Thinking about getting an SUV

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Originally Posted By: redhat
Thank you SF0059 for the writeup. So based upon others opinions, which 4WD/AWD systems do you all like/think are decent besides conventional transfer case 4WD?

The part time ones like the CRV and RAV4 are perfectly fine for getting around. Fwd on the highway is not really a disadvantage at all as the vehicle is easier to control.
If you just want to tow a popup, look at the older V6 RAV4's. With 270hp they would drag around 2-3000lbs with ease and get decent mileage the rest of the time.
 
Originally Posted By: redhat
That can definitely add a layer of confusion. So we have part-time 4WD, then I'll refer to the others as on-demand 4WD.


Well on-demand 4wd is still different than AWD, or an on-demand AWD system.

With '4wd part time', your front and rear axles must travel at the same speed. Period. It's going to bind otherwise. If you take a 4Runner and turn it against the steering lock, put it in 4HI or 4LO, it's going to bind, hop and chirp..

That can come back to haunt you on snowy roads (as with any pickup, Jeep Wrangler). When executing a turn, all 4 wheels need to turn at a different speed.

That's where 4wd "full time", AWD ... anything with a viscous center differential, or a center differential that is not locked. You can put them on pavement, in 4WD (or if it's always on) and turn the wheel with no binding; they are able to apply different levels of power to the front and rear axle, and all 4 wheels can power their own speed.

For general snow driving, AWD and viscous full-time 4wd systems are much, much better than part time systems in the snow. If I put my Cherokee in 4HI and turn the steering wheel in snow, it's going to go straight, then turn, then might understeering again.

Now, if you're going to be going off road or driving through snow up to the headlights ... that's a different story.

I like the New Process 242 transfer case that came in some Cherokees and Grand Cherokees. Full time 4HI for snow and slippery road surfaces, then part time 4HI and 4LO for when the going got rough.

There's about a million different systems on the planet. The only ones I really understand / like are a good old chain/gear driven, part time transfer case or a Subaru system where it's built right into the transmission, has a single viscous coupling ... I don't care for the afterthought PDU systems that show up on most vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: redhat
Woah, hard for me to admit, but I'd like to step up to an SUV.

I feel somewhat bad in a way


look at what Canadians buy for the correct answer (hint its not SUV based)

#1: Ford F-Series
#2: Ram P/U
#3: Honda Civic
#4: Hyundai Elantra
#5: Dodge Grand Caravan <--- this one
 
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Our 2000 Suburban has gone 180K now, and literally nothing has gone wrong with it. Just an awesome vehicle that will go anywhere and do anything. Having said that, you can't go wrong with a 4Runner either. It comes down to how much space you want. The Suburban, I dare say, has a lot more. Enjoy either in good health!
 
The Grand Cherokee is an excellent all-weather vehicle. When the time comes, drive one after you drive the 4-Runner. Unfortunately, their reliability is real "hit and miss".

Most in your list would not appeal to me at all. The 4-Runner is way too *****. The GM twins aren't much better looking, and are way over-priced. C&D recently picked the 2015 Expedition over the 2015 Tahoe. Considering the Expy has "barely changed" since 2007, that says something.
 
Originally Posted By: crw
Our 2000 Suburban has gone 180K now, and literally nothing has gone wrong with it. Just an awesome vehicle that will go anywhere and do anything. Having said that, you can't go wrong with a 4Runner either. It comes down to how much space you want. The Suburban, I dare say, has a lot more. Enjoy either in good health!


Yeah they sure do have a lot of room, quite a bit more than a 4Runner.

I really enjoy the styling of the 4Runner. Hey we all have our own opinions.

This really is some great info I'm getting from all of you, thanks. Also, if I do decided to get something, when I'm looking, there is no way in [censored] that I will hop in a 4Runner and drive off the lot in a half hour. I fully plan on, and hold myself to the point of trying out at least a half dozen comparable vehicles.
 
Completely agree with you. All of my vehicles are automatic now.

I used to have a Jeep Cherokee with a manual transmission. While driving cross country for the first time, I got lost and then stuck in downtown Chicago traffic on a Friday night. My left leg went numb working that heavy clutch. When I had a chance to call the wife later, I told her I was done with manual transmissions and we were selling the Jeep when I got home.
 
Originally Posted By: SF0059
I certainly understand where you are coming from. I recently switched from a sedan, however, I came to a different conclusion than you and went with a CUV.

In the way of 4WD/AWD I have had a 1999 Dodge Durango, 2006 Jeep Commander, 2006 Subaru Forester, 2004 Audi A4 and a 2000 Audi A6 prior to my RAV4. The conclusion I came to after owning body on frame SUVs, a CUV and AWD sedans is that you need to look at what you want to get out of them and also how the 4WD/AWD is designed.

For body on frame, the Durango was a 2H/4H/4L setup. To be honest, it was OK in the the snow, but not amazing even in 4L. The Commander was the best in weather by far. It was AWD with optional 4H/4L lock. It could go over just about anything, but I paid the price with an average 13 mpg over its life.

