future changes since it's under warranty for 100K. I can hardly claim 5w20 is unavailable these days.
So far, I get 36.6 MPG with 5W30 dino on my first fast (65-75ish MPH) stretch to Boston outta No. Va. I'll be curious to see if there's an increase in MPG with 5W20 v. 5W30.
At the 5000-mile mark, it's OEM Hyundai filters with 5W20 Mobil 1 every 5K. I'd give anything to be allowed to run a bypass system on this thing, but they won't allow it.
My new 2005 Hyundai Accent GT (1.6 DOHC) however, specs 5W20 year-round, 5W30 if 5W20 not available. They only spec 10W30 in emergencies. There is no spec allowed for 40 or 50 weight, no matter the season, with this car. I suppose that tells us something about tight clearances and small passages on Hyundai's 1.6 DOHC? Capacity is 3.6 QT with filter.
My first change of the factory swill at 500 miles I put 5W30Dino in there, but I suppose I'll follow their spec for 5W20 in future changes since it's under warranty for 100K. I can hardly claim 5w20 is unavailable these days.
So far, I get 36.6 MPG with 5W30 dino on my first fast (65-75ish MPH) stretch to Boston outta No. Va. I'll be curious to see if there's an increase in MPG with 5W20 v. 5W30.
At the 5000-mile mark, it's OEM Hyundai filters with 5W20 Mobil 1 every 5K. I'd give anything to be allowed to run a bypass system on this thing, but they won't allow it.
1998 Monte Carlo (114k): 3100 SFI V6. 10w30 Mobil 1. Its the same motor as yours but a generation or two later. Splayed valve heads, DIS etc etc. On a 5k mile OCI it uses about 1/2 qt. Its got a leaky front main seal so that contributes to the oil loss. No problems at all. Still meets or beats EPA estimates of 21/29 mpg.
2006 Cobalt 2.2 Ecotec: 0w30 GC. Manual reccomends 5w30. Its only got 8k miles so nothing to really report except that the engine hasn't exploded.
Your "mechanic" hasn't done his homework.
2006 Cobalt 2.2 Ecotec: 0w30 GC. Manual reccomends 5w30. Its only got 8k miles so nothing to really report except that the engine hasn't exploded.
Your "mechanic" hasn't done his homework.
2004 Hyundai Elantra 17,700mi
5w-30 Havoline dino
Zero consumption
Too new of a car, though.
5w-30 Havoline dino
Zero consumption
Too new of a car, though.
2003 Dodge Durango 4x4 4.7 liter engine. 63,440 miles.
Supertech Synthetic 10w-30 with Amsoil filter.
5000 mile change intervals.
Supertech Synthetic 10w-30 with Amsoil filter.
5000 mile change intervals.
the mechanic told to use 10w40. maybe i could use it,but my engine starts to knock with it,thats why i want to use 10w30quote:
Originally posted by GoldenRod:
tonttu,
You never did say what that mechanic actually recommended for a viscosity.... I'm just curious.
The 3.1 is speced for 5W-30; or 10W-30 for severe driving conditions. Your mechanic must spend a lot of time around BMW's or something.
I would use a 10w30 or 5w30 in sweden myself.
I have a few 30 weights see list below.
89 chevy iroc 350V8/auto 5w30 havoline
93 ford F150 302V8/auto 5w30 havoline
95 ford escort 1.9L4 cylinder/stick 5w30 pennzoil at the moment
04 Kia sedona 3.5LV6/auto 5w30 pennzoil
04 kia amanti 3.5lV6/auto 5w30 havoline
67 vw bug set up for straight 30wt but under summer heat all highway it needs a 40wt
2 briggs and straton powered riding mowers that both use 30wt havlone.
I use 40wt's and above when the engines run hot like the aircooled motorcycle or the bug in summer. Now I have blown up 2 3.5's in the amanti but its engine related problem and not oil.
I have a few 30 weights see list below.
