Thin to thick oil converts?

[ARCOgraphite]

Civic = pricey with no return on that initial charge, IMO.

I think my roommate paid $7400.00 in the late 80s for his. NEW.

I can get a New, leftover Nissan Murano V6 AWD for 27K out the door up here.

Like the schmo's that pay 17Gs for a Honda Fit. 17Gs for a 13G car. Insane.

Oh, I did that

 

[dblshock]

Originally Posted By: jeff78
That Civic coupe reminds me of the old CRX.



It sure does, I had a Tafeta White '91 CRX Si one of my favs

 

[aquariuscsm]

Hey dblshock have you noticed any sluggishness in your Honda with the 0W40 compared to 0W20? With 0W20 in my Honda,it's so responsive that I just barely touch the accelerator and it REALLY goes. I've never actually had to put weight on it and depress it. Smooth and silent too!!

 

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey dblshock have you noticed any sluggishness in your Honda with the 0W40 compared to 0W20? With 0W20 in my Honda,it's so responsive that I just barely touch the accelerator and it REALLY goes. I've never actually had to put weight on it and depress it. Smooth and silent too!!


You do realize 0w20 stuff is primarily for CAFE or fuel economy stuff correct?

Just because my 09' Camry says 0w20/5w20 for "optimal fuel economy" doesn't mean it's givin me best protection. Just sayin :^)

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey dblshock have you noticed any sluggishness in your Honda with the 0W40 compared to 0W20? With 0W20 in my Honda,it's so responsive that I just barely touch the accelerator and it REALLY goes. I've never actually had to put weight on it and depress it. Smooth and silent too!!


That's just one of several benefits of 0-20. I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that called for 5-30. I tried one oil change of M1 15-50. The engine was noticeably sluggish, so I drained it after one week. Also when I first tried M1 5-20 in 1978, I really noticed a much more responsive revving engine over the 10-40 Valvoline I had been using.

 

[TheKracken]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey dblshock have you noticed any sluggishness in your Honda with the 0W40 compared to 0W20? With 0W20 in my Honda,it's so responsive that I just barely touch the accelerator and it REALLY goes. I've never actually had to put weight on it and depress it. Smooth and silent too!!


That's just one of several benefits of 0-20. I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that called for 5-30. I tried one oil change of M1 15-50. The engine was noticeably sluggish, so I drained it after one week. Also when I first tried M1 5-20 in 1978, I really noticed a much more responsive revving engine over the 10-40 Valvoline I had been using.


When I put 0w20 in my Sienna I noticed how much more responsive it was as well. I might have lost a bit of power in the top end (I noticed) but I don't usually hang around there and the extra low end is very nice.

I just switched the Sienna to a heavier 5w40 and noticed the engine gets hotter (maybe a good thing?) and is much more sluggish but the top end feels a bit better.

I did the opposite with my truck and had a 0w40 in it and seemed fine and now I have 0w20 in it and I've noticed the oil pressure gauge reads quite low and only goes up to a still pretty low pressure when reved (and warm). I can't get past the low oil pressure to notice if it is more responsive or not. Going on a 2k mile trip to Texas in a few weeks and I think I will dump this 0w20 way early for a 40wt for the trip...

 

[igs]

Originally Posted By: webfors
There is no such thing as thick vs thin. There is enough viscosity for an application or there isn't. Think of it in those terms.


Thin means possibly not enough. Thick means possible more than enough. I rather be on the side of having more than not enough.

 

[2K2AcuraTL]

Originally Posted By: car51
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey dblshock have you noticed any sluggishness in your Honda with the 0W40 compared to 0W20? With 0W20 in my Honda,it's so responsive that I just barely touch the accelerator and it REALLY goes. I've never actually had to put weight on it and depress it. Smooth and silent too!!


You do realize 0w20 stuff is primarily for CAFE or fuel economy stuff correct?

Just because my 09' Camry says 0w20/5w20 for "optimal fuel economy" doesn't mean it's givin me best protection. Just sayin :^)


+1 and more ++ this echos my take on 0-5w20,
I have some 5-20 left in my oil stash.. and currently blending it with 5-30.. switching to all 5-30 eventually.
j.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: car51
You do realize 0w20 stuff is primarily for CAFE or fuel economy stuff correct?

Just because my 09' Camry says 0w20/5w20 for "optimal fuel economy" doesn't mean it's givin me best protection. Just sayin :^)


Aww come on,you know that 0W20 prevents startup wear

 

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: car51
You do realize 0w20 stuff is primarily for CAFE or fuel economy stuff correct?

Just because my 09' Camry says 0w20/5w20 for "optimal fuel economy" doesn't mean it's givin me best protection. Just sayin :^)


Aww come on,you know that 0W20 prevents startup wear

OK tig2 :^)

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: car51
OK tig2 :^)


Hey! Good idea for my new screen name

 

[aquariuscsm]

Oh,and we also have to remember that thin oil gets in all the nooks and crannies better

 

[FZ1]

Your observation re thicker oil running hotter is right. The reason it runs hotter is because there is more friction than thinner oil. More heat and friction in Texas heat is not always a good thing.

 

[Shannow]

But thinner reduces the minimum oil film thickness which isn't a good thing if load/temperature dictates.

see the advice re Ford/Chev re track use, and various other manufacturers regarding temperature and load/speed.