The Audi Quattro systems I had were functional, but limited due to their applications in passenger cars. The Subaru was really decent in the weather, but it came at the expensive of driving a vehicle that felt like a cracker box and rode like a buckboard. Not worth the tradeoff, in my opinion.

When I started shopping for an SUV/CUV, I realized that I didn't need a truck/SUV. It was just more than I needed with the added penalty of lower MPGs and higher cost of entry. I, like you, want to be able to tow a small utility or tent trailer, but I didn't need a full size for that either.

Next up I looked at AWD cars. They had too little ground clearance, not enough tow capacity and were really only available in luxury brands, which meant too much money. Subaru was the loan exception. I drove the Outback and the Forester... didn't like either of them. I didn't like our 2006 Forester and the new models didn't change that. Add to that the dicey oil consumption issues and I wrote them off.

Finally I looked at CUVs. The key with this subset is you need to look at the quality of the AWD and programming. I really good example of poor programming/execution is the Honda CRV. Just watch the video. While some are really complex systems, some are little more than FWD+.

I finally settled on the Toyota for a multitude of reasons, but one of the main ones being the AWD system. It is "lockable" (not true 4L, but 50/50 distribution below 25mph). It is also torque vectoring so it can send power to the inside or outside wheels depending on the situation. This is a feature not even full-sized SUVs have, since they are typically much more rudimentary setups with the possible exception of Jeep.

No, I'm not saying you should get a RAV4. That is what worked for me... maybe it won't for you. What I am saying, however, is not to write off CUVs because they are "based on cars". Some are little more than an elevated sedan, but there are some that rise above that. I'll be the first to admit my RAV4 is not nearly as cool or masculine as the 4Runner I test drove, but it fits my needs. I wanted to be able to tow light loads, put a bunch of stuff inside and get through a decent snow. It does all that while returning close to 25 mpg. If I really wanted to go off-road, I would get the 4Runner. If I wanted to seriously tow, I would get a Ram. But if my goal is to get the most utility for the highest economy, the CUV provides the most benefits at the lowest price with the fewest compromises.


I agree completely with SF0059. When I read the OP, I was left with the opinion that there wasn't really a need for a body on frame SUV. A well designed AWD system on a crossover would net all the desired benefits, while maintaining a 5-10MPG improvement.

I do agree that a body on frame vehicle does seem a lot more rugged. A used 4Runner for travel and winter use in addition to the Accord might be a good combination.

The benefits that I understand, better off road capability and greater towing capability, seem lost in this application. But, if you just want a BoF truck, I also understand! I've been wanting an older Tacoma, just because... well, I just want it.



Edit, just thought of another benefit of a crossover - interior volume. I believe that Highlander, and even the Rav4 have more interior volume than the 4Runner.
 
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I want to plan for towing a popup down the road, and off of the beaten path.
 
I feel that any pop-up you tow, unless it's modified or made specifically for heavy off-road use, wouldn't be able to handle any more than a crossover would be able to handle.

Unless you mean that you want to take this new SUV on off road trails, then I think you would definitely would benefit from a body on frame vehicle.
 
The oldest vehicle I own is a '97 4Runner, with the V6, manual transmission, and rear diff locker. It runs and looks nearly as good as the day I drove it off the lot when it was new.

These days it's mostly an off-road exploration and snow day vehicle.

Other than regular preventive maintenance, the only things I've replaced, are a few bulbs, and a hydraulic hose for the clutch. About $20.00 and a half-hour of my time.

I'm a former ASE Master Tech. I worked on lots of different makes and models, so I learned what was reliable, and what wasn't. The last thing I wanted to do at the end of a day, is work on my own stuff for free, just to get around. Hence the 4Runner which has been nearly flawless for coming up on 18 years.

If you are considering a new 5th gen 4Runner with 4wd, the SR5 and Trail have Part-Time 4wd, while the Limited has Full-Time 4wd.

Here's a good website for more info: 4Runner Website
 
Originally Posted By: glock19
Originally Posted By: geeman789
In fact, when I moved from FWD to AWD with my Subaru, I had to adjust to the TAIL HAPPY nature at higher speed... the rear end WILL jump out with heavy throttle on icy / snowy roads.


Those two things don't normally go well together unless it's a rally stage.


the fishtailing will also happen when you lift a throttle in slipper condition. this is how i had accident in AWD subaru. going backwards on slippery hwy was not exactly funny.
 
Originally Posted By: glock19
This isn't necessarily true for all Subarus. Subaru has several systems but the one being put into the Forester and Outback (since we're talking about CUVs) with CVTs defaults to a 60-40 split under normal conditions and 50-50 split during slippage. That's a slight front bias, but not much.


Some people have posted graphs of torque split captured from the OBD port, and it appears to be constantly shifting power between front and rear. If I remember correctly, it varies from 60-90% FWD in normal road use, and locks at 50:50 when you turn 'X-Mode' on (which, again, only works up to 25mph). X-Mode also uses the brakes to fake an LSD, by braking any wheel that starts to spin. So far, with snow tires, the Forester has handled everything this winter has thrown at us.

The manual versions still have the purely mechanical AWD system, which I believe is 50:50 by default but can shift power somewhat in both directions.
 