89 chevy iroc 350V8/auto 5w30 havoline
93 ford F150 302V8/auto 5w30 havoline
95 ford escort 1.9L4 cylinder/stick 5w30 pennzoil at the moment
04 Kia sedona 3.5LV6/auto 5w30 pennzoil
04 kia amanti 3.5lV6/auto 5w30 havoline
67 vw bug set up for straight 30wt but under summer heat all highway it needs a 40wt
2 briggs and straton powered riding mowers that both use 30wt havlone.
I use 40wt's and above when the engines run hot like the aircooled motorcycle or the bug in summer. Now I have blown up 2 3.5's in the amanti but its engine related problem and not oil.
GC 0w-30 96 BMW 316M 92 VW Passat and 95 Volvo 850 turbo. They all love it.
I do Not only want posts. I do like to get all the information that i can find about using 30 weights oils. I do care what you guys are telling me here,and i trust you guys too. It just that,when i go here in sweden sometimes to buy oil in my firebird,they think im an idiot,Because i buy 10w30 oil.They sometimes ask me what car is it and so on,And when i tell it is for my 92 firebird,they told me to use 10w40. And that 5w30 and 10w30 is for brand new cars ,and not to be used in older cars.
I've never owned a vehicle that didn't spec 30 weight of some type. This includes a few 6.2L diesels, a 7.4L V8, a 5.0L V8, (2) 4.2L V6's and my current 5.3L V8. All but the last have over 150K on them (except the Oldsmobile that was wrecked) and I fully expect to get 200K+ out of my current truck. Oh most of them have also been in trucks that tow, haul and plow snow.
Your mechanic is foolish. Please tell him that.
Your mechanic is foolish. Please tell him that.
There is a wealth of 30 weight use information in the OUA section.
Search for -30 in the subject line only and you will get 15 pages of OUAs using xW-30 oil in all types of engines.
Search for -30 in the subject line only and you will get 15 pages of OUAs using xW-30 oil in all types of engines.
everyone get of his mechanic. This is Europe remember 40wt is thin in most of europe. Find any old timer in the U.S. and tell him you are running your 20wt instead of 10w30 and listen to the lecture you get or even your 5w40 in your VW. I know people that swear by straight 30wt for the 1st 100k then straight 40wt.
Just yesterday I heard the old "pennzoil turns to crap after 5 minutes", now thats funny.
Just yesterday I heard the old "pennzoil turns to crap after 5 minutes", now thats funny.
1997 Nissan Maxima with 106,000 miles with oil changes every 3500-4000 miles. No oil consumption between oil changes, has always had 5w30 dino in winter and 10w30 dino in summer.
My youngest son drives a 93 Chevy Beretta with the 3.1 V6. Bought it in August 2003 with 101,000 miles. Last oil change was Feb. 02, 2006 at 144,187 miles. We have used nothing but 5w30 or 10w30 at 4000-5000 mile OCI's. Uses less than 1/2 qt, between changes, so we never top it off.
First, your mechanic is a total moron. That said...
I use TropArtic 5W30 synthetic blend in all of the following vehicles. I have also used Havoline 5W30 & TropArtic 10W30 synthetic blend in them in the past.
2001 GMC Yukon XL 5.3L V-8, 86,000 miles - runs perfect, no leaks, no problems whatsoever
2000 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor 4.6L V-8, 144,000 miles on car, 14,000 miles on engine - runs perfect, no leaks, no problems whatsoever. (Engine was replaced due to leaky valve stem seals, which were caused by years of excessive idling during police service.)
1995 Ford Crown Victoria LX 4.6L V-8, ~110,000 miles - No problems, no leaks, etc.
I use TropArtic 5W30 synthetic blend in all of the following vehicles. I have also used Havoline 5W30 & TropArtic 10W30 synthetic blend in them in the past.
2001 GMC Yukon XL 5.3L V-8, 86,000 miles - runs perfect, no leaks, no problems whatsoever
2000 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor 4.6L V-8, 144,000 miles on car, 14,000 miles on engine - runs perfect, no leaks, no problems whatsoever. (Engine was replaced due to leaky valve stem seals, which were caused by years of excessive idling during police service.)
1995 Ford Crown Victoria LX 4.6L V-8, ~110,000 miles - No problems, no leaks, etc.
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