 

[FZ1]

I agree. I prefer to run thicker but in oem grade oil.

 

[Saxon1285]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
I agree. I prefer to run thicker but in oem grade oil.


Yep.

For the THIN fans: remember that, as the oil gets used along your OCI, viscosity goes one way: DOWN.

Shearing, fuel contamination and other degradation processes will finally turn a Xw-30, let's say, into a lower grade (Xw-20).
It's going thinner, not thicker , AFAIK.

Moreover, a 5w40, if overheating a little, may temporarely act like a 5w30 (viscosity goes down as the temperature increases). Not the other way around.
So "thicker" (within the engine producer's allowances) gives some long and short-term safety margin.

I don't have any advice to give, just underlining some facts.

Personally, with a lot of spirited driving (3500-5500 RPM), I stick with the heaviest grade allowed by the car's manual (5w40 in my case), and I'll always look for a "thick/heavy" 5w40 (higher HTHS/kV100), that still has an acceptably low CCS/MRV for easy cold-starts .

It's about finding the good compromise.

 

[FCD]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Your observation re thicker oil running hotter is right. The reason it runs hotter is because there is more friction than thinner oil. More heat and friction in Texas heat is not always a good thing.

+1 what shannow said

 

[FCD]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey dblshock have you noticed any sluggishness in your Honda with the 0W40 compared to 0W20? With 0W20 in my Honda,it's so responsive that I just barely touch the accelerator and it REALLY goes. I've never actually had to put weight on it and depress it. Smooth and silent too!!


That's just one of several benefits of 0-20. I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that called for 5-30. I tried one oil change of M1 15-50. The engine was noticeably sluggish, so I drained it after one week. Also when I first tried M1 5-20 in 1978, I really noticed a much more responsive revving engine over the 10-40 Valvoline I had been using.

So we should all run 0W-20 in every car in the world?
All you ever do is regurgitate the same line, your anecdotal evidence is not useful as people on this board have a huge array of different cars and drive in different conditions... i could say from my anecdotal evidence that running 20w50 in my cars doesn't seem to do any difference compared to thinner grades, i can say from anecdotal that my dad used to run my Capri on M1 5W-20 in the winter in Finland and that it had a lot more valvetrain noise and burned through it pretty fast.
I prefer facts to personal experiences.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: zveroboy
Originally Posted By: FZ1
I agree. I prefer to run thicker but in oem grade oil.


Yep.

For the THIN fans: remember that, as the oil gets used along your OCI, viscosity goes one way: DOWN.

Shearing, fuel contamination and other degradation processes will finally turn a Xw-30, let's say, into a lower grade (Xw-20).
It's going thinner, not thicker , AFAIK.

Moreover, a 5w40, if overheating a little, may temporarely act like a 5w30 (viscosity goes down as the temperature increases). Not the other way around.
So "thicker" (within the engine producer's allowances) gives some long and short-term safety margin.

I don't have any advice to give, just underlining some facts.

Personally, with a lot of spirited driving (3500-5500 RPM), I stick with the heaviest grade allowed by the car's manual (5w40 in my case), and I'll always look for a "thick/heavy" 5w40 (higher HTHS/kV100), that still has an acceptably low CCS/MRV for easy cold-starts .

It's about finding the good compromise.

This is not true in the slightest...the big problem when people fail to change their oil for long periods is extreme thickening, as in the funny YouTube videos with long strings of rubbery looking stuff hanging out of drain holes.
XOM even gave us a graphic for their AP product in which they admit that those oils shear down faster than competitors, but supposedly also resist extreme thickening much longer.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Hey dblshock have you noticed any sluggishness in your Honda with the 0W40 compared to 0W20? With 0W20 in my Honda,it's so responsive that I just barely touch the accelerator and it REALLY goes. I've never actually had to put weight on it and depress it. Smooth and silent too!!


That's just one of several benefits of 0-20. I had a 1990 Ford Tempo that called for 5-30. I tried one oil change of M1 15-50. The engine was noticeably sluggish, so I drained it after one week. Also when I first tried M1 5-20 in 1978, I really noticed a much more responsive revving engine over the 10-40 Valvoline I had been using.

So we should all run 0W-20 in every car in the world?
All you ever do is regurgitate the same line, your anecdotal evidence is not useful as people on this board have a huge array of different cars and drive in different conditions... i could say from my anecdotal evidence that running 20w50 in my cars doesn't seem to do any difference compared to thinner grades, i can say from anecdotal that my dad used to run my Capri on M1 5W-20 in the winter in Finland and that it had a lot more valvetrain noise and burned through it pretty fast.
I prefer facts to personal experiences.


I actually recommend using the wt called for by the engine builders as my example of trying 15-50 in my 1990 Tempo. After one week of sluggish performance I went back to the OEM oil. That's my facts. However in the late 70s I did use the M1 5-20 vs the 10-40 called for and it performed very well for me in my six cyl Dodge engine. Again, my facts. As for your Dad's experience in a Capri, If the engine was poorly maintained, then yes a thinner oil would not be best.

By the way, while in the US Navy(1966) I was deployed to Rota, Spain with Patrol Squadron 11(VP11) for three months.