Bb chevies always use some oil.id go back to 10w30
Thinking of switching oil in my tow vehicle
- Thread starter etex211
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Originally Posted By: etex211
Yes, it is the vortec 7400 with a hydraulic roller.
Hey Tex, when was the last tune up? O2 sensor?
Regarding the trailer, when was the last time the brakes and bearings were checked?
I had a drum hanging on my last trip to Moab, UT. I really felt it going up I70 in the Rockies.
Yes, it is the vortec 7400 with a hydraulic roller.
Hey Tex, when was the last tune up? O2 sensor?
Regarding the trailer, when was the last time the brakes and bearings were checked?
I had a drum hanging on my last trip to Moab, UT. I really felt it going up I70 in the Rockies.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: etex211
Yes, it is the vortec 7400 with a hydraulic roller.
Hey Tex, when was the last tune up? O2 sensor?
Regarding the trailer, when was the last time the brakes and bearings were checked?
I had a drum hanging on my last trip to Moab, UT. I really felt it going up I70 in the Rockies.
Plugs were changed 50-60 thousand miles ago. O2 sensors have never been changed. EGR valve was changed about a year ago. I lived with the check engine light for a number of years before finally changing the EGR.
I'm not sure, but I think this truck has 4 O2 sensors.
The trailer was bought brand new in September.
Originally Posted By: etex211
Yes, it is the vortec 7400 with a hydraulic roller.
Hey Tex, when was the last tune up? O2 sensor?
Regarding the trailer, when was the last time the brakes and bearings were checked?
I had a drum hanging on my last trip to Moab, UT. I really felt it going up I70 in the Rockies.
Plugs were changed 50-60 thousand miles ago. O2 sensors have never been changed. EGR valve was changed about a year ago. I lived with the check engine light for a number of years before finally changing the EGR.
I'm not sure, but I think this truck has 4 O2 sensors.
The trailer was bought brand new in September.
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I think the O2's would be a good investment.
Regarding the oil consumption, I believe these use low tension oil rings (Chris can you confirm?).
Some here don't believe in AutoRx, but I have had good luck with it. It may be worth a try. If the consumption goes down, switching to a syn would make more economic sense, it you wanted to go that route.
Regarding the oil consumption, I believe these use low tension oil rings (Chris can you confirm?).
Some here don't believe in AutoRx, but I have had good luck with it. It may be worth a try. If the consumption goes down, switching to a syn would make more economic sense, it you wanted to go that route.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I think the O2's would be a good investment.
What do they do as they age?
I think the O2's would be a good investment.
What do they do as they age?
Here's a good description. As an oxygen sensor ages, contaminants from normal combustion and oil ash accumulate on the sensing element. This reduces the sensor's ability to respond quickly to changes in the air/fuel mixture. The sensor slows down and becomes "sluggish".
At the same time, the sensor's output voltage may not be as high as it once was, giving the false impression that the air/fuel mixture is leaner than it actually is. The result can be a richer-than-normal air/fuel mixture under various operating conditions that causes fuel consumption and emissions to rise.
The problem may not be noticed right away because the change in performance occurs gradually. But, over time, the situation will get worse, ultimately requiring the sensor to be replaced to restore peak engine performance.
At the same time, the sensor's output voltage may not be as high as it once was, giving the false impression that the air/fuel mixture is leaner than it actually is. The result can be a richer-than-normal air/fuel mixture under various operating conditions that causes fuel consumption and emissions to rise.
The problem may not be noticed right away because the change in performance occurs gradually. But, over time, the situation will get worse, ultimately requiring the sensor to be replaced to restore peak engine performance.
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You have two oxygen sensors. If your CEL is not on, you are wasting your money changing them.
I'll say it a gain, there is little to nothing you can do to improve your MPG towing that kind of weight.
Slow down and enjoy. You should not be driving 65 MPH with that weight anyway.
I'll say it a gain, there is little to nothing you can do to improve your MPG towing that kind of weight.
Slow down and enjoy. You should not be driving 65 MPH with that weight anyway.