OP, don't overlook the late model Dodge Durango and Chrysler Aspen twins (04-09 Durango; 07-09 Aspen). They're real body-on-frame and have a selection of very proven engines and transmissions. The engines to get, in my opinion, are either the 4.7L or 5.7L V-8 along with the 545RFE transmission. There was a 3.7L V-6/42RLE package offered as well, which I'd pass on. I've ridden in a few Durangos and they're quite fine inside: roomy, comfortable, quiet, etc. They suffer from the "Tupperware Interior, By Chrysler" common to that time period from the brand, but I don't mind hard plastics in a vehicle that's used as a family/utility vehicle. Apple juice spilled on the door card? No problem...just wipe it down with a wet wipe.

And if you don't get one with huge wheels (20"+), you could probably fit some decent all-weather/all-terrain tires and make it rather capable for what it sounds like you have in mind. A stock Durango or Aspen won't run the Rubicon Trail, but it doesn't sound like that's your intended purpose for this vehicle.

Looks like you can buy a nice example in the mid-teens.
 
Originally Posted By: glock19
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: redhat
Plus a lot of these vehicles come with a "we'll give you what we think you want when you don't want it" AWD/4WD/Part-Time/Real-Time system. Besides Subaru, they all look like they do the same thing -- try some power in the rear when the front spins.


You are clearly not well informed here.

I had AWD subaru (AT) and it was FWD until slip detected and the rears would then kick in. To have it 4WD from the get go, you would have to use 1st gear selection on the shifter.

I have RAV4 now and it works exactly the same, but you have the 4WD switch that gives you 4WD up to 25 mph.

Another difference was Subaru had hydraulically activated center diff, while RAV4 has electric coupler.


This isn't necessarily true for all Subarus. Subaru has several systems but the one being put into the Forester and Outback (since we're talking about CUVs) with CVTs defaults to a 60-40 split under normal conditions and 50-50 split during slippage. That's a slight front bias, but not much.


Well, there is a recent post on rav4wold from a guy who has both 2015 forester and 2015 rav4 and he stated that his $25000 forester has 90/10 power split, no lock button, and does poor in snow compared the the same price rav4: http://www.rav4world.com/forums/123-4-4-general/176625-impressed-rav4.html
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: glock19
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: redhat
Plus a lot of these vehicles come with a "we'll give you what we think you want when you don't want it" AWD/4WD/Part-Time/Real-Time system. Besides Subaru, they all look like they do the same thing -- try some power in the rear when the front spins.


You are clearly not well informed here.

I had AWD subaru (AT) and it was FWD until slip detected and the rears would then kick in. To have it 4WD from the get go, you would have to use 1st gear selection on the shifter.

I have RAV4 now and it works exactly the same, but you have the 4WD switch that gives you 4WD up to 25 mph.

Another difference was Subaru had hydraulically activated center diff, while RAV4 has electric coupler.


This isn't necessarily true for all Subarus. Subaru has several systems but the one being put into the Forester and Outback (since we're talking about CUVs) with CVTs defaults to a 60-40 split under normal conditions and 50-50 split during slippage. That's a slight front bias, but not much.


Well, there is a recent post on rav4wold from a guy who has both 2015 forester and 2015 rav4 and he stated that his $25000 forester has 90/10 power split, no lock button, and does poor in snow compared the the same price rav4: http://www.rav4world.com/forums/123-4-4-general/176625-impressed-rav4.html


Well there's nothing to say except, he/she is wrong. It's a 60/40 split and is well documented. Here is the link to Subaru Global saying as much: http://www.subaru-global.com/tec_awd.html

He/she quickly follows all of the statements about both cars with "I am not an expert or knowledgeable owner so my opinion might not be correct but this is how I felt and observed so far." I would say this is hardly a reputable source (definitely not more so than Subaru Global).


EDIT: I'm also not surprised you were able to find a thread of someone claiming to like a RAV4 better than a Forester... on a RAV4 forum.
 
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Thank you all for the information. Good points on here. Time for me to read, research and look at some firsthand.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Well, there is a recent post on rav4wold from a guy who has both 2015 forester and 2015 rav4 and he stated that his $25000 forester has 90/10 power split


Which, as stated, is just plain wrong.

Here's a post with actual measurements from a 2012 Outback with a similar AWD system:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-p...html#post494808

'Transfer duty rate', as I understand it, measures how locked the MTP clutch is, so a 100% reading is transferring 50% of the torque to the rear wheels.

If you look at the 0-60 test, for example, you can see it starts at 50:50 front/rear, then drops to 80:20 front/rear by the time they hit 60, and 85:15 front/rear as they take their foot off the gas and start to slow down:

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img5/5581/s11mmthroughgears.png

There's no fixed split, it's constantly adjusting.

It's also worth noting that a number of people who've disabled the AWD and turned their Forester into a FWD SUV have said that it became almost uncontrollable with all the power going to the front wheels.

Edit: another post from that thread:

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-p...html#post493345

This graph is apparently on loose dirt and rocks, with rear wheels varying between 20 and 50%.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img267/3285/r55.png
 
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