Hi Tex,
I believe you have 6 O2 sensors on your 454 truck. The two after the exhaust manifolds are for closed loop operation.
1) A sluggish sensor may not trip a CEL.
2) A competent shop can scope the sensors to verify performance. The check would be up to you. I know you only use your truck 2-3K miles a year.
Here is a good read on O2's in regard to a vehicle with your mileage and oil usage.
http://www.counterman.com/Article/78578/technical_forum_when_should_an_oxygen_sensor.aspx
I believe you have 6 O2 sensors on your 454 truck. The two after the exhaust manifolds are for closed loop operation.
1) A sluggish sensor may not trip a CEL.
2) A competent shop can scope the sensors to verify performance. The check would be up to you. I know you only use your truck 2-3K miles a year.
Here is a good read on O2's in regard to a vehicle with your mileage and oil usage.
http://www.counterman.com/Article/78578/technical_forum_when_should_an_oxygen_sensor.aspx
First the disclaimer that I'm not one to deviate from factory requirements / recommendations without good cause.
To answer your direct question no I don't see a "problem" with going to a synthetic 10w/30. I also like the idea of going back to the OE tire size...
I think that I would be inclined to go with something like M1 10w/30 High Mileage and try to run it 2 years, particularly if I thought that 2 5qt jugs would go 2 years...
To answer your direct question no I don't see a "problem" with going to a synthetic 10w/30. I also like the idea of going back to the OE tire size...
I think that I would be inclined to go with something like M1 10w/30 High Mileage and try to run it 2 years, particularly if I thought that 2 5qt jugs would go 2 years...
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I believe you have 6 O2 sensors on your 454 truck.
Two upstream + Two downstream = Four total
Hmm. I thought I remembered changing one in the manifold of a BB truck a few years ago. I'll have to check my book. The 4 is one after each of the manifold and then after the cats, correct?
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
I believe you have 6 O2 sensors on your 454 truck.
Two upstream + Two downstream = Four total
Hmm. I thought I remembered changing one in the manifold of a BB truck a few years ago. I'll have to check my book. The 4 is one after each of the manifold and then after the cats, correct?
I have a '92 Suburban big block - when I towed heavy trailers (12,000 lbs) I always used M1 15W-50 and towed in 3rd gear (as recommended in the OM). Big blocks like to spin so a constant 2500-3000 RPM on the highway keeps them happy. Best I could get towing was 7 MPG, but I stayed between 60-65 MPH. Now that I'm not towing anything heavy, I use M1 5W-30 or 10W-30.
RE: o2 sensors, they do get lazy but will eventually set a code when they get very bad. I would think towing that sort of a load would tend to keep the temps up and keep them in good shape... The down steam ones are just for monitoring catalyst efficiency of course...
I certainly wouldn't replace them without a code or watching them on a scan tool...
I certainly wouldn't replace them without a code or watching them on a scan tool...
Originally Posted By: etex211
I was hoping to free up the engine a bit and maybe see a gas mileage improvement. With this camper, my gas mileage is 5.5 miles per gallon. Getting it to even 6 would help.
Think about that. You're wanting a 10% increase in fuel economy overall. The contribution of the oil viscosity will not be measurable by you or I, let alone contribute significantly to your 10% goal.
Honestly, given your climate, I don't think there's anything wrong with the 15w-40 you've been using. The 20w-50 might be a little excessive, though. When using a 1974 454 truck with a camper and towing, my dad stuck to 10w-30.
The engine outlasted the body. Then again, given how 1974 GM pickup bodies held up, that's not much of an accomplishment.
I was hoping to free up the engine a bit and maybe see a gas mileage improvement. With this camper, my gas mileage is 5.5 miles per gallon. Getting it to even 6 would help.
Think about that. You're wanting a 10% increase in fuel economy overall. The contribution of the oil viscosity will not be measurable by you or I, let alone contribute significantly to your 10% goal.
Honestly, given your climate, I don't think there's anything wrong with the 15w-40 you've been using. The 20w-50 might be a little excessive, though. When using a 1974 454 truck with a camper and towing, my dad stuck to 10w-30.
The engine outlasted the body. Then again, given how 1974 GM pickup bodies held up, that's not much of an accomplishment.
etex, there is almost nothing you an do that will pay for itself. One thing--the oversized tires make fewer revolutions than the stock tire size, so you're odometer is registering fewer miles than you actually travel--that makes your miles per gallon calculation look lower than it actually is.
Because you're shopping for new tires, there are a couple of low rolling resistance tires that will be a small benefit. (Do you need new tires, or are you buying tires to save gas...if so, they probably won't pay for themselves in the gas saved, if any.) Michelin LTX M/S2 and General Grabber HTS claim to be LRR. There may be others. LRR resistance is a marketing title by the tire makers--they may save some gas, but no telling how much.
How tall is your trailer? That windage is a big consideration. The air defectors on top the cab are another gizmo that don't pay for themselves. Air Tabs are another fuel saver that likely won't pay for themselves with your low mileage. Ditto exhaust upgrades...long tube headers might help, but won't pay off. Intake changes, if they do any good, at best do half the good of exhaust changes, and won't pay off.
Your choice of engine oil won't make enough difference to buy a cup of coffee. The only things you can do that will work are to slow down and carry as little weight as possible. Don't even think of upgrading to a diesel until this truck dies. You said it well--gas costs less than truck payments. When it is time to get a different truck, do you really need the dually to tow 13,000#? If a one-ton single rear wheel truck will carry that trailer hitch weight safely, go with the single.
Because you're shopping for new tires, there are a couple of low rolling resistance tires that will be a small benefit. (Do you need new tires, or are you buying tires to save gas...if so, they probably won't pay for themselves in the gas saved, if any.) Michelin LTX M/S2 and General Grabber HTS claim to be LRR. There may be others. LRR resistance is a marketing title by the tire makers--they may save some gas, but no telling how much.
How tall is your trailer? That windage is a big consideration. The air defectors on top the cab are another gizmo that don't pay for themselves. Air Tabs are another fuel saver that likely won't pay for themselves with your low mileage. Ditto exhaust upgrades...long tube headers might help, but won't pay off. Intake changes, if they do any good, at best do half the good of exhaust changes, and won't pay off.
Your choice of engine oil won't make enough difference to buy a cup of coffee. The only things you can do that will work are to slow down and carry as little weight as possible. Don't even think of upgrading to a diesel until this truck dies. You said it well--gas costs less than truck payments. When it is time to get a different truck, do you really need the dually to tow 13,000#? If a one-ton single rear wheel truck will carry that trailer hitch weight safely, go with the single.
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
Originally Posted By: Stewart Fan
I see zero sense in switching to an expensive synthetic oil if you use 1-2 qts in 2500 miles.
Then you never towed a heavy fifth wheel in a headwind with a pickup truck.
Nope,never...lol
Originally Posted By: Stewart Fan
I see zero sense in switching to an expensive synthetic oil if you use 1-2 qts in 2500 miles.
Then you never towed a heavy fifth wheel in a headwind with a pickup truck.
Nope,never...lol
Originally Posted By: Ken2
etex, there is almost nothing you an do that will pay for itself. One thing--the oversized tires make fewer revolutions than the stock tire size, so you're odometer is registering fewer miles than you actually travel--that makes your miles per gallon calculation look lower than it actually is.
Because you're shopping for new tires, there are a couple of low rolling resistance tires that will be a small benefit. (Do you need new tires, or are you buying tires to save gas...if so, they probably won't pay for themselves in the gas saved, if any.) Michelin LTX M/S2 and General Grabber HTS claim to be LRR. There may be others. LRR resistance is a marketing title by the tire makers--they may save some gas, but no telling how much.
How tall is your trailer? That windage is a big consideration. The air defectors on top the cab are another gizmo that don't pay for themselves. Air Tabs are another fuel saver that likely won't pay for themselves with your low mileage. Ditto exhaust upgrades...long tube headers might help, but won't pay off. Intake changes, if they do any good, at best do half the good of exhaust changes, and won't pay off.
Your choice of engine oil won't make enough difference to buy a cup of coffee. The only things you can do that will work are to slow down and carry as little weight as possible. Don't even think of upgrading to a diesel until this truck dies. You said it well--gas costs less than truck payments. When it is time to get a different truck, do you really need the dually to tow 13,000#? If a one-ton single rear wheel truck will carry that trailer hitch weight safely, go with the single.
According to the speed displayed on my GPS, the speed displayed on the speedometer is actually very close to correct. I can only assume that when I return to the "correct" size tires, the speed displayed on the speedometer will actually be a little high. I've always heard that the automakers make the speedometers a little faster than the actual speed, but I am not sure why. According to the tire size calculators on various websites, the difference in speed in these two tire sizes at 65 mph is about 2.5 mph.
Because this truck sees so few miles, new tires are not a good buy. I rot them off long before I wear them out. The tires that are coming off the rear of the truck now are Continental Vanco Four Season. I am taking them off the because the tread depth is near zero. I picked them up used a couple of years ago. The tires I am putting on it are Goodyear Wrangler SR-A. I picked up the four of them a few weeks ago for a hundred bucks. I hope to get two years out of them. Finding good used 16 inch truck tires with date codes less than four years old is getting very hard to do. Four new tires for the back of this truck is $600 from tirebuyer.com. If I ever do get new ones, they will probably be Firestone Transforce HT. I've got a set of those on my half ton truck, and I love them.
The trailer is 38.5 feet long and I guess about 12 feet high. It punches a huge hole in the air. That extra wind drag is probably hurting more than the extra 4000 pounds I gained when switching to this trailer from our previous bumper pull trailer.
I talked to the local exhaust guy earlier in the week about how much would be helped by replacing the exhaust from the muffler back. This truck is a true dual exhaust system back through the cats to the muffler, then both pipes go into a huge muffler, and there is one tail pipe coming out. We decided it would be a waste of money. The muffler is huge, so any restriction there would be minimal. Headers have never even been a consideration. I don't want to get into stuff like that. After messing with headers on my race cars for years, I understand that they require constant attention, and they live very short lives.
I've decided to stick with the 15w40. I may make it synthetic if the price is right. If not, then I'll just stick with the conventional oil.
I'll play around with the slower speeds on my next trip. On a 300 mile trip, going 55 mph instead of 65 mph will add 45 minutes to the travel time. That's not a big deal. I need to learn to be a little more patient.
This truck has been very good to me. From the moment we bought it in 2000, it hauled my race car all over the states of Texas, Oklahoma, and Louisiana, until I retired from racing a couple of years ago. It's never laid down on me. The most major items I've ever had to replace on it are the water pump and the hydraboost unit. I'm getting ready to do some air conditioning work because of leaks. That's where it's nice to have my wife working at a dealership. I'll buy the parts and let her service department do the work. I don't enjoy working on cars near like I used to. That's one of the reasons I quit racing. Maybe I'm just getting old.
Thanks to everyone for the replies in this thread. I've learned a few things. I had read some wild claims on the internet about gas mileage improvement after changing to synthetic oil. I wanted to throw the question out there and see what everybody had to say.
etex, there is almost nothing you an do that will pay for itself. One thing--the oversized tires make fewer revolutions than the stock tire size, so you're odometer is registering fewer miles than you actually travel--that makes your miles per gallon calculation look lower than it actually is.
Because you're shopping for new tires, there are a couple of low rolling resistance tires that will be a small benefit. (Do you need new tires, or are you buying tires to save gas...if so, they probably won't pay for themselves in the gas saved, if any.) Michelin LTX M/S2 and General Grabber HTS claim to be LRR. There may be others. LRR resistance is a marketing title by the tire makers--they may save some gas, but no telling how much.
How tall is your trailer? That windage is a big consideration. The air defectors on top the cab are another gizmo that don't pay for themselves. Air Tabs are another fuel saver that likely won't pay for themselves with your low mileage. Ditto exhaust upgrades...long tube headers might help, but won't pay off. Intake changes, if they do any good, at best do half the good of exhaust changes, and won't pay off.
Your choice of engine oil won't make enough difference to buy a cup of coffee. The only things you can do that will work are to slow down and carry as little weight as possible. Don't even think of upgrading to a diesel until this truck dies. You said it well--gas costs less than truck payments. When it is time to get a different truck, do you really need the dually to tow 13,000#? If a one-ton single rear wheel truck will carry that trailer hitch weight safely, go with the single.
According to the speed displayed on my GPS, the speed displayed on the speedometer is actually very close to correct. I can only assume that when I return to the "correct" size tires, the speed displayed on the speedometer will actually be a little high. I've always heard that the automakers make the speedometers a little faster than the actual speed, but I am not sure why. According to the tire size calculators on various websites, the difference in speed in these two tire sizes at 65 mph is about 2.5 mph.
Because this truck sees so few miles, new tires are not a good buy. I rot them off long before I wear them out. The tires that are coming off the rear of the truck now are Continental Vanco Four Season. I am taking them off the because the tread depth is near zero. I picked them up used a couple of years ago. The tires I am putting on it are Goodyear Wrangler SR-A. I picked up the four of them a few weeks ago for a hundred bucks. I hope to get two years out of them. Finding good used 16 inch truck tires with date codes less than four years old is getting very hard to do. Four new tires for the back of this truck is $600 from tirebuyer.com. If I ever do get new ones, they will probably be Firestone Transforce HT. I've got a set of those on my half ton truck, and I love them.
The trailer is 38.5 feet long and I guess about 12 feet high. It punches a huge hole in the air. That extra wind drag is probably hurting more than the extra 4000 pounds I gained when switching to this trailer from our previous bumper pull trailer.
I talked to the local exhaust guy earlier in the week about how much would be helped by replacing the exhaust from the muffler back. This truck is a true dual exhaust system back through the cats to the muffler, then both pipes go into a huge muffler, and there is one tail pipe coming out. We decided it would be a waste of money. The muffler is huge, so any restriction there would be minimal. Headers have never even been a consideration. I don't want to get into stuff like that. After messing with headers on my race cars for years, I understand that they require constant attention, and they live very short lives.
I've decided to stick with the 15w40. I may make it synthetic if the price is right. If not, then I'll just stick with the conventional oil.
I'll play around with the slower speeds on my next trip. On a 300 mile trip, going 55 mph instead of 65 mph will add 45 minutes to the travel time. That's not a big deal. I need to learn to be a little more patient.
This truck has been very good to me. From the moment we bought it in 2000, it hauled my race car all over the states of Texas, Oklahoma, and Louisiana, until I retired from racing a couple of years ago. It's never laid down on me. The most major items I've ever had to replace on it are the water pump and the hydraboost unit. I'm getting ready to do some air conditioning work because of leaks. That's where it's nice to have my wife working at a dealership. I'll buy the parts and let her service department do the work. I don't enjoy working on cars near like I used to. That's one of the reasons I quit racing. Maybe I'm just getting old.
Thanks to everyone for the replies in this thread. I've learned a few things. I had read some wild claims on the internet about gas mileage improvement after changing to synthetic oil. I wanted to throw the question out there and see what everybody had to say.
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Full circle back to my first post. If you insist on using a HDEO, use the T6. Your cold flow properties are better and there will be the slightest of fuel economy improvement. It will also placate your feelings of wanting to switch to a synthetic. It's only a few dollars more but superior in every category than the 15W-40.
With the stock exhaust and your oil consumption, your first choice should be the M1 10W-40 HM. Thick, stout oil. You don't need an HDEO. It's better for your cats. Satisfies your want of running synthetic. Easy to find and it's relatively cheap.
With the stock exhaust and your oil consumption, your first choice should be the M1 10W-40 HM. Thick, stout oil. You don't need an HDEO. It's better for your cats. Satisfies your want of running synthetic. Easy to find and it's relatively cheap.
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